I recently purchased a 1984 oday 25. The centerboard seems to be stuck in the "up" position. I tried snorkeling under and pulling on it with my hand but it wouldn't budge. Is there any way to access the board from topside and push it down? Any underwater methods to pull it out or make it drop? Help! I am most grateful for any suggestions on how to get it down. Thanking you in advance for your much appreciated help.- warren thames
- Status
You maybe can make an L shaped hook with a handle for you to pull on . I found that the fitting on the end of my centerboard penant was jamming on my Oday 23. I had to redrill the centerboard so that everthing lined up properly. I have not had any problems with the board sticking sense the fix. Harley
Any luck with centerboard?
Warren, Have you had any luck with the centerboard? I just purchased a 1978 O'day 23 with the same problem. I'm waiting for the water to warm up a little bit before going in. I'm curious to find out what worked with yours. Todd
Warren, Have you had any luck with the centerboard? I just purchased a 1978 O'day 23 with the same problem. I'm waiting for the water to warm up a little bit before going in. I'm curious to find out what worked with yours. Todd
Stuck??
First, I would tie off the center board to allow only about a foot of drop. If it swings too far, it might crack something. I would go to the hardware store and get some galvanized NO. 10 wire. It is pretty stiff and strong. I'd make a long narrow "U" about 18 in. or so in length. I think there is enough space on either side of the CB to slip the "U" up over the back end of the CB to hook it to pull the CB down with both hands. (The ends of the "U" act as handles.) I replaced the CB lanyard with 5/16 in. line and ran into jamming problems. Then I replace that with 1/4 in. line and have been trouble free for 2 years. The center board only weighs about 50 lb. at the most, so 1/4 in. line is plenty strong for the job.
First, I would tie off the center board to allow only about a foot of drop. If it swings too far, it might crack something. I would go to the hardware store and get some galvanized NO. 10 wire. It is pretty stiff and strong. I'd make a long narrow "U" about 18 in. or so in length. I think there is enough space on either side of the CB to slip the "U" up over the back end of the CB to hook it to pull the CB down with both hands. (The ends of the "U" act as handles.) I replaced the CB lanyard with 5/16 in. line and ran into jamming problems. Then I replace that with 1/4 in. line and have been trouble free for 2 years. The center board only weighs about 50 lb. at the most, so 1/4 in. line is plenty strong for the job.
Centerboard Problems
I had the same problem with my centerboard last year. I had the boat on a hoist and removed the board when I found it had to be pried down with a flat bar due to the accumulation of zebra mussles. I then found damage and delamination which caused the board to expand and stick against the well. It was relatively easy to repair on dry land. It is now like new and worked fine all last summer.
I had the same problem with my centerboard last year. I had the boat on a hoist and removed the board when I found it had to be pried down with a flat bar due to the accumulation of zebra mussles. I then found damage and delamination which caused the board to expand and stick against the well. It was relatively easy to repair on dry land. It is now like new and worked fine all last summer.
same problem with my 82
Mine was also stuck last summer, there seem to be two camps on the reasons the board gets stuck, but there are also two systems for raising/lowering the board. There is an older system on 70 something boats were you have to crank it up in the cabin by the mast area, then there is the 80s boats that have a laniard routed through the keel trunk either system is subject to the board expanding due to delamination, thats probably what is wrong with yours, if it winters out of the water it will be easy to get down when you first put it back in, then it will stick up on you later in the season. This problem needs to have the board removed and sanded and then re-epoxied so it doesn't leak or expand, I also need to do this in the spring so good luck.
Mine was also stuck last summer, there seem to be two camps on the reasons the board gets stuck, but there are also two systems for raising/lowering the board. There is an older system on 70 something boats were you have to crank it up in the cabin by the mast area, then there is the 80s boats that have a laniard routed through the keel trunk either system is subject to the board expanding due to delamination, thats probably what is wrong with yours, if it winters out of the water it will be easy to get down when you first put it back in, then it will stick up on you later in the season. This problem needs to have the board removed and sanded and then re-epoxied so it doesn't leak or expand, I also need to do this in the spring so good luck.
