Am considering buying a Suzuki 2.5 4-stroke outboard for my 8.5 ft zodiac dinghy. any pros or cons
Suzuki Outboard Motor
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My nephew purchased one, but have not heard about its performance. He laid it on its side to transport to the marina and when he went to start it the engine was locked and would not turn. It took a few moments to realize that it probably had a hydraulic lock, so we removed the spark plug and cranked until the raw fuel was pushed out and then it started right up. I liked the fact that for a 4 stroke it was a very light engine and seemed to push the 9'8" inflatable very well.
So far I like mine.
I have one since July, but I've only used it twice. Once in Longport NJ, and once in Marthas Vineyard. When it was new, I broke it in partway in a trash can. You have to lay it on the correct side for transport. I am paying close attention to the oil site glass. So far OK. I did notice that it was difficult to pull start one time after transport, not a problem just an observation. It had a pretty strong compression feel when pull starting, but it always starts and runs great. It's early yet but I don't regret buying it. Love the light weight, and it stores great in my little lazarette. Oh yeah, the fuel cap (or possibly tank) is weak so don't crank on it or you will strip it. If you close it gently it will seal fine for travel.
I have one since July, but I've only used it twice. Once in Longport NJ, and once in Marthas Vineyard. When it was new, I broke it in partway in a trash can. You have to lay it on the correct side for transport. I am paying close attention to the oil site glass. So far OK. I did notice that it was difficult to pull start one time after transport, not a problem just an observation. It had a pretty strong compression feel when pull starting, but it always starts and runs great. It's early yet but I don't regret buying it. Love the light weight, and it stores great in my little lazarette. Oh yeah, the fuel cap (or possibly tank) is weak so don't crank on it or you will strip it. If you close it gently it will seal fine for travel.
For Whatever it's worth dept.
I have a little 2 stroke, 2HP suzie. A 1990 model. Use it regularly on the dink. It has been proven to prove totally bullet proof. Change the impeller every couple of years. It is a two or three pull starter after sitting up for a while. Always cranks first pull once started the first time. Love it, and would buy another one in a heartbeat.
I have a little 2 stroke, 2HP suzie. A 1990 model. Use it regularly on the dink. It has been proven to prove totally bullet proof. Change the impeller every couple of years. It is a two or three pull starter after sitting up for a while. Always cranks first pull once started the first time. Love it, and would buy another one in a heartbeat.
I'd point out that the engines below 4 HP are considerably lighter than those 4 HP and larger. For instance, the Tohatsu 3.5 HP four-stroke is only about 40 lbs. The 4 HP Tohatsu four-stroke is about 70 lbs. It is really easy to get an engine that is too large and heavy to use regularly. If the weakest/smallest member of the crew can't put the dinghy motor on the dinghy easily, you're going to have a problem. I'd also point out that my 3.5 HP was able to move a 10.5' RIB with three people aboard in 20 knots of wind with no problem.
I personally would never by a Suzuki after what my brother is going through. Bought it because of the price point and longer warranty than Yamaha. This was a 90Hp for his Carolina skiff, so it's a bit different. Anyway, the engine started "making oil" (i.e. gas in the oil), Suzuki balked on the warranty, the dealer balked saying it was Suzuki's problem, so he gets screwed. Personally it seems like this is the new business model out there for everyone. That's just me though.
from Iboats
I get a few customers each year with high oil levels in their 4-stroke outboards and it's really tough to explain why sometimes. So I prepared this to present to customers with the problem and I thought it would make a good FAQ.
Q: Why does my 4-stroke outboard oil level keep rising? I never add any. Shouldn't it be going down?
A: This is referred to as "Making oil". Here it is in a nutshell. Water vapor enters the crankcase of all motors from the atmosphere, and as a by-product of combustion. In other motors, the oil gets rather hot and any water vapor that may condense will steam-off and exit the crankcase breather. 4-stroke outboard motor oil doesn't get nearly as hot, so the water just keeps on collecting.
Q: Is it always water?
A: No. Tiny amounts of raw fuel also leak into the crankcase on the compression stroke, potentially diluting the oil and raising the level on a cool-running motor. Or there could be a fuel system leak. Typically the odor of the latter situation is fairly obvious, but not necessarily. Lack of a gassy smell shouldn't preclude checking the possibility of fuel system leaks. Over choking and frequent flooding will also cause fuel to get into the oil.
Q: Where does the water come from?
A: Three sources. Asmosphere, combustion and fuel. There's always moisture in the air, especially near bodies of water. Some condenses out naturally and collects in the crankcase of a sitting motor. Some comes in right along with the air as it runs. The body of water you're operating on produces a lot of atmospheric water vapor, especially a few feet above the water line ... where the powerhead is. H20 is one of the compounds that forms when gasoline is burned, along with CO, CO2, NOX, etc. Some leaks into the crankcase right along with the other contaminants and mixes into the oil. Alcohol combustion makes mostly CO2 and H2O, so alcohol-blended fuels tend to produce more water vapor than straight gasoline.
Q: Wouldn't my oil turn milky if water was in there?
A: Eventually it will. But oil has some capacity to retain water and it eventually reaches a threshold where it starts to cloud.
