I am in the process of installing a Balmar 110 Amp alternator and a Xantrex three stage voltage regulator on my Hunter 37.5. The will replace the standard Balmar 55 amp alternator with internal regulator on Yanmar 3HM35F's of that era. The voltage regulator needs a switched 12 Volt DC power source capable according to Xantrex tech support of handling up to 10 amps of current. The only available wire I've found in my engine so far is about a 16 gauge and too small to handle the current. Thus I'm faced with either using that wire to power the switch in a relay or running a totally new wire from the ignition. I'd prefer a simpler solution. Anybody got any ideas for another switched power source? Thanks for your help. Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust H37.5
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A couple of things,,,
Gary, If you look at the West Marine Advisor on wire sizing (see the related link) you will see that at 10 amps and 10% voltage drop, 16 gauge wire can be used to 40 - 50 ft length (and don't forget this is just a one-way length that you need to worry about). Even for 3% voltage drop you are good to about 25 ft. at 10 amps. 10% drop should be adequate for this purpose. The other thing is that the specs say "up to" 10 amps. I bet the normal operating current is less than that. The bottom line - I would simply go with the wiring you have. Wire it up, then if it's not working correctly put a voltmeter on it and see if the voltage is significantly less than 12 volts. I think that adding a relay is just adding more complexity and things that could go wrong. I've wired several smart regulators and always used the existing wiring - never had a problem. Good luck. It's a worthwhile project, and you'll notice a huge difference in your charging when you are all done. Derek
Gary, If you look at the West Marine Advisor on wire sizing (see the related link) you will see that at 10 amps and 10% voltage drop, 16 gauge wire can be used to 40 - 50 ft length (and don't forget this is just a one-way length that you need to worry about). Even for 3% voltage drop you are good to about 25 ft. at 10 amps. 10% drop should be adequate for this purpose. The other thing is that the specs say "up to" 10 amps. I bet the normal operating current is less than that. The bottom line - I would simply go with the wiring you have. Wire it up, then if it's not working correctly put a voltmeter on it and see if the voltage is significantly less than 12 volts. I think that adding a relay is just adding more complexity and things that could go wrong. I've wired several smart regulators and always used the existing wiring - never had a problem. Good luck. It's a worthwhile project, and you'll notice a huge difference in your charging when you are all done. Derek
Go for it Gary,
Derek said it all. Oh, just one thing, 'the original Balmar alternator'? You meant Hitachi, right?
Derek said it all. Oh, just one thing, 'the original Balmar alternator'? You meant Hitachi, right?
Thanks, Guys
Thanks, I think I'll wire it up and see what kind of drop I get. If it's too bad, there's always plan B. Yes Fred the old one is a Hitachi. I noticed the screwup but hadn't signed in when I posted the original and couldn't edit it. Must have Balmar on the brain. Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust H37.5
Thanks, I think I'll wire it up and see what kind of drop I get. If it's too bad, there's always plan B. Yes Fred the old one is a Hitachi. I noticed the screwup but hadn't signed in when I posted the original and couldn't edit it. Must have Balmar on the brain. Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust H37.5
Voltage
Gary, We used the MC612 and I do not recall that the tech did anything but hook onto the existing ignition wires. Not sure how different the Xantax is, but suspect not much regarding that issue. Dan Jonas
Gary, We used the MC612 and I do not recall that the tech did anything but hook onto the existing ignition wires. Not sure how different the Xantax is, but suspect not much regarding that issue. Dan Jonas
If you do this voltage test at the dock,
with full batteries, you will probably not see the max current draw. If you want to be certain about this setup, you will want the regulator working full out such as when you have a big load with dead batteries and some stuff turned on so that the current draw is maxed out. I would probably just opt for another wire even though it might not be needed.
with full batteries, you will probably not see the max current draw. If you want to be certain about this setup, you will want the regulator working full out such as when you have a big load with dead batteries and some stuff turned on so that the current draw is maxed out. I would probably just opt for another wire even though it might not be needed.
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