I have a 10 drop a minute leak through my stuffing box without shaft rotation. What is the flax diameter for the Hunter 33? Do they sell Pre cut rings? Also, any suggestions as to procedures while in the water would help. I planned on using flax/Drip-less combination. Any other suggestions are appreciated. Thanks everyone. Edward Brennan SV Time-Away
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
N
Neil N
Stuffing Box Leak
You can change the packing while in the water. First get the smallest packing flax, try and get teflon coated, about 1/16 diameter. Unscrew outer packing nut. Take a strong short wire and clean out the material around the shaft, inside the packing area, and do about 2-3 wraps around your shaft with the new flax. Have a good sponge ready because alot of water will come out. Screw the nut back on by hand, then give it 1/4 turn with your wrench. Start up your engine and put it in gear. If your leaking more than one drop every 10 seconds tighten the nut slightly. Good luck.
You can change the packing while in the water. First get the smallest packing flax, try and get teflon coated, about 1/16 diameter. Unscrew outer packing nut. Take a strong short wire and clean out the material around the shaft, inside the packing area, and do about 2-3 wraps around your shaft with the new flax. Have a good sponge ready because alot of water will come out. Screw the nut back on by hand, then give it 1/4 turn with your wrench. Start up your engine and put it in gear. If your leaking more than one drop every 10 seconds tighten the nut slightly. Good luck.
J
Jim McCue
leak and flax
I aggree with other response and would like to add that you may want to take some emery cloth and "polish the shaft before you un-pack, You may want to bias cut the ends of the flax so that they taper off and more cleanly compress. On my 28.8 I used 3/16th flax. Also it seems to make a difference which way you thread the flax. It bunches up more in one direction v.s the other - depending upon the direction you screw on the head cap. Test out first with some teflon tape on a "J" connect on you plumbing -You'll see what I mean.
I aggree with other response and would like to add that you may want to take some emery cloth and "polish the shaft before you un-pack, You may want to bias cut the ends of the flax so that they taper off and more cleanly compress. On my 28.8 I used 3/16th flax. Also it seems to make a difference which way you thread the flax. It bunches up more in one direction v.s the other - depending upon the direction you screw on the head cap. Test out first with some teflon tape on a "J" connect on you plumbing -You'll see what I mean.
M
Mark Slifko
Try 1/4 turn
If the shaft is 1" you may want to use 3/16 flax. First just try to tighten the stuffing box. Back off of the locking nut and tighten 1/4 turn at a time. I think the drip may stop. If you need to replace flax, a tool is available (like a cork screw on a flexable wire) to remove the old flax, it works real well. You can pre cut the flax, just measure around the shaft, and cut 4 or 5 rings. Each ring should be rotated about 30 degrees (where the ends of each ring meet). Do not wrap the flax around the shaft in a continous spiral ! Some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper will clean up the shaft nicely before you install the flax. Good Luck Mark
If the shaft is 1" you may want to use 3/16 flax. First just try to tighten the stuffing box. Back off of the locking nut and tighten 1/4 turn at a time. I think the drip may stop. If you need to replace flax, a tool is available (like a cork screw on a flexable wire) to remove the old flax, it works real well. You can pre cut the flax, just measure around the shaft, and cut 4 or 5 rings. Each ring should be rotated about 30 degrees (where the ends of each ring meet). Do not wrap the flax around the shaft in a continous spiral ! Some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper will clean up the shaft nicely before you install the flax. Good Luck Mark
J
Jay Hill
Only 10 drops?
Hmmmm.....10 drops a minute, sounds like just enough to keep the shaft cool during heavy motoring. Do you motor a lot? If so, is the leak that bad?
Hmmmm.....10 drops a minute, sounds like just enough to keep the shaft cool during heavy motoring. Do you motor a lot? If so, is the leak that bad?
slow it down
Jay: 10 drip/min without the shaft turning is enough to sink da ship if the bilge pump jams or quits, in not to many days. I think that the normal is 2-4 drips/min with the shaft turning.
Jay: 10 drip/min without the shaft turning is enough to sink da ship if the bilge pump jams or quits, in not to many days. I think that the normal is 2-4 drips/min with the shaft turning.
K
Ken Palmer
Drip-less
I replaced the flax on my H33 this Spring. I bought what I think you are referring to as "drip-free", purchased at West Marine. It was easy to use, by first removing the old flax with a tool made for removing the packing. If you buy one, it is the small version. You also have to buy flax since it is not supplied with the "drip-free" material. Cut two rings, measuring by wrapping and then cutting on the bias. Test fit the ring, making sure the cut isn't too long or too short by wrapping around the shaft. Install the first ring into the nut, then follow the instructions on packing in the "drip-free" putty. It is like a soft clay material, and will build up between the inner ring of flax and the outer ring. When installed, tighten the nut to hand-tight, then an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the wrench. Start the engine and put in gear (make sure your dock lines are good and tight of course). Observe the suffing box for any leaks. With this stuff, there should not be any drips, or very few while the shaft is turning. After running for a while, shut the engine down and touch the stuffing box. It should be warm to the touch, but not so hot that you can't touch it. Re-adjust the nut if necessary. Be very careful while the engine is running! Do not get your hands anywhere that they can get caught. On the subject of doing this while still in the water: I have never tried that, but have talked with several sailors that have. They say that it isn't too difficult to do, but make sure you have sponges and rags at the ready, as well as a working bildge pump and a fully charged battery. My great fear is that doing all of this on the H33 means that you are stuffed in that small opening, practically standing on your head to do this job, and that means that it takes time to get in and out while doing the job. It would be a safe idea to have another person on board in case of an emergency. Otherwise, I would hold off until the next time the boat is hauled out. You might be able to put off the replacement by just tightening the nut now until it stops leaking. It should not leak at all if the shaft is not turning. A few drops a minute while the shaft is turning is the norm. Good luck. Ken, S/V Liberty
I replaced the flax on my H33 this Spring. I bought what I think you are referring to as "drip-free", purchased at West Marine. It was easy to use, by first removing the old flax with a tool made for removing the packing. If you buy one, it is the small version. You also have to buy flax since it is not supplied with the "drip-free" material. Cut two rings, measuring by wrapping and then cutting on the bias. Test fit the ring, making sure the cut isn't too long or too short by wrapping around the shaft. Install the first ring into the nut, then follow the instructions on packing in the "drip-free" putty. It is like a soft clay material, and will build up between the inner ring of flax and the outer ring. When installed, tighten the nut to hand-tight, then an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the wrench. Start the engine and put in gear (make sure your dock lines are good and tight of course). Observe the suffing box for any leaks. With this stuff, there should not be any drips, or very few while the shaft is turning. After running for a while, shut the engine down and touch the stuffing box. It should be warm to the touch, but not so hot that you can't touch it. Re-adjust the nut if necessary. Be very careful while the engine is running! Do not get your hands anywhere that they can get caught. On the subject of doing this while still in the water: I have never tried that, but have talked with several sailors that have. They say that it isn't too difficult to do, but make sure you have sponges and rags at the ready, as well as a working bildge pump and a fully charged battery. My great fear is that doing all of this on the H33 means that you are stuffed in that small opening, practically standing on your head to do this job, and that means that it takes time to get in and out while doing the job. It would be a safe idea to have another person on board in case of an emergency. Otherwise, I would hold off until the next time the boat is hauled out. You might be able to put off the replacement by just tightening the nut now until it stops leaking. It should not leak at all if the shaft is not turning. A few drops a minute while the shaft is turning is the norm. Good luck. Ken, S/V Liberty
- Status
- Not open for further replies.