Q: Why doesn't the oil get hot enough to steam it off?
A: It can. If the motor is running hard enough to plane the boat, water that otherwise cools the oil isn't splashing on the sump that holds the oil. But boats that are run at non-planing speeds may not heat the oil up very much at all. The water the boat is running in cools the oil which is in the sump beneath the powerhead. That water can keep the oil pretty cool just by splashing against the outside of the aluminum sump.Motors that are mostly operated at sub-planing speeds seem to be especially susceptible to making oil. Many times the complaint is that a kicker used for trolling has the problem, but the main motor doesn't. That's because the main motor is used to get to the fishing spot fast to troll slow with the kicker. One is hot, the other is not.
Q: Why is it a problem with my motor and not my neighbor's?
A: Two things really aggrivate the problem. Cool running temperature of the oil, and the abundance of moisture available that inevitably collects. The environment the boat is kept in, water temperature, the fuel you use, and the way you operate the motor have huge effects on whether or not this is going to be a problem.
Q: Wouldn't a hotter thermostat solve the problem?
A: Doesn't help much, but it helps. Problem is that you're regulating coolant temperature and not oil temperature. The oil will get a little warmer as a result, but the powerhead will be running hotter and that's probably not good. Then consider that if the sump is getting splashed by water, that pretty much cancels it out.
Q: How can I be sure of what is making the oil?
A: You can have the oil analyzed. There are many labs that test automotive oil. Outboard readings may not be consistent with what would be expected from an automobile engine, so interpreting the data could be problematic. But it sure will show what is in the oil. A quick search yielded a lot of labs offering this service through the mail for a wide range of prices. Shop around, but it could be money well invested. One site with abundant information is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ They also have a Forum if you have any questions.
Q: So what can I do about it?
A: Right now, the approach is to minimize the amount of contamination allowed to enter. That means keeping the motor as unexposed to atmospheric moisture as possible. Practical in some situations, impossible in others. The manufacturers are also stressing proper and agressive break-in procedures to mate surfaces better and keep leakage into the crankcase (blow-by) to a minimum. Avoid alcohol-blended fuels if you can. Finally, allow the motor to get hot enough to steam-off what water will inevitably collect in there. That'll probably mean running it hard for awhile. (If your lake has a speed limit ... Ouch!)If all of that fails, have the motor checked for gasket leakage. It could be coming from the cooling system. More frequent oil & filter changes may be necessary. But try running the motor hard for several minutes every time you go out. That's the easiest, cheapest, and most enjoyable thing to try.
Q: So you mean I HAVE to open it up and go fast once in awhile?
A: Dang shame, ain't it?
Thanks to Bill, Bo, DJ, Gary, Jim, LubeDude, Ray, Robby, Rockhopper, TheOilDoc, and of course JB for their encouragement and invaluable assistance in preparing this FAQ
Ok on EFI motors its a bigger issue when if don't have the correct prop the EFI dumps in fuel trying to reach and RPM it cant IF the prop is to big
These motors need to be able to reach 6000 RPM with there CURRENT load
I get a few customers each year with high oil levels in their 4-stroke outboards and it's really tough to explain why sometimes. So I prepared this to present to customers with the problem and I thought it would make a good FAQ.
Q: Why does my 4-stroke outboard oil level keep rising? I never add any. Shouldn't it be going down?
A: This is referred to as "Making oil". Here it is in a nutshell. Water vapor enters the crankcase of all motors from the atmosphere, and as a by-product of combustion. In other motors, the oil gets rather hot and any water vapor that may condense will steam-off and exit the crankcase breather. 4-stroke outboard motor oil doesn't get nearly as hot, so the water just keeps on collecting.
Q: Is it always water?
A: No. Tiny amounts of raw fuel also leak into the crankcase on the compression stroke, potentially diluting the oil and raising the level on a cool-running motor. Or there could be a fuel system leak. Typically the odor of the latter situation is fairly obvious, but not necessarily. Lack of a gassy smell shouldn't preclude checking the possibility of fuel system leaks. Over choking and frequent flooding will also cause fuel to get into the oil.
Q: Where does the water come from?
A: Three sources. Asmosphere, combustion and fuel. There's always moisture in the air, especially near bodies of water. Some condenses out naturally and collects in the crankcase of a sitting motor. Some comes in right along with the air as it runs. The body of water you're operating on produces a lot of atmospheric water vapor, especially a few feet above the water line ... where the powerhead is. H20 is one of the compounds that forms when gasoline is burned, along with CO, CO2, NOX, etc. Some leaks into the crankcase right along with the other contaminants and mixes into the oil. Alcohol combustion makes mostly CO2 and H2O, so alcohol-blended fuels tend to produce more water vapor than straight gasoline.
Q: Wouldn't my oil turn milky if water was in there?
A: Eventually it will. But oil has some capacity to retain water and it eventually reaches a threshold where it starts to cloud.
Q: Why doesn't the oil get hot enough to steam it off?
