Stuffing Box Corrosion?
- Thread starter Jim 5757
- Start date
Hi Jim, the green stuff is pretty normal for bronze in the marine environment, so I don't worry about it. What is bothersome is when the fixture's moving parts (box, locking nut) become seized. That is what happens to ours shown in the photo below.
Spent over two hours trying to loosen the locking nut so that I could adjust the box a bit tighter to reduce/stop the sea water drip. The box would rotate, but the stubborn nut just would not budge. After soaking and tapping a number of times I did finally get it to move counterclockwise. Then after working with it I finally got it to do a full rotation clockwise.
My plan now is to apply a coating of copper-based anti-seizing compound on the threads to help reduce the odds of the fixture seizing up between adjustments, usually every other season or more. Someone may have a suggestion as to eliminating the green stuff, but no harm no foul here.
Spent over two hours trying to loosen the locking nut so that I could adjust the box a bit tighter to reduce/stop the sea water drip. The box would rotate, but the stubborn nut just would not budge. After soaking and tapping a number of times I did finally get it to move counterclockwise. Then after working with it I finally got it to do a full rotation clockwise.
My plan now is to apply a coating of copper-based anti-seizing compound on the threads to help reduce the odds of the fixture seizing up between adjustments, usually every other season or more. Someone may have a suggestion as to eliminating the green stuff, but no harm no foul here.
No need to remove the protective corrosion "scab", unless you observe a further deterioration. From that picture, i can see no "continuing" corrosion, but just a nice protective coating.
Jim...
PS: My mother always told me "Don't pick your scab!" on a healing cut.
LOL
Good point Jim! Our mom did the same. I did one good thing which was to put some grease under the threads which did avoid the problem Terry had. I currently have the seal removed and am cleaning it up before I install our rebuilt trans in there.
Good point Jim! Our mom did the same. I did one good thing which was to put some grease under the threads which did avoid the problem Terry had. I currently have the seal removed and am cleaning it up before I install our rebuilt trans in there.
Try using Fluid Film for preventing corrosion in that area. Avoid the rubber coupling.
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The patina on the bronze is one issue; however, I'd clean the shaft itself.
As for the patina -- my concern would be electrolysis. If its just surface oxidation, NO BIG DEAL. As others have said, that's likely what it is. You do maintain zinc(s) to protect the boat. The engine is connected through the ground to those zinc(s)?
As for the patina -- my concern would be electrolysis. If its just surface oxidation, NO BIG DEAL. As others have said, that's likely what it is. You do maintain zinc(s) to protect the boat. The engine is connected through the ground to those zinc(s)?
Thanks guys...Yes, the patina is easily removed with wire brush so no electrolysis problems. I like the idea for that fluid film stuff; gonna check that out! How long has it been since you coated the stuffing box with it Ralph? Looks great!
Sheesh, Ralph, talk about easy and open access to your box. Mine a nightmare.
I usually spray it every year or two. Always right after checking the alignment or anything else that rubs the film off.
A word of caution however, when first sprayed on, this stuff smells like a restaurant's grease trap on a hot August day. Actually, a grease trap that's looooooong overdue for a cleanout. After a day or so, the smell is pretty much gone. Sooner if you run the engine.
Yes, that may be true HOWEVER, it has been decreed that my the rear of my electrical panel would make up for that one small grace.