The stuffing box on my H31 drips about 1 drop every 5 seconds. This is my first inboard-engined boat, so I'm a novice at this. The packing nut is plastic, plus drilled and cotter-pinned on each hexagonal "face", therefore I can only turn the nut in 1/6 turn increments or the pins won't line up. I'm afraid to overtighten the nut, since it's plastic. I'll probably just re-pack it when I pull the boat for the season in a couple of weeks (big sigh here!) but any suggestions on how tight it should be? Should I try tightening it or will I risk breaking the nut?
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It's an Erie sight huh?
Tom: I don't think you need to worry about breaking the nut. I usually tighten mine an increment or two and try it. When you have the older flax type packing I hear that they recommend 1-3 drops per minute. If you are going to re-stuff the box then you have a couple of options. The first and most inexpensive is to go with some of the newer teflon packing. With this stuff you can tighten enough to eliminate the drip totally. The next option is to replace the entire box with a PYI shaft seal. This elimiates the maintenance issue all together. You just burb the thing when you put the boat back in the water each time you pull it. I price on these things are about $175-200 plus installation if you have someone do it for you. There is a thread that is going on about this subject in the past week. The shaft seal would be my preference.
Tom: I don't think you need to worry about breaking the nut. I usually tighten mine an increment or two and try it. When you have the older flax type packing I hear that they recommend 1-3 drops per minute. If you are going to re-stuff the box then you have a couple of options. The first and most inexpensive is to go with some of the newer teflon packing. With this stuff you can tighten enough to eliminate the drip totally. The next option is to replace the entire box with a PYI shaft seal. This elimiates the maintenance issue all together. You just burb the thing when you put the boat back in the water each time you pull it. I price on these things are about $175-200 plus installation if you have someone do it for you. There is a thread that is going on about this subject in the past week. The shaft seal would be my preference.
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Paul Akers
Don't stop the water
Don't stop the water entirely. You need those drips for shaft lubrication. I wouldn't even worry about the amount you now have dripping. I've heard that 1 drip every 10 seconds is enough. Good Luck.
Don't stop the water entirely. You need those drips for shaft lubrication. I wouldn't even worry about the amount you now have dripping. I've heard that 1 drip every 10 seconds is enough. Good Luck.
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Ron
Let'r Drip
Mine drips once every 7 or 8 seconds...Not a bad idea to repack while out of the water.. but it can also be done in the water just as easily.. Ron
Mine drips once every 7 or 8 seconds...Not a bad idea to repack while out of the water.. but it can also be done in the water just as easily.. Ron
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Pete
packing gland
you did not say how old your boat is and if it has ever had the gland repacked, it dosn't take a lot to tighten you can do it by hand (or use light presure from a wrench)when the lock nut is loose,if it is new could be just that it was never tightened by the dealer rather then wore out. you did not mention if it leaks when running only or all the time so I assume it is only when running,if it is all the time the nut is way to loose and need to be tightened. should drip 5 to 10 drops per minute
you did not say how old your boat is and if it has ever had the gland repacked, it dosn't take a lot to tighten you can do it by hand (or use light presure from a wrench)when the lock nut is loose,if it is new could be just that it was never tightened by the dealer rather then wore out. you did not mention if it leaks when running only or all the time so I assume it is only when running,if it is all the time the nut is way to loose and need to be tightened. should drip 5 to 10 drops per minute
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Douglas
Plastic works
I have a 89h30 and also have the plastic set up. It works.....if you want to change it do it while it is hauled. If you repack the existing set up, be aware there is a plastic washer between the nut that screws in and the flax. So when you remove the nut - you won't see the packing. I good shake and rattle will free up the plastic washer. I repacked mine in the water this Spring. I cut off the bottom of a gallon antifreeze jug - left it about 1 1/2 inches high and placed it under the packing nut. After a day out on the water, I take it up, pour what water is in it out, dry it and replace it under the shaft. The engine bilge stays dry and I can monitor the amount of water that drips from the shaft. By the way, after I repacked mine, I get about an 1/8" of water in the container after and hour to an hour and a half of engine hours. -Doug s/v Brenda Gail
I have a 89h30 and also have the plastic set up. It works.....if you want to change it do it while it is hauled. If you repack the existing set up, be aware there is a plastic washer between the nut that screws in and the flax. So when you remove the nut - you won't see the packing. I good shake and rattle will free up the plastic washer. I repacked mine in the water this Spring. I cut off the bottom of a gallon antifreeze jug - left it about 1 1/2 inches high and placed it under the packing nut. After a day out on the water, I take it up, pour what water is in it out, dry it and replace it under the shaft. The engine bilge stays dry and I can monitor the amount of water that drips from the shaft. By the way, after I repacked mine, I get about an 1/8" of water in the container after and hour to an hour and a half of engine hours. -Doug s/v Brenda Gail
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Doug Margison
Stuffing box must drip while underway..
