I have to continually adjust the stuffing box on my 376 It seems as though It has to be tightened all of the time. The engine only has 175hrs. I notice that the bilge pump begins run frequently and sure enough there is water continually dripping from the packing nut. I am concerned about over tightening. Any Suggestions?
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Miles
Try dripless packing or...
a dripless shaftseal. I put the teflon stuff in my boat last haul-out and it's been dry ever since. Cost about $50. You can also get one of the dripless shaftseals that replace the stuffing box, I've heard good things about them too. Have you tried tightening the nut until the leak stops, backing off just a little, and then running the engine in gear in the slip for a bit? Feel the box every now and then and see if it's getting hot? Assuming your packing is decent you should be able to get it adjusted so it only drips a little bit when running. If it's really a big problem perhaps you have a shaft alignment problem that's wearing the packing prematurely?
a dripless shaftseal. I put the teflon stuff in my boat last haul-out and it's been dry ever since. Cost about $50. You can also get one of the dripless shaftseals that replace the stuffing box, I've heard good things about them too. Have you tried tightening the nut until the leak stops, backing off just a little, and then running the engine in gear in the slip for a bit? Feel the box every now and then and see if it's getting hot? Assuming your packing is decent you should be able to get it adjusted so it only drips a little bit when running. If it's really a big problem perhaps you have a shaft alignment problem that's wearing the packing prematurely?
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Dakota Jim Russell
Dripless from PYI Works Great
Agree with Miles . . . one of the dripless solutions is great. Have the Dripless Unit on from PYI and have a dry bilge. Minimum of attention, like birping it when you first put the boat int he water int he spring. Jim
Agree with Miles . . . one of the dripless solutions is great. Have the Dripless Unit on from PYI and have a dry bilge. Minimum of attention, like birping it when you first put the boat int he water int he spring. Jim
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
It's hard to over-tighten a stuffing box
I suspect you aren't tightening it enough. It shouldn't drip at all when the boat's at rest if it's tight enough. Take the boat out under power and while someone else is manning the helm, tighten it until it only drips 3 or 4 times a minute.
I suspect you aren't tightening it enough. It shouldn't drip at all when the boat's at rest if it's tight enough. Take the boat out under power and while someone else is manning the helm, tighten it until it only drips 3 or 4 times a minute.
Probably needs to be replaced!
Art: Your flax may be worn out. Time to replace the stuffing. Time to decide on what to replace it with. You can use some of the new materials that do not required the box to drip, or you can go to a Shaft seal (bascially a permanent solution) for about $200. If you decide to go with a shaft seal you need to haul the boat, repacking can be done in the water.
Art: Your flax may be worn out. Time to replace the stuffing. Time to decide on what to replace it with. You can use some of the new materials that do not required the box to drip, or you can go to a Shaft seal (bascially a permanent solution) for about $200. If you decide to go with a shaft seal you need to haul the boat, repacking can be done in the water.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Worn out after only 175 hours???
Not very likely. Besides, if it were, there wouldn't be any room left to tighten it. He apparently has plenty, but is just afraid to do it. Art, tighten it down as much as it will go, then back off till it starts to drip 3-4 times a minute when you're underway under power.
Not very likely. Besides, if it were, there wouldn't be any room left to tighten it. He apparently has plenty, but is just afraid to do it. Art, tighten it down as much as it will go, then back off till it starts to drip 3-4 times a minute when you're underway under power.
It can be over-tightened!
Art: I can be overtightened so be careful or you may need to buy a new shaft. If you overtighten it and it scores the shaft it will never seal. As the packing gets old it gets hard and will no longer provide a seal. You should tighten the nut down about a quarter turn or so at a time. When the engine is NOT running there should be NO drip. You can start the engine and run it in gear at the dock. Now you should only see 2-3 drips/min. If you have more you need to tighten more. But in no case should the shaft heat up. If it is hot, the packing is too tight. If you cannot keep the shaft from getting hot and not dripping more than the 2-3 drips per minute and no drip when the engine is stopped you need to replace the packing. DO NOT work on this while the shaft is rotating. If you do not feel comfortable changing the packing while in the water, call a repair person that does this all the time. If you decide to go with any of the fabric packings there is not much difference in price $5-10 for materials. The moldable packing (like clay) is about $50-60. Personally I'd just use some of the teflon stuff to get you over your immediate problem and then you can decide what you are going to do for a long term solution.
Art: I can be overtightened so be careful or you may need to buy a new shaft. If you overtighten it and it scores the shaft it will never seal. As the packing gets old it gets hard and will no longer provide a seal. You should tighten the nut down about a quarter turn or so at a time. When the engine is NOT running there should be NO drip. You can start the engine and run it in gear at the dock. Now you should only see 2-3 drips/min. If you have more you need to tighten more. But in no case should the shaft heat up. If it is hot, the packing is too tight. If you cannot keep the shaft from getting hot and not dripping more than the 2-3 drips per minute and no drip when the engine is stopped you need to replace the packing. DO NOT work on this while the shaft is rotating. If you do not feel comfortable changing the packing while in the water, call a repair person that does this all the time. If you decide to go with any of the fabric packings there is not much difference in price $5-10 for materials. The moldable packing (like clay) is about $50-60. Personally I'd just use some of the teflon stuff to get you over your immediate problem and then you can decide what you are going to do for a long term solution.
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Les Andersen
Drips
Art, The stuffing box adjustable nut and stationary nut are supposed to have a hole through them where you put a cotter pin. After you tighten the nut properly the pin should keep them from backing off and starting to leak again. If this pin is not there it will always loosen and leak. Also, if the joints in the three rings of stuffing material aren't placed in the tube in the correct orientation the box will leak and will not work properly. It is a very simple process to change out the stuffing in the water and you shouldn't get much water inside the boat. You should be able to tighten the box in the slip until it stops dripping insert the pin and it should not drip (unless under power) for several months. If it doesn't do this I would check the stuffing. Cost you $10-$15, an hour of time, and a little mess. My stuffing is 10 years old and doesn't leak and runs quite cool. I might have atightened it 2x in the past 5 years. It shouldn't be leaking like this at 175 hours unless something is wrong. Les s/v Mutual Fun
Art, The stuffing box adjustable nut and stationary nut are supposed to have a hole through them where you put a cotter pin. After you tighten the nut properly the pin should keep them from backing off and starting to leak again. If this pin is not there it will always loosen and leak. Also, if the joints in the three rings of stuffing material aren't placed in the tube in the correct orientation the box will leak and will not work properly. It is a very simple process to change out the stuffing in the water and you shouldn't get much water inside the boat. You should be able to tighten the box in the slip until it stops dripping insert the pin and it should not drip (unless under power) for several months. If it doesn't do this I would check the stuffing. Cost you $10-$15, an hour of time, and a little mess. My stuffing is 10 years old and doesn't leak and runs quite cool. I might have atightened it 2x in the past 5 years. It shouldn't be leaking like this at 175 hours unless something is wrong. Les s/v Mutual Fun
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