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I've probably adjusted a dozen or so...
... and every one was "righty-tighty", wrenches at 11:00 and 1:00 = pull apart. While that offers no assurance that yours is the same, there is little risk in proceeding with that assumption.
... and every one was "righty-tighty", wrenches at 11:00 and 1:00 = pull apart. While that offers no assurance that yours is the same, there is little risk in proceeding with that assumption.
On my 1983 Catalina 30 this is how it works. Facing towards the front of the boat the locking nut turns to the left to loosen. You need to use two wrenches at the same time holding the gland with the second wrench while turning the locking nut to the left. Then the packing containing gland would turn to the right (still facing forwards) to loosen. Certain type wrenches work and fit much better than others in this tight space so you may have to use trail and error. When I do this I then move the gland as far forwards on the shaft as possible to help in the removal of the old packing, which I find difficult to remove. I posted a question about GFO packing a few weeks back which you can access. I also clean the threads and put antiseize on the threads which helps me the next time around.
"Anti-Seize".....Great Idea
Sooner or later that water coming through the stuffing box is going to go beyond the, drip.....drip....drip. On my '88 it seems I am always adjusting the re-tightening and relying on my bilge pump to handle the load. I bought the adjustable wrench that most marine stores carry and found it perfect for the job. The idea of using "anti-seize" John is EXCELLENT! I use it on dozens of auto parts and it never dawned on me to use it on the lock nut on the stuffing box. One other helpful hint if not already standard practice is taking the frame/rear engine access door off for a better reach to the fitting. Its tight enough between the ladder (that comes down too!)and the engine compartment. Now, I have to weigh if I want to change out the packing while the boat is floating, as many have had success with no issues. Bob
Sooner or later that water coming through the stuffing box is going to go beyond the, drip.....drip....drip. On my '88 it seems I am always adjusting the re-tightening and relying on my bilge pump to handle the load. I bought the adjustable wrench that most marine stores carry and found it perfect for the job. The idea of using "anti-seize" John is EXCELLENT! I use it on dozens of auto parts and it never dawned on me to use it on the lock nut on the stuffing box. One other helpful hint if not already standard practice is taking the frame/rear engine access door off for a better reach to the fitting. Its tight enough between the ladder (that comes down too!)and the engine compartment. Now, I have to weigh if I want to change out the packing while the boat is floating, as many have had success with no issues. Bob
Bob-antiseize
Thanks Bob, I also remove the door when working on the stuffing box. When I first bought my boat (1983 Catalina 30 TR) seven seasons ago, one of the first things I did was to turn all the access doors upsidedown so to speak. Now when I open them the door falls down. This makes it easier for me to work instead of always holding the door up with one hand to prevent it from closing. John
Thanks Bob, I also remove the door when working on the stuffing box. When I first bought my boat (1983 Catalina 30 TR) seven seasons ago, one of the first things I did was to turn all the access doors upsidedown so to speak. Now when I open them the door falls down. This makes it easier for me to work instead of always holding the door up with one hand to prevent it from closing. John
Can also use Lanocote
instead of anti seize, does the same thing. If you slap it on both the inside and outside it keeps the whole contraption clean and can be opened almost by hand.
instead of anti seize, does the same thing. If you slap it on both the inside and outside it keeps the whole contraption clean and can be opened almost by hand.
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