Refinishing Mast: Update
[FONT="]Finished with the 2nd (and last) coat of Interlux Perfection paint yesterday, overall, I am pleased with the results. Here is what I can tell you from my foray:
Applying an industrial coating is not just an activity, it is an experience. It is not something you are going to complete in a day or even two. You really need a period of 4-5 continuous days to apply the coating system correctly.
Read the Perfection bulletin on their website, it will give you a decent outline of the steps you need to take, and the products you need to purchase to apply the system. Then read the application notes on the products themselves, they give more detailed instructions on the application of each product.
First step: Strip the Spar
First I cleaned the the mast with paint thinner and then Acetone. I elected to use this instead of their Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. I believe this worked fine, but for the few extra dollars I would have spent on their recommended product, I would go for the 202 next time. Next I used 120 grit sanding pads and a random orbital sander to remove the existing finish to bright metal. Expect this to take 4-6 hours of continuous sanding.
2nd Step: Apply acid-etching primer
Clean all dust and residue off the bare metal with 202 (I used thinner and acetone) Within 3 hours applied Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 20% with the 355 solvent using a roller. I was expecting an opaque primer, the 353/354 primewash is actually a translucent golden-yellow color. Here is where the consecutive days requirement takes hold: you must apply the next coating within 24 hours or SAND OFF THE PRIMER AND START OVER. Needless to say, I performed the next step a few hours later
3rd Step: Epoxy Primecoat, x2
Here is where the directions from Interlux were a little scant: Applied first coat of Epoxy Primekote 404/414 thinned with Brushing Reducer 233N 25% with a roller. The Brushing Reducer 233N is essential. The 404/414 has the consistency of a putty without it. I let this dry/cure overnight and found that the resulting finish was very orange-peeled. The bulletin recommends sanding in down with 120-220 grit paper and then wiping it down with Brushing Reducer 2333N. I did just that, but it really seemed as if 50-70% of the Primekote I applied was then taken off. The next day I repeated the process, and again ended up with a very orange-peeled surface, which I again sanded smooth. As far as I can tell, between coats of Epoxy Primekote is the only time you have during the process that does not require the next coating in a limited amount of time. This could be spread between 2 weekends, perhaps? As I was waiting for the Primekote to dry, I took a good look at the 2-part Perfection package. On the lid of the Perfection can, obscured by the can of curing agent until you separate them, is another folded set of application instructions. On these instructions they recommend rolling and tipping the Primekote when used with the Perfection paint. This really should be included in the Perfection bulletin, and it would have saved me a couple of hours of sanding and left a thicker coat of Epoxy Primekote.
4th Step: Perfection application.
In the bulletin, they state that preparation is 80% of the work. They are not lying. The application of the Perfection Paint goes rather quickly compared to everything leading up to it. I prepped the Primekote surface with Brushing Reducer 2333N to remove all dust and debris then applied the Perfection paint using the roller and tip method, where you roll on the paint and then use just the tip of a china-bristle brush to smooth out the orange peel. It works extremely well, and I was very pleased with the smoothness of the final surface. Here is what you need to know: This stuff needs to be put on in very thin coatings! A foam roller does not apply much paint, but I still had sags in my first coat, the best sags were at the top of the mast, where I started. After all the work I put in prepping the mast, I briefly entertained sanding down the sags to make the finish as smooth as possible. Fortunately I visited the marina where the boat will be slipped this year and looked at the masts on all of the other sailboats. The mast on my boat will be the best looking one in the marina, and the only person who is going to notice the sags is myself. Besides, I'm losing time on the water at this point due to getting delayed on the project by a surge at work.
The bulletin recommends wiping down the first coat of Perfection with Brushing Reducer 2333N. After letting the coating dry for 10 hours, I attempted this. The solvent immediately softened the paint started wiping it off. No good. I let the coating dry overnight. Instead of wiping down the mast with the solvent before the next coat, I elected to wipe off any dust with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. I applied the 2nd coating, this time thin enough to prevent sags. When applied thin enough to prevent sags, it dries rather quickly. One of the options you have is to thin the Perfection with 2333N, up to 20%. The brushing reducer is slower drying. I did not thin the Perfection, but probably would add at least 10% if I do it again. It would allow more time for tipping off the paint. I do think that 3 coats would be required to achieve the desired coating thickness if the thinner was used.
Summary:
Overall, I am pleased with the finished product. From 5 feet away the mast looks like....Perfection!
Next Time/Other Notes:
-I will sand down the mast outdoors- My shop looks like the set of a Haunted House! (wore a respirator)
-Will use the 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash, would have cost me about an extra $24.00. Honestly, for all the work and expense of the rest of the job, why take a chance?
-Tip-off Epoxy Primekote applications
-Thin the Perfection Paint and apply in thinner layers, 3 coats minimum.
-Have a helper either applying the coating or tipping it off. The only (light) brush strokes I have in the finish are where the 3' sections I would paint and then tip-off have a slight overlap. I think the thinner would make a difference here as well.
-Mix the 2-part coatings in graduated plastic containers, mix small amounts, and mix thoroughly. 1 can of each of the coatings will be enough to coat all of the spars on a Hunter 23 if care is taken, but there is not much room for waste.
-plan on using a new mixing container/roller pan/roller for each coat of product.
-the 2333N Brushing Reducer will clean your tipping brush, but causes the Perfection to clump into small granules. Make sure you clean these out of the brush well between applications, and use a DRY brush for tipping. I thought a brush wetted with the 2333N to tip would be a good idea. It is not.
-Start all of the processes at the top of the mast, any "issues" will be out of sight, out of mind. There is a learning curve to this.
Whew! A little long-winded!
Next: Attaching the hardware/stringing the halyards Saturday!
Regards,
Chris
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