Hello, I wish to re-do my wiring,including my switch panel.When I go on-line to price parts, I see "Switch Panels","Distribution Panels",and "Circuit Breaker Panels" the price for a panel w/6 switches varies from 15.00 to 50.00.All of them are "Marine",so what is the difference in them all? I just want somthing simple for my 22 footer.I have very basic lights,gps,etc. LLOYD
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Gift
Lloyd I’m in the process of replacing the 12 volt DC lighting panel of my 1986 Hunter 23.5, I just needed more circuits. For the price of postage you can have my old one. Contact me at bnoble at sign alltel.net
Lloyd I’m in the process of replacing the 12 volt DC lighting panel of my 1986 Hunter 23.5, I just needed more circuits. For the price of postage you can have my old one. Contact me at bnoble at sign alltel.net
On that note;
anybody want my water tank? Same deal. It's the port side tank. Like new. (H34) This one's spun, nothing mechanical,,,
anybody want my water tank? Same deal. It's the port side tank. Like new. (H34) This one's spun, nothing mechanical,,,
To answer your question on panels
I have recentley completed a redo of my electrical on my H 26.5. What I found was, that for a very minimal price I could buy a switch panel with a low amperage buss, fuse holders and toggle switches. This is adequate for most low amperage, single battery systems. For an extra cost, I could buy a moderately priced switch panel, with water proof rocker switches, push-to-reset circuit breakers and a larger capacity buss bar. For an even higher cost, I could buy a DC circuit breaker panel system, with multiple buss bars, and toggle type circuit breakers. This is more apporpiate if you have switching at the helm station for lighting, but want to install circuit breaker protection at the distibution point. The reason for the buss bar is to eliminate a large group of individual hot(positive)wires from attaching at a single point to your positive battery cable or terminal. Instead, 1 larger guage wire is run to the panel from the battery or battery switch. This should be considered for the ground (negative) wires as well. Some very inexpensive panels do not have a buss at all. They simply come with factory made wire connections behind the panel. I would advise against the latter. As far as the advantage of circuit breakers over fuses, think about that old fuse panel in your grandpas house. If you are doing any rewiring or upgrading of electronics, it doesn't make sense to keep an antiquated or inadequate distribution panel. The cost of a $100.00 distibution panel might save you from a meltdown at sea. Besides, the ease of flipping a breaker to reset it compared to hunting down the correct amperage fuse on a dark night with a freighter bearing down on you and your running lights not working makes sense to me! SG on Grace - H26.5
I have recentley completed a redo of my electrical on my H 26.5. What I found was, that for a very minimal price I could buy a switch panel with a low amperage buss, fuse holders and toggle switches. This is adequate for most low amperage, single battery systems. For an extra cost, I could buy a moderately priced switch panel, with water proof rocker switches, push-to-reset circuit breakers and a larger capacity buss bar. For an even higher cost, I could buy a DC circuit breaker panel system, with multiple buss bars, and toggle type circuit breakers. This is more apporpiate if you have switching at the helm station for lighting, but want to install circuit breaker protection at the distibution point. The reason for the buss bar is to eliminate a large group of individual hot(positive)wires from attaching at a single point to your positive battery cable or terminal. Instead, 1 larger guage wire is run to the panel from the battery or battery switch. This should be considered for the ground (negative) wires as well. Some very inexpensive panels do not have a buss at all. They simply come with factory made wire connections behind the panel. I would advise against the latter. As far as the advantage of circuit breakers over fuses, think about that old fuse panel in your grandpas house. If you are doing any rewiring or upgrading of electronics, it doesn't make sense to keep an antiquated or inadequate distribution panel. The cost of a $100.00 distibution panel might save you from a meltdown at sea. Besides, the ease of flipping a breaker to reset it compared to hunting down the correct amperage fuse on a dark night with a freighter bearing down on you and your running lights not working makes sense to me! SG on Grace - H26.5
Good post Steve, but,
That freighter 'ain't a gonna move' because of your lights. Something about the law of gross tonnage.
That freighter 'ain't a gonna move' because of your lights. Something about the law of gross tonnage.
