I attended a workshop on rigging inspection and the presenter showed us how to make a swaged fitting and a Sta Loc fitting. What impressed me was that the rigger passed around a 3/8 wire rope swage fitting he made with the hydraulic tool and cut it in half to show how the wire rope almost looks like it cold flows and becomes a solid rod. Just thought I would share because I was so impressed. Dan\
Swage Fitting
- Thread starter Dan_Y
- Start date
Lots of pressure. Now I know why those swage machines cost so much. I think I will cut one of my old ones and check it.
I own a hydraulic swager, but never cut one in half to see what it looks like after a press. Thanks for sharing.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,744
Nice stuff @Dan_Y. The fusing of the wire is what makes the hydraulic press the only recommended method for safe swage connections on critical projects. Lifelines, mast stays and other similar projects are best accomplished using hydraulic press rather than manual crimping.
That said in a pinch and you need a temporary emergency fix to get you back to port you make due.
The same idea occurs with electrical wire crimps. Using the proper crimping technique and tool will fuse the copper wire inside the crimp providing a better electrical path and a more secure connection.
Use the proper tool for the job and you will be a happier boat owner.
That said in a pinch and you need a temporary emergency fix to get you back to port you make due.
The same idea occurs with electrical wire crimps. Using the proper crimping technique and tool will fuse the copper wire inside the crimp providing a better electrical path and a more secure connection.
Use the proper tool for the job and you will be a happier boat owner.
If using swage fittings, here's something to keep in mind.
There is a big difference between 304 & 316 stainless steel.
304 stainless can & will show some rust over time around a swage fitting.
304 has more carbon in the mix is more pervious to rust & weakening.
All of my shrouds are only 316 stainless.
I have no failure problems after changing over to 316 SS.
Yea, it cost more but hey, it's your boat. If 304 fails, it's too late.
I have also changed from swage to mechanical fittings.
I sleep better at night now.
There is a big difference between 304 & 316 stainless steel.
304 stainless can & will show some rust over time around a swage fitting.
304 has more carbon in the mix is more pervious to rust & weakening.
All of my shrouds are only 316 stainless.
I have no failure problems after changing over to 316 SS.
Yea, it cost more but hey, it's your boat. If 304 fails, it's too late.
I have also changed from swage to mechanical fittings.
I sleep better at night now.
The rigger recommend sta locs at the top of the forestay so you could thread the wire rope up through a roller furler's foil then install the sta lok on site. I was impresses by how much the swage fitting lengthened when pressed. You have to know those characteristics when cutting the wire rope so you have the proper length in the turnbuckles. He mentioned they put a blob of Life Caulk in the fittings before pressing or tightening them to help keep water out. Anyway, I have a much greater appreciation for the skills and tools required.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,744
Dan When I re-rigged, I put swage fittings at the mast head. Problem with swage fittings is water intrusion into the fitting and then rust corrosion leading to failure of the fitting. If the fitting is on the mast head and gravity functions as promised, No water should get in to the fitting. Therefore no rust/corrosion, Happy Sailor.
I installed HiMod mechanical fittings on the bottom where I can inspect the fitting and make alterations should it become necessary.
I installed HiMod mechanical fittings on the bottom where I can inspect the fitting and make alterations should it become necessary.