I have the exact same setup in my 90 Hunter 30. My stuffing box drips very little when at dock. Just slightly moist. When underway there is a drip which is what you want (need) to lubricate the shaft and the amount increases with rpm. I put a 1 lb. plastic margarine container under the stuffing box strategically placed and then drain it after motoring. I have never had to drain it when at dock. Works great. Better that the stuffing box drips excessively than not enough. If the nut is tightened too much you will burn and score the shaft. Just tighten until there is a slight drip, perhaps every 10 seconds while underway at low rpm. There will be more of a drip as the rpm increases. But if you have a drip every 5 second at dock, I beleive that is unnecessary and will lead to a wet bilge. Happy sailing Doug.
I have the exact same setup in my 90 Hunter 30. My stuffing box drips very little when at dock. Just slightly moist. When underway there is a drip which is what you want (need) to lubricate the shaft and the amount increases with rpm. I put a 1 lb. plastic margarine container under the stuffing box strategically placed and then drain it after motoring. I have never had to drain it when at dock. Works great. Better that the stuffing box drips excessively than not enough. If the nut is tightened too much you will burn and score the shaft. Just tighten until there is a slight drip, perhaps every 10 seconds while underway at low rpm. There will be more of a drip as the rpm increases. But if you have a drip every 5 second at dock, I beleive that is unnecessary and will lead to a wet bilge. Happy sailing Doug.
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Randy
Plastic washer??????????????????
I have an88Hunter30 with the plastic stuffing box - got it 2 years ago, after reading this reply I went down and pulled the stuffing out of the box and whattaaauuuknowwww!!!!!!! theres a plastic washer back there!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the tip my box is now packed correctly Randy Williams s/v Cabaret Kemah, TX WB5CNM
I have an88Hunter30 with the plastic stuffing box - got it 2 years ago, after reading this reply I went down and pulled the stuffing out of the box and whattaaauuuknowwww!!!!!!! theres a plastic washer back there!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the tip my box is now packed correctly Randy Williams s/v Cabaret Kemah, TX WB5CNM
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Tim Schaaf
dripless
For what it is worth, "Drip Free" packing really does work. The key ingredient is a sort of teflon putty. It eliminates the drips entirely. The shaft can get warm (not really hot) without damage. You tighten it from time to time like regular packing, except to the point where it doesn't drip. For me, that is just beyond the point where you feel a slight resistance turning the prop shaft by hand. This stuff used to be guaranteed for the life of the boat (!),obviously a stretch. Mine has lasted six years so far, so I can't complain. A dry bilge is on the list of things you can do to minimize the chance of blistering the exterior gelcoat and laminate.
For what it is worth, "Drip Free" packing really does work. The key ingredient is a sort of teflon putty. It eliminates the drips entirely. The shaft can get warm (not really hot) without damage. You tighten it from time to time like regular packing, except to the point where it doesn't drip. For me, that is just beyond the point where you feel a slight resistance turning the prop shaft by hand. This stuff used to be guaranteed for the life of the boat (!),obviously a stretch. Mine has lasted six years so far, so I can't complain. A dry bilge is on the list of things you can do to minimize the chance of blistering the exterior gelcoat and laminate.
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