I have a S299 that I am repowering... I have had diesel in the bilges since I bought the boat... so I am replacing the fuel tank. Does anyone have a part number of supplier recommendation? I plan to clean and paint the engine compartment while the old 2qm15 is out.
suggestions for a new fuel tank
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Kittredge, Walter
Fuel tank replacement
My advice would be to forget the part number of the existing tank and look for the largerst replacement that will fit in the physical space where the old tank was. If there's one thing I have to complain about with my S37, it's that it doesn't hold enough fuel (and there is enough space to fit a larger one). If mine ever starts leaking, and I have no choice but to tear the cabinet apart to replace it, I'll upgrade it to the largest that will fit. Walt K
My advice would be to forget the part number of the existing tank and look for the largerst replacement that will fit in the physical space where the old tank was. If there's one thing I have to complain about with my S37, it's that it doesn't hold enough fuel (and there is enough space to fit a larger one). If mine ever starts leaking, and I have no choice but to tear the cabinet apart to replace it, I'll upgrade it to the largest that will fit. Walt K
G
Gord
Fuel Tank
Hi, I am replacing my fuel tandk this week. I ordered a polypropoline one from Westmarine. It is a 18 gallon tank and I kino it is a bit small but it fits in the same space as the old steel one. I wanted the ir 26 gallon tank but it becomes to wide at the front. It is part nimber 406977 in the West marine catalogue. They didn't have the Diesel conversion kit (return line port) so I will adapt it the way it was with the "T" for the return line and vent. The old tank is starting to weep thru the rust. Will keep you posted as I am replacing it this week if the tank gets here as they have promised. good luck with your tank.
Hi, I am replacing my fuel tandk this week. I ordered a polypropoline one from Westmarine. It is a 18 gallon tank and I kino it is a bit small but it fits in the same space as the old steel one. I wanted the ir 26 gallon tank but it becomes to wide at the front. It is part nimber 406977 in the West marine catalogue. They didn't have the Diesel conversion kit (return line port) so I will adapt it the way it was with the "T" for the return line and vent. The old tank is starting to weep thru the rust. Will keep you posted as I am replacing it this week if the tank gets here as they have promised. good luck with your tank.
thanks for the info...
I will look into the west marine solution since all I do is lake sailing... also has anyone considered putting in a hatch in the port side sette qtr berth to facilitate access to the tqank and battery connections?
I will look into the west marine solution since all I do is lake sailing... also has anyone considered putting in a hatch in the port side sette qtr berth to facilitate access to the tqank and battery connections?
G
Gord
Replaced the Tank
Hi, I just finished (today) replacing the old steel tank. Just intime as the bottom was paper thin and would have ruptured any time. This is how I did it. The replacement Tank is Westmarine part #406977 an 18 gal tank measures about 10"x10" x about 4'long. I removed the starboard hinged bunk that is a lot of piano hinge screws. Then unscrewd the front of the settee panel (had to remove the trim from in front of the galley bulkhead). At first I was going to remove the settee base but it is fiberglassed into the hull. Disconnected the hoses at the pump. I had my local marina pump the diesel fuel into Jerry cans. Used the supply fitting, attached their hose & 12v pump. Worked well until the pick up started to clog up with crap. We then carefully lifted & slid the tank out with out spilling the remaining fuel. (Use lots of stay dry rags). Shoulda seen the rusted bottom, left paint and rust and weeping fuel all over. Any way after thoroughly cleaning fit the new tank on 3 new 1/4x1 1/2 battens to support the new tank. Marked the profile of the new tank on the 2 plywood hold down stringers and cut out to suit. Replace the electrical sender with the mechanical gauge on the original tank, fits perfectly and works the same. The filler hose will fit fine and the shut off for the fuel supply can be switched over. You will need some 5/16 supply hose about 7' from the raycor filter. Got the hose at a local farm supply. Marine supply may only have gas hose (don't use it). The supply hose is beside the filler neck where the old return & vent are. Used the original connector for the return and vent line. Had to get a barbed end and coupler. Cut some of the vent hose to enable the vent/return T be placed away from the tank other wise it is to tall. Make sure the vent line is looped up higher than the return line, I used a couple of plumbers U clamps. You don't need the diesel return part shown in the catalogue. I'm sending it back. I prefer the mechanical fuel gauge from the old tank. I notched the middle Tank hold down stringer to route the new supply line to the other end of the tank. The bottom sludgey fuel was disposed of and I filtered about 7 gallons of the fuel back into the tank. Doubled clamped every thing. Changed the filter and put all the panels back inplace. All done about 6hrs including running around and just messing about in boats. Good luck
Hi, I just finished (today) replacing the old steel tank. Just intime as the bottom was paper thin and would have ruptured any time. This is how I did it. The replacement Tank is Westmarine part #406977 an 18 gal tank measures about 10"x10" x about 4'long. I removed the starboard hinged bunk that is a lot of piano hinge screws. Then unscrewd the front of the settee panel (had to remove the trim from in front of the galley bulkhead). At first I was going to remove the settee base but it is fiberglassed into the hull. Disconnected the hoses at the pump. I had my local marina pump the diesel fuel into Jerry cans. Used the supply fitting, attached their hose & 12v pump. Worked well until the pick up started to clog up with crap. We then carefully lifted & slid the tank out with out spilling the remaining fuel. (Use lots of stay dry rags). Shoulda seen the rusted bottom, left paint and rust and weeping fuel all over. Any way after thoroughly cleaning fit the new tank on 3 new 1/4x1 1/2 battens to support the new tank. Marked the profile of the new tank on the 2 plywood hold down stringers and cut out to suit. Replace the electrical sender with the mechanical gauge on the original tank, fits perfectly and works the same. The filler hose will fit fine and the shut off for the fuel supply can be switched over. You will need some 5/16 supply hose about 7' from the raycor filter. Got the hose at a local farm supply. Marine supply may only have gas hose (don't use it). The supply hose is beside the filler neck where the old return & vent are. Used the original connector for the return and vent line. Had to get a barbed end and coupler. Cut some of the vent hose to enable the vent/return T be placed away from the tank other wise it is to tall. Make sure the vent line is looped up higher than the return line, I used a couple of plumbers U clamps. You don't need the diesel return part shown in the catalogue. I'm sending it back. I prefer the mechanical fuel gauge from the old tank. I notched the middle Tank hold down stringer to route the new supply line to the other end of the tank. The bottom sludgey fuel was disposed of and I filtered about 7 gallons of the fuel back into the tank. Doubled clamped every thing. Changed the filter and put all the panels back inplace. All done about 6hrs including running around and just messing about in boats. Good luck
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