I agree with Tee Pee
My boat got off the mooring, caused by another boat fouling the mooring line, and it went aground. The centerboard was jambed not because of the size of the center board but the pennant terminal fittings that jambed together. I did just what tee pee did but with #6 copper. I slid it over the end of the rudder (after making the pennant fast with about a foot of slack) and pulled. Mine was a "78" and may have a different centerboard construction. Question for Dwight. Did you remove the zebra mussels from the centerboard and the keel housing or just the centerboard? r.w.landau
My boat got off the mooring, caused by another boat fouling the mooring line, and it went aground. The centerboard was jambed not because of the size of the center board but the pennant terminal fittings that jambed together. I did just what tee pee did but with #6 copper. I slid it over the end of the rudder (after making the pennant fast with about a foot of slack) and pulled. Mine was a "78" and may have a different centerboard construction. Question for Dwight. Did you remove the zebra mussels from the centerboard and the keel housing or just the centerboard? r.w.landau
A Last resort, but garenteed to work
I have heard of people drilling a 1" hole directly above the swing keel housing as far forward as you can, inserting a dowel or steel rod and whacking it free with a sledge hammer. The top of the housing should be above the water line so the repair should be quite trivial. Good luck!
I have heard of people drilling a 1" hole directly above the swing keel housing as far forward as you can, inserting a dowel or steel rod and whacking it free with a sledge hammer. The top of the housing should be above the water line so the repair should be quite trivial. Good luck!
Stuck?
Before doing anything to drastic, try using the cable trick. If it doesn't work, put the boat on the dry, drop the wedge plates and pull the centerboard. There are many things that can cause the centerboard to get stuck, the best way to fix it is to make sure you are doing the right repair. Also if you can't get the board free by trying to pull it down with a looped light cable(wire) get a scuba diver to give it a try. On scuba you can work it back an forth in the keel and may have a better chance getting it loose. Good Luck
Before doing anything to drastic, try using the cable trick. If it doesn't work, put the boat on the dry, drop the wedge plates and pull the centerboard. There are many things that can cause the centerboard to get stuck, the best way to fix it is to make sure you are doing the right repair. Also if you can't get the board free by trying to pull it down with a looped light cable(wire) get a scuba diver to give it a try. On scuba you can work it back an forth in the keel and may have a better chance getting it loose. Good Luck
I would not drill the hole.
The centerboard housing on the O'Day 25 is about 6" below the water line. r.w.landau
The centerboard housing on the O'Day 25 is about 6" below the water line. r.w.landau
Hello, it's me again!!
We haven't determined if the Center Board is swollen because of damage, or if there is an obstruction that prevents it from coming down. Perhaps you could "fish" or clear with a flat bar (1/2 or 3/4 in. by 1/8 in., found in most hardware stores) between the trunk and the CB to determine the problem. Round off any corners of the bar to prevent too many scratches.
We haven't determined if the Center Board is swollen because of damage, or if there is an obstruction that prevents it from coming down. Perhaps you could "fish" or clear with a flat bar (1/2 or 3/4 in. by 1/8 in., found in most hardware stores) between the trunk and the CB to determine the problem. Round off any corners of the bar to prevent too many scratches.
I had this happen to me
I had my center board get stuck, and I had to pull it down. What happened in my case was that we replaced the centerboard pendant with a new line. The old one had the wire going right into the back of the centerboard, but the new one came with a shackle that I had to attach to hole that I had to drill in the trailing edge of the centerboard. The origina shackle had a screw and nut that were too wide for the centerboard trunk, so when the centerboard was pulled up, the screw got wedged into the top of the trunk. the screw was later replaced with a clevis pin and cotter pin combination that was just about an eight of an inch shorter than the screw. This was enough to keep it from getting stuck. Anyway... How did I get the centerboard unstuck? Here is what I did... I took an old piece of wire from my old set of standing rigging, and made a large loop, maybe two feet in diameter. I took an crimped the wire at both ends to make it more football like in shape. I inserted the kinked end of the loop into the back of the centerboard trunk, then moved it forward to get it looped around the centerboard. I then was able to put the handle from my bilge pump through the other end of the loop, and pull down on the centerboard. It was extremely difficult, and was well wedged into place. I had a scuba tank on my back when I did this, and was actually standing upside down with my feet on either side of the keel. when the centerbard did come down, I moved swiftly out of the way to protect myself. However, it did not fall as quickly as I thought it might. Best of luck! Michael Gordon