A: It can. If the motor is running hard enough to plane the boat, water that otherwise cools the oil isn't splashing on the sump that holds the oil. But boats that are run at non-planing speeds may not heat the oil up very much at all. The water the boat is running in cools the oil which is in the sump beneath the powerhead. That water can keep the oil pretty cool just by splashing against the outside of the aluminum sump.Motors that are mostly operated at sub-planing speeds seem to be especially susceptible to making oil. Many times the complaint is that a kicker used for trolling has the problem, but the main motor doesn't. That's because the main motor is used to get to the fishing spot fast to troll slow with the kicker. One is hot, the other is not.
Q: Why is it a problem with my motor and not my neighbor's?
A: Two things really aggrivate the problem. Cool running temperature of the oil, and the abundance of moisture available that inevitably collects. The environment the boat is kept in, water temperature, the fuel you use, and the way you operate the motor have huge effects on whether or not this is going to be a problem.
Q: Wouldn't a hotter thermostat solve the problem?
A: Doesn't help much, but it helps. Problem is that you're regulating coolant temperature and not oil temperature. The oil will get a little warmer as a result, but the powerhead will be running hotter and that's probably not good. Then consider that if the sump is getting splashed by water, that pretty much cancels it out.
Q: How can I be sure of what is making the oil?
A: You can have the oil analyzed. There are many labs that test automotive oil. Outboard readings may not be consistent with what would be expected from an automobile engine, so interpreting the data could be problematic. But it sure will show what is in the oil. A quick search yielded a lot of labs offering this service through the mail for a wide range of prices. Shop around, but it could be money well invested. One site with abundant information is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ They also have a Forum if you have any questions.
Q: So what can I do about it?
A: Right now, the approach is to minimize the amount of contamination allowed to enter. That means keeping the motor as unexposed to atmospheric moisture as possible. Practical in some situations, impossible in others. The manufacturers are also stressing proper and agressive break-in procedures to mate surfaces better and keep leakage into the crankcase (blow-by) to a minimum. Avoid alcohol-blended fuels if you can. Finally, allow the motor to get hot enough to steam-off what water will inevitably collect in there. That'll probably mean running it hard for awhile. (If your lake has a speed limit ... Ouch!)If all of that fails, have the motor checked for gasket leakage. It could be coming from the cooling system. More frequent oil & filter changes may be necessary. But try running the motor hard for several minutes every time you go out. That's the easiest, cheapest, and most enjoyable thing to try.
Q: So you mean I HAVE to open it up and go fast once in awhile?
A: Dang shame, ain't it?
Thanks to Bill, Bo, DJ, Gary, Jim, LubeDude, Ray, Robby, Rockhopper, TheOilDoc, and of course JB for their encouragement and invaluable assistance in preparing this FAQ
Ok on EFI motors its a bigger issue when if don't have the correct prop the EFI dumps in fuel trying to reach and RPM it cant IF the prop is to big
These motors need to be able to reach 6000 RPM with there CURRENT load
Suzuki outboard
In 08 I bought a new 8hp 4 stroke Tohatsu which im very satified with. No problems
I was considering a Suzuki because of a nearby dealer. before friend of mine with a larger suzuki told me his engine was at the dealers for 4 weeks during the season waiting for parts.
In 08 I bought a new 8hp 4 stroke Tohatsu which im very satified with. No problems
I was considering a Suzuki because of a nearby dealer. before friend of mine with a larger suzuki told me his engine was at the dealers for 4 weeks during the season waiting for parts.
Good
I have the 2.5. Bought new in '06. Pushes a tiny WM (Zodiac) 7-foot 2 man (actually about 1.5) dink around like a linebacker pushing a tackle dummy.
Has never failed. Starts on one pull even after sitting for a couple months.
Love the shifter. Much better than clutch IE: Honda. Also, water cooled and quiet at cruise speed. Loud as any other at top speed.
Light. Easy to handle.
Only complaints: Has dripped oil since new. one or two drops a week. Annoying for new motor, but not enough to have it warranteed. Also, rubber bits (fuel fill surround, cover tie downs) not designed for outdoor use. Already cracked.
I have the 2.5. Bought new in '06. Pushes a tiny WM (Zodiac) 7-foot 2 man (actually about 1.5) dink around like a linebacker pushing a tackle dummy.
Has never failed. Starts on one pull even after sitting for a couple months.
Love the shifter. Much better than clutch IE: Honda. Also, water cooled and quiet at cruise speed. Loud as any other at top speed.
Light. Easy to handle.
Only complaints: Has dripped oil since new. one or two drops a week. Annoying for new motor, but not enough to have it warranteed. Also, rubber bits (fuel fill surround, cover tie downs) not designed for outdoor use. Already cracked.
Got the Tohatsu 3.5
for my 10.5 zodiac with an inflatable floor. I like the light weight, about 40 lbs, I can haul it around the deck with one hand.
It pushes me along at about 4 or 5 kts. Not fast but I don't have to row the boat, and I have had absolutely no problems with it in the past year and a half.
for my 10.5 zodiac with an inflatable floor. I like the light weight, about 40 lbs, I can haul it around the deck with one hand.
It pushes me along at about 4 or 5 kts. Not fast but I don't have to row the boat, and I have had absolutely no problems with it in the past year and a half.
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