Can you repack your stuffing box while the boat is in the water. I know that some water will come through but will it be a fast drip or pour in ? Thanks ahead a time MaineSail for your steps on repacking!!
Stuffing Box
- Thread starter jaydog5000
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The rate of flooding will depend in large part
on the location of your cutlass bearing. Mine is in the stern tube so the intrusion rate is rather slow. But if your cutlass bearing is in a strut I would expect the intrusion rate to be very significant.
on the location of your cutlass bearing. Mine is in the stern tube so the intrusion rate is rather slow. But if your cutlass bearing is in a strut I would expect the intrusion rate to be very significant.
Sure you can!
I've changed the packing and inspected all components of the assembly on a 2" diameter shaft in a trawler that was 5 feet below the water. Sure, some water comes in, but not enough to cause any concern. I personally think the incoming water is good for washing out the housing. I've probably spilled more beer in boat in the last 40 years than the water that comes in while changing the packing.
I've changed the packing and inspected all components of the assembly on a 2" diameter shaft in a trawler that was 5 feet below the water. Sure, some water comes in, but not enough to cause any concern. I personally think the incoming water is good for washing out the housing. I've probably spilled more beer in boat in the last 40 years than the water that comes in while changing the packing.
I just checked your tides in the Boston waters.
If your boat can be safely grounded you could bring it to a pier that dried out at low tide and tie up to the pier and change the packing at low tide. You could have at least 4 hours with the water below the stern tube.
If your boat can be safely grounded you could bring it to a pier that dried out at low tide and tie up to the pier and change the packing at low tide. You could have at least 4 hours with the water below the stern tube.
Always do it in the water
That's the best way because it can be tested for the right rate of drip right away. I use some rubber from motorcycle tire inner tubes or you can use an inner tube from a bicycle. Cut it into a flat strip and, once you've backed the stuffing box off, wrap the rubber around the shaft log. No water comes in.
That's the best way because it can be tested for the right rate of drip right away. I use some rubber from motorcycle tire inner tubes or you can use an inner tube from a bicycle. Cut it into a flat strip and, once you've backed the stuffing box off, wrap the rubber around the shaft log. No water comes in.
jay,
Yes it can be done in water. Just be as prepared as you can be to minimize getting salt water on your tranny or engine. It's best to pre-cut you packing rings and to know the actual size by measuring the shaft log threads then subtracting the shaft diameter. For example if you have a 1.5" shaft log, at the threads, as measured by a pair of calipers and you have a 1" shaft you need 1/4" packing. If your shaft log is smaller than 1.5" and you have a 1" shaft it's likely you'd need 3/16" and not 1/4"..
Yes it can be done in water. Just be as prepared as you can be to minimize getting salt water on your tranny or engine. It's best to pre-cut you packing rings and to know the actual size by measuring the shaft log threads then subtracting the shaft diameter. For example if you have a 1.5" shaft log, at the threads, as measured by a pair of calipers and you have a 1" shaft you need 1/4" packing. If your shaft log is smaller than 1.5" and you have a 1" shaft it's likely you'd need 3/16" and not 1/4"..
Yes, it can be done in the water
And it is not a big deal. Scared the hell out me when I had to do it the first time, but hey, the boat was sinking anyway. Just have everything ready to go, tools ready, flax cut, and lube handy. Hardest part is picking the old flax out of the nut. Make sure you have something to dig it out with. John
And it is not a big deal. Scared the hell out me when I had to do it the first time, but hey, the boat was sinking anyway. Just have everything ready to go, tools ready, flax cut, and lube handy. Hardest part is picking the old flax out of the nut. Make sure you have something to dig it out with. John
I have only replace mine one time, BUT I wouldn't
do it. What if you have problems. This job is hard enough on the hard. That said, if you know what you are doing, don't mind a lot of water coming in the boat, the water is shallow where the work is done, then yes you can do it. My 2 cents! Sail Maine is 100% right about pre-cutting the rings and having all the right tools on hand. I would recommend you have done this job before on the hard too!
do it. What if you have problems. This job is hard enough on the hard. That said, if you know what you are doing, don't mind a lot of water coming in the boat, the water is shallow where the work is done, then yes you can do it. My 2 cents! Sail Maine is 100% right about pre-cutting the rings and having all the right tools on hand. I would recommend you have done this job before on the hard too!
No personal experience but I've heard....
.... of people diving under the boat and packing modeling clay around the shaft from the outside. That slows the water down considerably and allows you to change the flax packing inside. Once done you can dive again to remove the clay. As I said, I've never done this personally but it make sense to me.
.... of people diving under the boat and packing modeling clay around the shaft from the outside. That slows the water down considerably and allows you to change the flax packing inside. Once done you can dive again to remove the clay. As I said, I've never done this personally but it make sense to me.
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