I had my center board get stuck, and I had to pull it down. What happened in my case was that we replaced the centerboard pendant with a new line. The old one had the wire going right into the back of the centerboard, but the new one came with a shackle that I had to attach to hole that I had to drill in the trailing edge of the centerboard. The origina shackle had a screw and nut that were too wide for the centerboard trunk, so when the centerboard was pulled up, the screw got wedged into the top of the trunk. the screw was later replaced with a clevis pin and cotter pin combination that was just about an eight of an inch shorter than the screw. This was enough to keep it from getting stuck. Anyway... How did I get the centerboard unstuck? Here is what I did... I took an old piece of wire from my old set of standing rigging, and made a large loop, maybe two feet in diameter. I took an crimped the wire at both ends to make it more football like in shape. I inserted the kinked end of the loop into the back of the centerboard trunk, then moved it forward to get it looped around the centerboard. I then was able to put the handle from my bilge pump through the other end of the loop, and pull down on the centerboard. It was extremely difficult, and was well wedged into place. I had a scuba tank on my back when I did this, and was actually standing upside down with my feet on either side of the keel. when the centerbard did come down, I moved swiftly out of the way to protect myself. However, it did not fall as quickly as I thought it might. Best of luck! Michael Gordon
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
working under water
I have occasionally had the need to work under the boat, but do not have scuba. I have wondered about the safety of attaching a six foot line of similar sized ribbed tubing to the top of my snorkel and going under, exhaling of course through the nose piece of the mask, rather that through the snorkel to maintain fresh air in the intake hose. As indicated previously, I too would typically be standing on the bottom in about 5 or 6 feet of water with the hull submerged about 9 inches in the water. The top end of the tubing would either be tied to a float, or attached topsides to keep it free and clear... and above water. What would you scuba folks say about such a procedure?
I have occasionally had the need to work under the boat, but do not have scuba. I have wondered about the safety of attaching a six foot line of similar sized ribbed tubing to the top of my snorkel and going under, exhaling of course through the nose piece of the mask, rather that through the snorkel to maintain fresh air in the intake hose. As indicated previously, I too would typically be standing on the bottom in about 5 or 6 feet of water with the hull submerged about 9 inches in the water. The top end of the tubing would either be tied to a float, or attached topsides to keep it free and clear... and above water. What would you scuba folks say about such a procedure?
Don't do it
Breathing only through your nose to exhale when you are cold and exerting yourself will be difficult to control and you risk exhaling into the snorkel. Also if you are concentrating on your work and not your breathing you will have the same risk. The buildup of CO2 in the hose may knock you out and kill you. They sell a device that provides fresh air to snorkellers and you can buy it from various places. It is a compressor that runs on 12 volts and allows you to go about 20 feet deep using a hose with a regulator on it. It is not cheap however you can also use it to look at fish and stay under by putting a 12 volt battery in your inflatable and snorkelling wherever. Dave
Breathing only through your nose to exhale when you are cold and exerting yourself will be difficult to control and you risk exhaling into the snorkel. Also if you are concentrating on your work and not your breathing you will have the same risk. The buildup of CO2 in the hose may knock you out and kill you. They sell a device that provides fresh air to snorkellers and you can buy it from various places. It is a compressor that runs on 12 volts and allows you to go about 20 feet deep using a hose with a regulator on it. It is not cheap however you can also use it to look at fish and stay under by putting a 12 volt battery in your inflatable and snorkelling wherever. Dave
Extended snorkel
I too say don't try to extend a snorkel. First the risk of a breathing tube in excess of 15 inches does run the risk of CO2 build up. The biggest problem is the pressure from the water will prevent you from being able to inhale. The reason the scuba, and hooka diving works is you are breathing compressed air. The second stage regulator(the part in your mouth) delivers air at ambient pressure. Plain english the air pressure is equal to the water pressure. More than a foot or so down and you aren't stong enough to draw a breath without the air being compressed to ambient pressure. Don't try it.
I too say don't try to extend a snorkel. First the risk of a breathing tube in excess of 15 inches does run the risk of CO2 build up. The biggest problem is the pressure from the water will prevent you from being able to inhale. The reason the scuba, and hooka diving works is you are breathing compressed air. The second stage regulator(the part in your mouth) delivers air at ambient pressure. Plain english the air pressure is equal to the water pressure. More than a foot or so down and you aren't stong enough to draw a breath without the air being compressed to ambient pressure. Don't try it.
- Status