The hot water heater in my '84 Islander 36 works fine, read heats water fast & hot, yet the hot water has a strong sulpher smell. Cold water is fine. Any ideas on a fix or is a water heater replacement in order?
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Plumbing lines and or sealant
That is all I can think of that might cause this problem. It sounds like something is reacting with or in the presence of hot water.
That is all I can think of that might cause this problem. It sounds like something is reacting with or in the presence of hot water.
smell like rotten eggs
Take it from a plumber, what your are smelling is the accumulation of elements collecting on your sacrificial element with-in your water heater. All you have to do is remove the element which is located on the top of your water heater. It should have a jelly type substance on it and smell like rotten eggs. This is intalled to protect the water heater from eating itself.
Take it from a plumber, what your are smelling is the accumulation of elements collecting on your sacrificial element with-in your water heater. All you have to do is remove the element which is located on the top of your water heater. It should have a jelly type substance on it and smell like rotten eggs. This is intalled to protect the water heater from eating itself.
John nailed it...but the problem is...
The cheaper marine water heaters used by many production boat builders don't have sacrifical anodes...the inner tank isn't glass, it's anodized alumium...and when the anodizing is eaten away, there's nothing that can be done except replace the whole water heater. Anodes are included in the water heater of better quality--and household--glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining. The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.
The cheaper marine water heaters used by many production boat builders don't have sacrifical anodes...the inner tank isn't glass, it's anodized alumium...and when the anodizing is eaten away, there's nothing that can be done except replace the whole water heater. Anodes are included in the water heater of better quality--and household--glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining. The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.
Peggy, will replacing the...
Will replacing the heater and then flushing the hot water lines downstream of the heater cure the issue or do you think I should sweeten the tanks also?
Will replacing the heater and then flushing the hot water lines downstream of the heater cure the issue or do you think I should sweeten the tanks also?
stinky water
most water smells are from bacteria, pour some bleach in the tank, then let it sit for a while (2 hours or so) and drain it out, best to l=flush it afterwards, had the same problem in pierson mi, and draining the tank cleared smell for a while, but the bleach killed it for agood long time. the pdf link is trying to sell something, but the chlorination advice is valid, another link http://www.dux.com.au/tech_milky.htm But the most informative is under the topic odour here: http://www.ontariohydroenergy.com/WaterQualityInformation.asp I wish I had the web when I first started having the problem in pierson, wasted a lot of time with that before some old guy told me to dump bleach in the tank. Ken.
most water smells are from bacteria, pour some bleach in the tank, then let it sit for a while (2 hours or so) and drain it out, best to l=flush it afterwards, had the same problem in pierson mi, and draining the tank cleared smell for a while, but the bleach killed it for agood long time. the pdf link is trying to sell something, but the chlorination advice is valid, another link http://www.dux.com.au/tech_milky.htm But the most informative is under the topic odour here: http://www.ontariohydroenergy.com/WaterQualityInformation.asp I wish I had the web when I first started having the problem in pierson, wasted a lot of time with that before some old guy told me to dump bleach in the tank. Ken.
That should be all you need to do...
But as long as you have to disconnect plumbing from the water heater, why not do the equivilant of by-passing the water tank and take advantage of the opportunity to recommission the whole system? Can't hurt...
Kendall, when ONLY the HOT water stinks, recommissioning the system with bleach won't cure it. Read my previous reply for more details. Btw...Raritan water heaters are the #1 choice of a LOT of high end builders. Glass lined tank, polymer outer shell that can never corrode, and exceptionally well insulated. Every boat I've owned has had a Raritan water heater...water stayed hot for more than 24 hours without running the generator (none of mine had heat exchanger, but it's available)...the last one was 21 years old when I sold the boat and still in great shape (I wish I could say that about any household water heater I've ever owned..15 years is the max any of those have lasted). Only money I ever had to spend on any of 'em was a new anode. They're pricy compared to the one you have to replace...but like toilets, you get what you pay for. Read all about 'em here: http://www.raritaneng.com/products/water_heaters/index.html Check prices here http://www.raritaneng.com/products/water_heaters/index.html Also check Defender's price.
But as long as you have to disconnect plumbing from the water heater, why not do the equivilant of by-passing the water tank and take advantage of the opportunity to recommission the whole system? Can't hurt...
Kendall, when ONLY the HOT water stinks, recommissioning the system with bleach won't cure it. Read my previous reply for more details. Btw...Raritan water heaters are the #1 choice of a LOT of high end builders. Glass lined tank, polymer outer shell that can never corrode, and exceptionally well insulated. Every boat I've owned has had a Raritan water heater...water stayed hot for more than 24 hours without running the generator (none of mine had heat exchanger, but it's available)...the last one was 21 years old when I sold the boat and still in great shape (I wish I could say that about any household water heater I've ever owned..15 years is the max any of those have lasted). Only money I ever had to spend on any of 'em was a new anode. They're pricy compared to the one you have to replace...but like toilets, you get what you pay for. Read all about 'em here: http://www.raritaneng.com/products/water_heaters/index.html Check prices here http://www.raritaneng.com/products/water_heaters/index.html Also check Defender's price.Chlorine bleach and aluminum again
1. From the link re: anodizing - "You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a caustic solution for an hour or so. Just mix a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container. " Chlorox is a very caustic solution and the chlorine compounds just add to the problems of corrosion. I would not put chlorox in any kind of aluminum tank. See previous discussions in the archives. 2. If the magnesium element is not electrically connected to the tank that it is supposed to protect, it is not properly an anode. 3. Metal salts which would form on a metal element will not smell as I understand it. The smell would be from another process which would release hydrogen sulfide which is acidic. As I understand, the usual source of H2S is biological. Perhaps someone more experienced knows, but what about acidifying the tank with vinegar to remove the sulfides if they cannot be removed mechanically? There might be better choices than vinegar but something must be better than Chlorox for aluminum. Peroxide?
1. From the link re: anodizing - "You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a caustic solution for an hour or so. Just mix a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container. " Chlorox is a very caustic solution and the chlorine compounds just add to the problems of corrosion. I would not put chlorox in any kind of aluminum tank. See previous discussions in the archives. 2. If the magnesium element is not electrically connected to the tank that it is supposed to protect, it is not properly an anode. 3. Metal salts which would form on a metal element will not smell as I understand it. The smell would be from another process which would release hydrogen sulfide which is acidic. As I understand, the usual source of H2S is biological. Perhaps someone more experienced knows, but what about acidifying the tank with vinegar to remove the sulfides if they cannot be removed mechanically? There might be better choices than vinegar but something must be better than Chlorox for aluminum. Peroxide?
A Habit to get Into
is to use ONLY your hot water faucet when you use the boat, EVEN WHEN THERE SI NO HOT WATER IN THE TANK. That way, you keep moving the water through the heater core so it doesn't sit there. yeah, I know, we all have shore side habits, but if you CHANGE your habits when you're on board, you can begin to avoid this problem. It just keeps the water moving and not sitting. Stu
is to use ONLY your hot water faucet when you use the boat, EVEN WHEN THERE SI NO HOT WATER IN THE TANK. That way, you keep moving the water through the heater core so it doesn't sit there. yeah, I know, we all have shore side habits, but if you CHANGE your habits when you're on board, you can begin to avoid this problem. It just keeps the water moving and not sitting. Stu
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