Stuck SS Fastener

Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Need some advice. Our Maxwell windlass has a flathead slotted machine screw that secures the winch assembly onto the drive shaft. That RH machine screw will not loosen. I've tried PB Blaster, tap-tap-tap, and more PB Blaster. No room for an impact driver. So my question is, will a butane torch get the screw hot enough to help break it loose, or will I need something hotter?
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Thank you for the offer. I have access to one locally, but wanted to try some heat to the screw before taking another shot at it. Up to this point I've tried a hand ratchet with straight slot socket without any heat, but to no avail.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Terry you might consider using some ACF-50.
It can get into some tight spaces and address corrosion problems.
Available on Amazon. I called the company about the product and they sent me a free sample.

I plan to use it on the winches when I get up to the boat in the next 2 weeks.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Thanks John. The company listed Redden Marine in Bellingham as the nearest retail outlet. Must give it a try. Any thoughts about whether a Butane torch will get the fastener hot enough?
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
50/50 combination of ATF and acetone works very well. I'd tried PB blaster for two weeks on my carb with no luck. 12 hours after applying this concoction the screw was free
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I have not tried the butane torch on a winch. Concerned it might alter the color of the chrome or stainless.

I have recently read the same info about the blend of Acetone and ATF fluids 50/50. Never tried it but the combination makes chemical sense to me.
 
Oct 13, 2020
133
catalina C-22 4980 channel islands CA
A Mapp Gas torch will get it hot enough, maybe to hot. The trick is to use heat and beeswax. Beeswax can be bought at hardware and marine stores and has thousands of uses. Heat screws with a torch and then touch the beeswax to the screws. The trick is to heat the screws add some wax and then use heat add more wax. That way you don't have to overheat anything. The wax will penetrate much deaper the PB or any petroleum based penetrant. Look up using beeswax to remove rusty bolts on YouTube for more info. This works great on aluminum and stainless hardware.. I used this process on my c-22 mast to remove stuck screws and the Clevis pins in the mast head. It worked great no damage to the mast, masthead or the pins. Pins were original from 1974 and very stuck! A small hammer beeswax and a mapp gas torch was all that was needed. Then use Marelube Tef-45 to keep them from corroding on reassembly. You can find Marelube at west marine or Catalina Direct. You don't use much so a small sysringe goes a long way.



I included this link that has more info

Acetone and ATF is a great tool also. always good to try in situations where excess heat is a problem.
 
Mar 23, 2020
11
Hunter 30G Nanaimo
I had a seized stainless bolt in the quadrant of steering system last year. Applied heat with MAP torch then cooled with hose followed by penetrant spray several times over several days before it came loose.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
I had a seized stainless bolt in the quadrant of steering system last year. Applied heat with MAP torch then cooled with hose followed by penetrant spray several times over several days before it came loose.
Thanks for the tip, No Rush. By chance with the NYC?
 
Mar 23, 2020
11
Hunter 30G Nanaimo
A butane torch will be fine. It is about applying heat directly to the fastener and not to the shaft as best as possible and then cooling to try and induce some thermal shock due to varying expansion and cooling rates. As the fastener and shaft are the same material it is not as effective as dissimilar metals. I am assuming as it is a windlass, that the fastener is not very big, and a mini propane torch could provide well directed heat with the small but hot flame. Heat and cool to create some movement between the fastener and hole threads and allow a path for the penetrant. Be aware that when you reheat the penetrant will catch fire and flare up for a few seconds.
I did this several times and was trying to come up with plan b when there was a pop and the fastener was able to be loosened
 
Oct 2, 2008
3,807
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
I’ve been told Loctite red is often used and heat is needed to remove bolts or screws. I just relernt that again last month. Ditto on the Map gas, I need a grandchild aboard to remind me what I should know.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
I’ve been told Loctite red is often used and heat is needed to remove bolts or screws.
Hi Tom, no Loctite used on this fastener. Removed the machine screw several years ago just to inspect the assembly and then put it back together without any kind of applied chemical. Should have used an anti seize compound, but did not. No real reason to take it apart at this point, but just as a precaution in the event it has to come off.
 
Jan 24, 2017
666
Hunter 34 Toms River Nj
old auto motive trick is to place a few drops of antifreeze on whatever is seized.
The antifreeze has anti corrosive properties that breaks down rust and corrrosion. I've gotten out 35 year rusted bolts out with this trick.
If possible soak a cotton ball and let it sit on the bolt for a day or two try to remove it.

Good luck