A couple of suggestions...
Hey Lloyd- If you're replacing the panel, might I suggest going with a panel from 'Blue Sea Systems', their 'waterproof circuit breaker panel' is an excellent choice for your application. Best price will probably be from 'www.boataholics. com'. As to the wiring, make sure to use marine grade, as regular wire isn't really suitable. Best deal on that is usually from 'www.bestboatwire.com'. They also have good prices on crimp terminals and heatshrink tubing. Hope this helps, Jeff
Hey Lloyd- If you're replacing the panel, might I suggest going with a panel from 'Blue Sea Systems', their 'waterproof circuit breaker panel' is an excellent choice for your application. Best price will probably be from 'www.boataholics. com'. As to the wiring, make sure to use marine grade, as regular wire isn't really suitable. Best deal on that is usually from 'www.bestboatwire.com'. They also have good prices on crimp terminals and heatshrink tubing. Hope this helps, Jeff
Me too, Steven!
I'm replacing the panel on my 26.5, also. What did you decide on? How does it fit? Who was your supplier? I appreciate the input.
I'm replacing the panel on my 26.5, also. What did you decide on? How does it fit? Who was your supplier? I appreciate the input.
Made my own panels
See the photo. I wanted two custom panels. I used 3/16" plastic (I think it was an acrylic) as the backing, printed the panel on heavy stock as white-on-black on an ink-jet printer, laminated it with non-glossy laminating plastic, and used very wide double sided tape to stick to the actual panel. I set each of the two panels in inexpensive teak picture frames (I had to mill them down slightly). The rocker switches are identical to "marine" ones but were way less expensive at an electronics parts store! (The DEKMAR logo is made from our names *5 )
See the photo. I wanted two custom panels. I used 3/16" plastic (I think it was an acrylic) as the backing, printed the panel on heavy stock as white-on-black on an ink-jet printer, laminated it with non-glossy laminating plastic, and used very wide double sided tape to stick to the actual panel. I set each of the two panels in inexpensive teak picture frames (I had to mill them down slightly). The rocker switches are identical to "marine" ones but were way less expensive at an electronics parts store! (The DEKMAR logo is made from our names *5 )
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Derek, How about putting on a class?
How did you print white on black? I've never seen white ink.
How did you print white on black? I've never seen white ink.
Awesome job Derek!
Those look great! Where did you get the plastic sheet for the base? I have been looking for a few pieces for my own projects but haven't had luck so far. - AndyS
Those look great! Where did you get the plastic sheet for the base? I have been looking for a few pieces for my own projects but haven't had luck so far. - AndyS
Fred and AndyS
Fred, I did the panel layout using Micrografx Designer, which is a technical drawing package, and set the backround black and the text white. See the attached picture. Then when I printed it, it actually printed the background. I had to try several printers before I found one that had a uniform background. BTW - don't use glossy laminating plastic - it looks awful. I really had to dig around to find the non-glossy type in a hobby/crafts store. AndyS, The plastic was scrap from my lab. We use it for vacuum forming. I'll have to check with my lab manager to find the details, but I don't think you would want to use it (if you have to buy it) because it is quite expensive.
Fred, I did the panel layout using Micrografx Designer, which is a technical drawing package, and set the backround black and the text white. See the attached picture. Then when I printed it, it actually printed the background. I had to try several printers before I found one that had a uniform background. BTW - don't use glossy laminating plastic - it looks awful. I really had to dig around to find the non-glossy type in a hobby/crafts store. AndyS, The plastic was scrap from my lab. We use it for vacuum forming. I'll have to check with my lab manager to find the details, but I don't think you would want to use it (if you have to buy it) because it is quite expensive.
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Derek, Super,
You know, all you have to do is hang out your shingle. This web site alone, will beat a path to your door. Of course, they might break it down if you lock it. Of course you would have to do it on the side. No ads here. Again, great work.
You know, all you have to do is hang out your shingle. This web site alone, will beat a path to your door. Of course, they might break it down if you lock it. Of course you would have to do it on the side. No ads here. Again, great work.
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