Whatever it is called, broke the thing on the pump for the sink where the water hose attaches. I was able to jury rig something that wieghed about two pounds but the check valve worked in the opposite direction. Spent about three hours today looking for the parts without success. Sooooooooo, does Hunter have them and how much. Thanx, alan.
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Richard Graef
Check with Hunter Dealer
These Check valves are the weak point in the system. I replaced both of mine this year. My Hunter dealer keeps a box of them as they crack if either overtightened or if left connected to the pump in freezing weather. They were not very expensive. Richard Graef S/V Sandpiper Indianapolis, IN
These Check valves are the weak point in the system. I replaced both of mine this year. My Hunter dealer keeps a box of them as they crack if either overtightened or if left connected to the pump in freezing weather. They were not very expensive. Richard Graef S/V Sandpiper Indianapolis, IN
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Ray Bowles
Alan, I went to a local RV & trailer parts store
and bought a whole new fixture. I was lucky enough that it covered the old mounting holes and cost under $35. Ray S/V Speedy 95 H26
and bought a whole new fixture. I was lucky enough that it covered the old mounting holes and cost under $35. Ray S/V Speedy 95 H26
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David R. King
Stupid faucet II
Alan, The worst thing about my 1997 h26 are the stupid faucets. I replaced both the galley and head faucets with higher quality units from West Marine. The galley faucet is a foot pump type. I have now enjoyed a couple of years with intelligent faucets. David King "Molly"
Alan, The worst thing about my 1997 h26 are the stupid faucets. I replaced both the galley and head faucets with higher quality units from West Marine. The galley faucet is a foot pump type. I have now enjoyed a couple of years with intelligent faucets. David King "Molly"
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Tom
West Marine
I had the same problem...I found a brass fitting at West Marine for around a buck. Make sure you buy a 3/8 female that attaches to the faucet, and a 3/8 male end for the hose. Hope this helps.
I had the same problem...I found a brass fitting at West Marine for around a buck. Make sure you buy a 3/8 female that attaches to the faucet, and a 3/8 male end for the hose. Hope this helps.
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Tom
I replaced mine with...
small electric pump units that came with a pump and faucet. All I have to do is push a button and the water flows continuosly until I puch the button again. They were $35-40 for a kit and I got them from West of Defender. The Hunter pumps really sucked. Tom
small electric pump units that came with a pump and faucet. All I have to do is push a button and the water flows continuosly until I puch the button again. They were $35-40 for a kit and I got them from West of Defender. The Hunter pumps really sucked. Tom
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Mike
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Gerard
Hunter part...
One of my faucets leaked badly and I found that the inside was badly corroded and encrusted. Not worth fixing, hard water. I spoke to Hunter today and they have the replacement for $30 and change. Same holes, no drilling works for me. Good luck...
One of my faucets leaked badly and I found that the inside was badly corroded and encrusted. Not worth fixing, hard water. I spoke to Hunter today and they have the replacement for $30 and change. Same holes, no drilling works for me. Good luck...
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BART FORD
plumbing
The plumbing is the same whether it is on your boat or in your house. At the tank, install a 1/4" or 3/8" male close nipple. Brass is best. connect to this a brass swing check valve of the same pipe size. Out of the seing check, use a brass hose connector. Doulbe clamp your water line, Feed it up thru the bulkhead to the bottom of the faucet. Use a female hose barb connector here. Screw the connector on, put the hose clamps loosely on the hose and then connect the hose and tighten the clamps. All Parts are available at any well stocked hardware store or plumbing house. Push comes to shove ,you can these stuff at teh the big boxes like Home Depot or Lowe's. If you run into problems, feel free to ask me questions. bart5008@aol.com
The plumbing is the same whether it is on your boat or in your house. At the tank, install a 1/4" or 3/8" male close nipple. Brass is best. connect to this a brass swing check valve of the same pipe size. Out of the seing check, use a brass hose connector. Doulbe clamp your water line, Feed it up thru the bulkhead to the bottom of the faucet. Use a female hose barb connector here. Screw the connector on, put the hose clamps loosely on the hose and then connect the hose and tighten the clamps. All Parts are available at any well stocked hardware store or plumbing house. Push comes to shove ,you can these stuff at teh the big boxes like Home Depot or Lowe's. If you run into problems, feel free to ask me questions. bart5008@aol.com
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Boat and house plumbing not the same...
Boats are a lot simpler, actually. Standard fresh water hose size on boats is 3/4" ID. Minimum tank vent size is 5/8" ID. There should be a threaded discharge port at the bottom of the tank into which one goes. Straight or elbow pvc thread-barb fittings are available from any boat store, plumbing supply and most hardware stores. If the tank is plastic, do NOT use brass or any metal fitting. Plastic and metal have different thermal co-efficients (meaning they expand and contract at different rates and in different amounts), which can result in a leak at the fitting that no sealant can seal (because nothing bonds pemanently to polyethylene), or even a cracked tank. The other end of the hose can be connected to the faucet as Bart described. Do not use ANY sealant on the hose connections...sooner or later all hoses have to be replaced and sealant makes that impossible without possible damage to other parts. Double clamp all connection, making sure the screws are on opposing sides of the hose.
Boats are a lot simpler, actually. Standard fresh water hose size on boats is 3/4" ID. Minimum tank vent size is 5/8" ID. There should be a threaded discharge port at the bottom of the tank into which one goes. Straight or elbow pvc thread-barb fittings are available from any boat store, plumbing supply and most hardware stores. If the tank is plastic, do NOT use brass or any metal fitting. Plastic and metal have different thermal co-efficients (meaning they expand and contract at different rates and in different amounts), which can result in a leak at the fitting that no sealant can seal (because nothing bonds pemanently to polyethylene), or even a cracked tank. The other end of the hose can be connected to the faucet as Bart described. Do not use ANY sealant on the hose connections...sooner or later all hoses have to be replaced and sealant makes that impossible without possible damage to other parts. Double clamp all connection, making sure the screws are on opposing sides of the hose.
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