hi all , does anybody have the best technique for stripping that stuff? does it react to heat gun and scraper like varnish or is sand paper in my future. i plan to re-apply. youtube hasnt coughed up much on this subject
stripping cetol from teak
- Thread starter domer94
- Start date
I used both gel paint stripper and a heat gun later to get the rest.
I have never had the Cetol experience. So searching a “wooden boat” site I came across these experiences. They may help.
Thanks jssailem.
I saw this response on the thread you referenced:
Re: Removing Sikkens Cetol or HLS
I use Citris-Strip to remove Cetol from parts I can take off the boat. It's a gel and you leave it on for hours and let it work.....low rate of evaporation. Works great and probably does not cause brain tumors. Clean up with water.
I'll study up on the thread as the weather warms up!
I saw this response on the thread you referenced:
Re: Removing Sikkens Cetol or HLS
I use Citris-Strip to remove Cetol from parts I can take off the boat. It's a gel and you leave it on for hours and let it work.....low rate of evaporation. Works great and probably does not cause brain tumors. Clean up with water.
I'll study up on the thread as the weather warms up!
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I have used "Te-Ka" for decades. Cleaner Kit - 1 Quart Each A & B | West Marine
I have a blog entry with some pix over on the Ericson owners site.
ericsonyachts.org
I have a blog entry with some pix over on the Ericson owners site.
O34 - Another Fall, Another Bulkhead
Since we refinished the forward bulkhead last spring, it's time to start on the last major (and readily visible) teak-face bulkhead. This is the Aft one, facing into the main cabin. It has old screw holes which need to be teak-plugged, and is...
What? The entire reason I've used Cetol these many years is that you Never have to strip it off or do any sanding. Scrub it clean with some mild soap and a brush and then dash a few more coats on. Doesn't it say that right on the can?
CJE
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CJE
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It is not a stain, just a vapor permeable coating with lots of solids in it which obscures the grain in the wood. The original Cetol had a very objectionable orange tint. The current flavors of Cetol are less objectionable.
The only advantage to Cetol is its permeability. It allows vapor and air locked in to the wood to pass through it which helps to prevent the finish from lifting off the wood. Polyurethanes and more traditional varnishes are not permeable, so water vapor and air in the wood will cause the finish to bubble and crack, allowing more moisture into the wood which causes more bubbling and cracking.
Using Cetol can provoke some strong sentiment about varnish devotees.
36 grit on a block make quick work or it. Stop buying hardware store sandpaper. Go get some good 3m autobody paper with a sticky backing.
Bought a boat with a ton of teak. Previous owner had used Cetol and it hadn't been maintained. Used a Bahco carbide cabinet scraper and a heat gun. Definitely faster and more efficient than sanding. Used 1 step cleaner and brightener then Star Brite teak sealer. Matte natural finish. No film buildup.