Suggestion for Furling Line?

[thinwater]

And the core-only will not flatten out on the drum (desirable) like the cover-only will. Keeping shape is desirable over blocks, which is one more reason why core-only make sense for halyards and sheets... but that is NOT what we are talking about. This is the ONLY application on the boat that requires winding on a drum.

I'm certain on some very large boats there may be strength concerns, but not until sheet loads are well over 3000 pounds (when the sail is deployed there is a lot on the drum and the leverage is good).

You are really over-thinking a non-problem. Pull the core, taper, lock-stich, clove hitch to the drum (with stopper knot) if the hole is inaccessible. I'd be done in 10 minutes (I've done this a number if times).

 

[Ward H]

Well now, it appears it is a 50/50 split on to de-core or not to de-core.
This is what I read when I searched the subject and why I was actually asking for a suggestion on a brand/type of line which would lay/furl correctly, all else (# of wraps, alignment, etc) being correct.

My problem is that the line does not appear to roll onto the drum neatly. It builds up "high" in the center and starts to rub just as the jib comes within 1 turn of being fully out while there are only a few wraps to either side of the high spot. Kind of like the line does not slide off the previous wrap to make a smooth coil on the drum.

I'm doing about 4 wraps of the jib sheets when furled leaving 2 wraps of the furling line on the drum. Guess I see too many jibs blown open so I want to make sure mine is wrapped tightly.

My thinking was a smoother slipperier line would "lay" better on the drum.
APSLTD suggested 1/4" Sta Set but I was hoping to keep with 5/16" for better handling. I know when I switched the centerboard pendant from 5/16” to ¼” line it made a big difference in how easily I could grab the line. Who would have thought 1/8” would make that much difference but for my grip it did.

Looks like my choice is either go with ¼”, try de-coring, or build the custom line Joe talks about.

About the strength issue, if I have 22 wraps on the drum when fully deployed and I de-core the first 7 wraps, wouldn’t the remaining 15 wraps of full strength line be strong enough to begin furling the jib? The weaker de-cored section would only take on strain of furling/unfurling the jib when the jib is at or under 1/3rd deployed and it winds pretty easy at that point.
When the jib is fully deployed there is no tension on the furling line except that which I put on it to keep it taught.

Lots of good information, I need to give it some more thought.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

My problem is that the line does not appear to roll onto the drum neatly. It builds up "high" in the center and starts to rub just as the jib comes within 1 turn of being fully out while there are only a few wraps to either side of the high spot. Kind of like the line does not slide off the previous wrap to make a smooth coil on the drum.

So now we see where the problem is, and decoring ain't going to help one little bit on the Selden Furlex 100S. The problem lies elsewhere.

Thinking back to our Selden Furlex 100S rig, as I remember, the line is evenly spread across the drum when unfurled. With your boat being a 1980, I'd hazard a guess that the furling line has been replaced at least once. Perhaps with the wrong type of line. The original Selden furling line is an unusual weave that is speckled black and white and very hard. Even when new (1998) I remember it as being an unusually hard weave. I can see this as being unable to pile on top of each other and falling side to side causing a better distribution across the drum. Check your present line to see how hard it is. Maybe the wrong line or the original line has been softened by age. Maybe rub a little Viagra on it to see if that helps .

If it is the wrong line and is soft, the solution will be a most unpleasant one ............... contacting your local Selden dealer and ordering their furling line. Without knowing the brand name of the Selden line, it's going to cost, and cost, and cost . I recently bought two tiny plastic sleeves for the halyard swivel and that was $60.00 with delivery. Shouldn't b!tch............. could have just as easily been $160.00 as he knew I needed it badly.

 

[Doug4bass]

One more thing that hasnt been mentioned. It is KEY that the furling line has a fair, 90dg lead into the drum. I find that helps the way the line lays on the drum.

 

[Ward H]

Ralph, you got it!
The line I took off was probably original but who knows. It was white with black flecks and was old, soft and thicker than the new 5/16" Samson XLS Yacht Braid I replaced it with. (which had been bought for use as a halyard).
That Yacht Braid worked well for a season but now has the same problem so slicker, harder line is what I am after.

Doug, pretty sure I got the alignment set well.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

That Yacht Braid worked well for a season but now has the same problem so slicker, harder line is what I am after.

Glad to here that's the solution. Sorry I can't give you a lead on what type of rope this is. The attached picture may give you a lead. Otherwise, I'm afraid you're stuck with going to your local Selden dealer and suffering the consequences. Maybe before you go could google "robbing banks" to help defray the cost.

 

[BobM]

I changed the line for my Hood sync the manual said to remove the core. It was easy yo accomplish. You still have to keep tension on the furling line when unfurling to avoid an over ride. I had a bad over ride once wile sailing solo. It sucked. Avoid it.

 

[centerline]

Keep in mind you are weakening the part of the furling line that bears the greatest load- when the sail is fully deployed

Not really... you are thinking backwards. The de-cored part of the line would be the end that connects to the core of the drum....
So, when the de-cored line is exposed to any stress, the sail is nearly all furled on the drum and it pulls easy... maximum stress comes into play on the furling line when the sail is fully deployed and the line with the core still in it has been wound over the de-cored section that was buried at the core of the drum as the sail unfurled...

 

[Joe]

Not really... you are thinking backwards. The de-cored part of the line would be the end that connects to the core of the drum....
So, when the de-cored line is exposed to any stress, the sail is nearly all furled on the drum and it pulls easy... maximum stress comes into play on the furling line when the sail is fully deployed and the line with the core still in it has been wound over the de-cored section that was buried at the core of the drum as the sail unfurled...

Thanks for that very clear explanation.....

 

[Ron20324]

Not really... you are thinking backwards. The de-cored part of the line would be the end that connects to the core of the drum....

You're right. I was thinking bass-akwards because a slip neighbor de-cored his at the cockpit end. Mea culpa.

 

[Ward H]

Just to follow up, I went ahead and decored the first 7 to 8 wraps of the furling line and locked stitched the end of the core to keep it in place. When fully furled only a couple of feet of the decored line is visible.

This solved my problem. Furling the jib is smoother now as there is plenty of room on the drum instead of line filling it.

I did contact the local Furlex dealer who said the line was standard NER Regatta Braid. (Corrected from Furled dealer and Yacht Braid)

Thanks all.

 

[JamesG161]

eMail the OEM for their recommendation.
Jim...

 

[Ward H]

eMail the OEM for their recommendation.
Jim...

All attempts to contact OEM led me to the NJ Furlex dealer.

 

[JamesG161]

Mine is z-spars. I bought (on sale at West Marine) the diameter and length recommended on their website because it said that the line could get hardened and not track properly.
At the same time I read that they would rebuild or replace any bearings, spooler and tracker for $180. I did that.

Guess what bonus I got?
It came back fully spooled with their line at the right length for my boat!:dance:

It is a very different line than the original or the one I bought.

It feels and looks like it is oiled. but not. It takes 6 loops on a wench to grip it.

You might check with Z-Spars on what they use. My guess is it tracks and spools better.
Jim..

 

[All U Get]

It feels and looks like it is oiled. but not. It takes 6 loops on a wench to grip it.


Jim..

You did say wench.

All U Get

 

[JamesG161]

:wow:
You can see where my mind was, but mine did not have a sword. She had a schooner of cold beer.

Jim...

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Jim, I'm beginning to think that you like beer ...