So in removing my switch panel from the wall to take a look at a different problem (no power to the masthead lights), the ACC2 switch back decided to break off. Is there any way to fix this, or do I need to order a new switch? Also, and maybe Phil could chime in, but what switch do I need to order if I need a new one? Attached is a picture of the front of the panel (so you can see what kind of switch we have) and the back of the panel (you can see the wires that lead out to devices and the spot where the connector broke off).
Switch Panel - Back of Switch Broken
- Thread starter nola2172
- Start date
I had assumed that might be an option - I could probably borrow all of that from our electronics lab at work (I am one of our engineers). I was just not sure how well that would really hold up since only the solder would be holding the joint.
Buy a new switch
You would have to solder the pieces face to face to have enough strength.
You will melt the plastic.
Besides, it will fail again, just when you need it!
You would have to solder the pieces face to face to have enough strength.
You will melt the plastic.
Besides, it will fail again, just when you need it!
I had actually not considered that - do they sell that sort of thing? I guess I have never looked for it there.
If not at ace, Look at Lowes or something along that line. I would not resoder as suggested as I have seen them fail over time and time again in the past.. Last resort check the store site on this forum or West Marine. Make sure you get the right one .
I don't know what all you guys experience is but mine is Electronic Engineer and Electronics Tech: solder it! If you have no soldering skills then you guys are right, it will not hold up, so buy a new one. Chief
I replaced some switches on my H260 12V distribution panel and found the matching switches here: http://www.delcity.net/store/Plastic-Toggles-!-Double-Insulated/p_789274
I disagree Chief. The first rule for a good solder joint is to have a strong mechanical joint. That is not possible with where the break occurred.
These switches are cheap and easy to acquire.
These switches are cheap and easy to acquire.
Regular Guy - Thanks for the link - those look exactly like the switches I have. If I can't find them around here, then it should be quick shipping from Wisconsin.
Also, at just a few bucks apiece, that seems like a safer option than solder. Though I am able to solder, I don't do it very often, so I am not particularly proficient. Since Chief is an EE and technician, he is likely quite proficient at soldering.
Also, at just a few bucks apiece, that seems like a safer option than solder. Though I am able to solder, I don't do it very often, so I am not particularly proficient. Since Chief is an EE and technician, he is likely quite proficient at soldering.
The broken off piece does not give you much 'flesh' for soldering. If you like to try, what can you loose, get from an auto supply store a contact piece with 90 degree angle to have a more solid base for soldering.
Buy the switch. To solder I will explain: first buff both inside bend surfaces, next flux only buffed areas,(if you flux the back sides your solder will immediately flow to the bottom of plate surface) use gun or pencil large enough to melt 60/40 solder well, apply solder inside the bend area for buildup/strength. Do use heat sink clips between solder and switch body and do not hold your heat source on too long! Switch plastic is usually Phenalic and will not melt or burn readily but can with prolonged heat.
Chief
Chief
I would suggest replacing that switch with the same thing only with screw terminals.. Friction fit connectors are quite problematic in the marine environment especially when you add length to the to get more connections...
There is an issue of sodering or to replace. I have seen attempts at best in the past with sodering that have failed and that can occur for example when a boat is pounding or for some other reason. In addition, most people do not have the good training or experience to soder a strong joint either. These switches are not the best to soder anyway and with the price of a new switch, it is easier to install a new one. As a former dealer, many dealers would not soder due to time but most importantly reliability not to mention liability should the soder fail.
I ended up ordering 2 switches from Del City (the link provided by Regular Guy) and they are supposed to arrive today. They were only $3 each, so this way I have an extra one in case I need it. At that cost, I did not see any reason to try to fix the switch.
thank you for advising. Suggest a kit of clevis pins, circular rings and cotter pins to keep on board as well. take care and again thank you for advising so quickly.
I have been building up my stock of some of those. It does help that the local sailing supply store (Torresen) is literally across the street from my marina (unfortunately, they did not have this switch), so when I need things like that I can just go grab them on the way to/from the boat.