Hello, This is the first time I have posted to this site. I purchased a 2000 240 last year. I keep it in a slip in the water through the summer season. The line connecting the rudder to the tiller (used to pull the rudder down), broke last week. I'm thinking it was because the line had deteriorated. This makes me wonder about the line used to raise and lower the keel. Should I be thinking about replacing it ? Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
swing keel
- Thread starter jdock
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Sooner or later...
Well, if the line pinning the rudder down was shot the line to your keel can't be a whole lot better off. It will need to be replaced sooner or later and it might be easier to pull a new line through if you can attach it to the end of the old line. After it fails it might be a little more difficult to fish a new line through.
Well, if the line pinning the rudder down was shot the line to your keel can't be a whole lot better off. It will need to be replaced sooner or later and it might be easier to pull a new line through if you can attach it to the end of the old line. After it fails it might be a little more difficult to fish a new line through.
I wonder if
The line on my 2000 240 appears to be a good a new. Prehaps it was pinched or chaffed by the previous owner. Another thing to consider is the rudder may have hit something and caused the line to snap or atleast severely weakened it sometime in the pase. I know I always keep mine clinched down perhaps I shouldn't. Anyway I don't think I'd worry about the keel line because it's not subject to as much abuse as the rudder line. That would be an interesting search though. I think I would prefer to do it when the boat is on dry land in the off season.
The line on my 2000 240 appears to be a good a new. Prehaps it was pinched or chaffed by the previous owner. Another thing to consider is the rudder may have hit something and caused the line to snap or atleast severely weakened it sometime in the pase. I know I always keep mine clinched down perhaps I shouldn't. Anyway I don't think I'd worry about the keel line because it's not subject to as much abuse as the rudder line. That would be an interesting search though. I think I would prefer to do it when the boat is on dry land in the off season.
Line replacement
It appears to me that the Centerboard needs to be dropped out of the boat, to be able to access the line. From the 240/260 manual, it appears that the line is never below the bottom of the hull. If anybody knows different, please post.
It appears to me that the Centerboard needs to be dropped out of the boat, to be able to access the line. From the 240/260 manual, it appears that the line is never below the bottom of the hull. If anybody knows different, please post.
RUDDER DOWNHAUL
jdock... We have a 2001 h260 and presume the rudder downhaul “system” may be similar to yours - - - poorly designed, poorly executed!!! As the line exits the top of the rudder pipe, it rubs over the burr inside the pipe leftover from having cut the pipe. We cleaned off that burr and installed a piece of anti-chaff inside the pipe. At the bottom of the rudder pipe, the line comes out of the pipe and runs over a bolt through the blade cheeks and then to the blade itself. We noticed the line chafing at the point it goes over that bolt, so we bought the largest diameter brass short nipple that would fit. We pulled the bolt out, put the nipple between the cheeks and ran the bolt back through. The nipple turns as the line is tensioned and also increases the radius over which the line runs. So far, so good. Sorry we can’t be more specific about the size or send a photo, but it’s under water for the balance of the season. Paul s/v The Lord Nelson
jdock... We have a 2001 h260 and presume the rudder downhaul “system” may be similar to yours - - - poorly designed, poorly executed!!! As the line exits the top of the rudder pipe, it rubs over the burr inside the pipe leftover from having cut the pipe. We cleaned off that burr and installed a piece of anti-chaff inside the pipe. At the bottom of the rudder pipe, the line comes out of the pipe and runs over a bolt through the blade cheeks and then to the blade itself. We noticed the line chafing at the point it goes over that bolt, so we bought the largest diameter brass short nipple that would fit. We pulled the bolt out, put the nipple between the cheeks and ran the bolt back through. The nipple turns as the line is tensioned and also increases the radius over which the line runs. So far, so good. Sorry we can’t be more specific about the size or send a photo, but it’s under water for the balance of the season. Paul s/v The Lord Nelson
Alternative
If your keel halyard should ever break, I don't think it would be disasterous situation. Two people, working a line under the boat from front to back should be able to raise the keel and secure it in the up position. At least you could get the boat on it's trailer that way. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
If your keel halyard should ever break, I don't think it would be disasterous situation. Two people, working a line under the boat from front to back should be able to raise the keel and secure it in the up position. At least you could get the boat on it's trailer that way. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
It can and it did
After an otherwise disasterous week on the lake this past June we finally got 2 1/2 days of good sailing before we went home. After a nice 3-4 hour sail we were back in the cove where I was tying my boat in the shallow "stern to" my camp site. Raising the centerboard, I braced and gave my usual horrific tug. As the board was about half way up the up-haul line parted and I went "heels over head" backward into the cockpit. Fortunately, I did not get hurt. Since I bought the boat 2 years ago the up haul has always been too hard to pull... some times I winch it up. It turns out the double braid line was chaffed through on the outer sleeve causing the inner core to slide inside the outer sleeve instead of rolling around the pully. I replaced it with a piece of single braid rope that I had on hand. I can now raise the board with one hand. The whole board has to come out to replace line. I did this in the water though I don't reccommend this. It took me about 25-30 dives under the boat to finally get the whole thing noodled back up into the trunk with my wife taking up rope slack and screwing bolt back into the bracket. Twice I dropped all the parts and had to dive looking for them. I was exhausted!!!! This job can probably be done from the trailer IF you take off the centerboard bunks before putting boat on trailer. If you replace your line before it breaks, pull a pilot line or the new line through with the old or you'll spend hours feeding a new line around deck pully and down the compression post. Good Luck! Dennis 23.5
After an otherwise disasterous week on the lake this past June we finally got 2 1/2 days of good sailing before we went home. After a nice 3-4 hour sail we were back in the cove where I was tying my boat in the shallow "stern to" my camp site. Raising the centerboard, I braced and gave my usual horrific tug. As the board was about half way up the up-haul line parted and I went "heels over head" backward into the cockpit. Fortunately, I did not get hurt. Since I bought the boat 2 years ago the up haul has always been too hard to pull... some times I winch it up. It turns out the double braid line was chaffed through on the outer sleeve causing the inner core to slide inside the outer sleeve instead of rolling around the pully. I replaced it with a piece of single braid rope that I had on hand. I can now raise the board with one hand. The whole board has to come out to replace line. I did this in the water though I don't reccommend this. It took me about 25-30 dives under the boat to finally get the whole thing noodled back up into the trunk with my wife taking up rope slack and screwing bolt back into the bracket. Twice I dropped all the parts and had to dive looking for them. I was exhausted!!!! This job can probably be done from the trailer IF you take off the centerboard bunks before putting boat on trailer. If you replace your line before it breaks, pull a pilot line or the new line through with the old or you'll spend hours feeding a new line around deck pully and down the compression post. Good Luck! Dennis 23.5
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