Does anyone know where I can get (I think it's called) "303" for waterproofing Sunbrella fabric? Thanks in advance!
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Marine stores.
Dan: I got mine at West Marine. I think that they all carry it. You should also be able to get it from a shop that makes Sunbrella covers. It is also marketed by someone else under a different name (cannot remember the brand).
Dan: I got mine at West Marine. I think that they all carry it. You should also be able to get it from a shop that makes Sunbrella covers. It is also marketed by someone else under a different name (cannot remember the brand).
Sailrite also.
Got my "303" when I bought my bimini kit. Used it last Spring on sail covers, helm cover, and bimini. Really does work, water beads up and rolls off. Used almost an entire spray bottle($12.50) but that's two sail covers(cutter), bimini, helm cover, and a large(12'x14') sunbrella boat cover that I made.
Got my "303" when I bought my bimini kit. Used it last Spring on sail covers, helm cover, and bimini. Really does work, water beads up and rolls off. Used almost an entire spray bottle($12.50) but that's two sail covers(cutter), bimini, helm cover, and a large(12'x14') sunbrella boat cover that I made.
Two types of 303 and several types of waterproofer
Original 303 got its name from batch "303" on an anti-oxidant/UV blocker. This was the first of this type of product and later copied by many, including West Marine's own brand. 303 cleverly got manufacturer's endorsements however. This stuff does work as it should although not much documentation scientifically in the early days, there was plenty of anectotal stuff. 303 put out a great flyer "why are tires black etc" whose only inaccuracies included treating all silicoanes as certain silicone oils, ignoring that the mold release for all tires, gelcoat etc is silane based. Saying "silicones" is like saying "carbon-based" there is a huge variety and usefulness. There are several commercial waterproofers on the market - many used for the commercial awning business. The best (most effective, made by Astrup) are solvent based. Others use water -based emulsions, All use silicones for water repellency. This is a balancing act of using non-yellowing constituents and minimizing dirt attraction. All "home use" fabric sealants like this are water emulsions. In fact, even IG's Silkenseal will seal sail covers etc, although non designed for this purpose. 303 has a fine reputation, built on its UV protection and has resisted influx of competing products very well. with both the UV protectant and the fabric protectant it is worth doing a small test area if you plan to use on WHITE fabrics. Another boring diatribe from yours truly!
Original 303 got its name from batch "303" on an anti-oxidant/UV blocker. This was the first of this type of product and later copied by many, including West Marine's own brand. 303 cleverly got manufacturer's endorsements however. This stuff does work as it should although not much documentation scientifically in the early days, there was plenty of anectotal stuff. 303 put out a great flyer "why are tires black etc" whose only inaccuracies included treating all silicoanes as certain silicone oils, ignoring that the mold release for all tires, gelcoat etc is silane based. Saying "silicones" is like saying "carbon-based" there is a huge variety and usefulness. There are several commercial waterproofers on the market - many used for the commercial awning business. The best (most effective, made by Astrup) are solvent based. Others use water -based emulsions, All use silicones for water repellency. This is a balancing act of using non-yellowing constituents and minimizing dirt attraction. All "home use" fabric sealants like this are water emulsions. In fact, even IG's Silkenseal will seal sail covers etc, although non designed for this purpose. 303 has a fine reputation, built on its UV protection and has resisted influx of competing products very well. with both the UV protectant and the fabric protectant it is worth doing a small test area if you plan to use on WHITE fabrics. Another boring diatribe from yours truly!
Recommended by Sunbrella
Sunbrella actually recommends "303" but a word of caution.... Do not get it on your dodger windows or on your zippers.. (from Sailrite Catalog, page 89).
Sunbrella actually recommends "303" but a word of caution.... Do not get it on your dodger windows or on your zippers.. (from Sailrite Catalog, page 89).
Jim Willis - Help! You Left Me Hanging!!!
That was a good and interesting diatribe! You said "The best (most effective, made by Astrup) are solvent based". Since you apparently know quite a bit about this stuff, I have a question: What do you use? The domestic also-ran household emulsified stuff or the good (best, most effective) industrial rated solvent stuff (f.e., Astrup)? If you answer is something like Astrup, can I buy this somewhere or is it one of those licensed applicator materials? If you got a chemical background, another question is: I've got some cans of trichlorethylene and acetone (all good smelling stuff - can get a real buzz going), do you think I could add a little bit to the 303 and improve it? I need to work on my sunbrella before the season starts again and it would be good to use the best.
