Adding weight to the ballast tank poses many issues. As one who is the most knowledagble of this boat, I will tell you the following. First, never cut into the ballast tank lid plus you would have to cut thru the cabin floor. This is a major issue of reglassing and to be blunt with this boat, you and even many fiberglass shops would destroy the integrity. Hunter even advised against it. Some tried and failed. I fixed one as I know how to but told the customer not to do a dumb stunt like that again.
Secondly, you are adding weight which will cause more weight to tow; thus, more gas. But that is not really the problem. The entire weight of the dry boat of 3000 lbs. sits on the bunk boards and to do that will interfere wih the integrity of the trailer frame not to mention that you will dimple the hull into the bunk boards which will cause weakness in the glass.
Further, there is no need to add the weight if you know how to sail the 26 or 260 properly at a heel of no more than 14 degrees by decreasing sail area and/or letting the sheet lines out or a combination thereof. This boat will sail faster flatter due to its design. I have proved that time and time again.
So the best advice, forget that crazy idea of adding weight to the ballast tank. I may be known as Crazy Dave but in realty, I am not that crazy to do that.
crazy dave condon