That was a good and interesting diatribe! You said "The best (most effective, made by Astrup) are solvent based". Since you apparently know quite a bit about this stuff, I have a question: What do you use? The domestic also-ran household emulsified stuff or the good (best, most effective) industrial rated solvent stuff (f.e., Astrup)? If you answer is something like Astrup, can I buy this somewhere or is it one of those licensed applicator materials? If you got a chemical background, another question is: I've got some cans of trichlorethylene and acetone (all good smelling stuff - can get a real buzz going), do you think I could add a little bit to the 303 and improve it? I need to work on my sunbrella before the season starts again and it would be good to use the best.
Astrup fabric treatments
I learned about Astrup ( a very old established company) from two sources. First my associates who now mix my cleaners (used to do all this in barrels in a boatyard!) make all sorts of industrial products. Secondly, an old customer (friend) Gale Canvas in N. California (Valejjo, CA:, 707 644 1225) is a customer of Astrup. I think, however that it is only for professionals. Professionally applied stuff is designed for huge awnings, tents etc where fabric and vinyl has the stuff sprayed on. The Gary Gale is a professional manufacturer of Canvas and other related products and would be able to help you. However, I think that most of the fabric waterproofers work similarly, although some may also have UV and mildew inhibitors. It's an area I becoming interested in , but there is a huge area of expertise out there. You could also look up Astrup on the web. They make material for awnings, bimini tops and more. Now......what about TEAK?? ALW
I learned about Astrup ( a very old established company) from two sources. First my associates who now mix my cleaners (used to do all this in barrels in a boatyard!) make all sorts of industrial products. Secondly, an old customer (friend) Gale Canvas in N. California (Valejjo, CA:, 707 644 1225) is a customer of Astrup. I think, however that it is only for professionals. Professionally applied stuff is designed for huge awnings, tents etc where fabric and vinyl has the stuff sprayed on. The Gary Gale is a professional manufacturer of Canvas and other related products and would be able to help you. However, I think that most of the fabric waterproofers work similarly, although some may also have UV and mildew inhibitors. It's an area I becoming interested in , but there is a huge area of expertise out there. You could also look up Astrup on the web. They make material for awnings, bimini tops and more. Now......what about TEAK?? ALW
Best price for 303
The best price I found for 303 Fabric Guard was via the web at www.theoutdoorscenter.com . They shipped it to me, now its in the 'something for a sunny day' pile (and that pile's getting pretty big).
The best price I found for 303 Fabric Guard was via the web at www.theoutdoorscenter.com . They shipped it to me, now its in the 'something for a sunny day' pile (and that pile's getting pretty big).
Thanks, Jim
Thanks for getting back with the answers. The Astrup Company was really easy to find on the web: The Astrup Company 2937 W. 25th Street Cleveland, Ohio 44113 216/696-2820 FAX: 216/696-8202 Web site: http://www.astrup.com/ I sent them an E-mail asking about their waterproofing product and also expressed my interest in something that will fight mold and mildew. I'll see what develops. Probably should have added that I wanted "industrial strength" stuff. Thanks for the info. Oh - what to do with Teak (except teak decks)? Varnish. The only way to go!!! It looks sooooo good.
Thanks for getting back with the answers. The Astrup Company was really easy to find on the web: The Astrup Company 2937 W. 25th Street Cleveland, Ohio 44113 216/696-2820 FAX: 216/696-8202 Web site: http://www.astrup.com/ I sent them an E-mail asking about their waterproofing product and also expressed my interest in something that will fight mold and mildew. I'll see what develops. Probably should have added that I wanted "industrial strength" stuff. Thanks for the info. Oh - what to do with Teak (except teak decks)? Varnish. The only way to go!!! It looks sooooo good.
Scotchguard
For what it is worth, I have used Scotchguard on Sunbrella numerous times. I usually get two or three years of waterproofing out of a HEAVY application. By the way, the wrong soap can eliminate Sunbrella's waterproofing.
For what it is worth, I have used Scotchguard on Sunbrella numerous times. I usually get two or three years of waterproofing out of a HEAVY application. By the way, the wrong soap can eliminate Sunbrella's waterproofing.
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