Storm windows....

J

johnadenney

.
Oct 30, 2011
221
I would have bought them but Steve said they were out of stock... re-tooling? Not sure what that is...
I have fitted one of my more economical "storm" windows.. it looks like a drug dealers yacht (black perspex!).

Managed to get the outboard bracket back on and avoid fouling the Navik... it is not the ideal spot but it should work in an emergency (ie when the MD6 decides it has had enough!) and the swim ladder thing is also back on... so I have engine breakdown insurance and falling off the boat insurance. Anyone ever fallen off... must be a nightmare!!!!!!

pics here...
www.flickr.com

farmer boy

Explore farmer boy’s 444 photos on Flickr!
www.flickr.com www.flickr.com

I am getting fed up and tired now - everything takes so long... epoxy backing plates, sikaflex everywhere, nuts and bolts falling into the bilge and I must have been up and down that damned ladder a million times! If I am on the boat what I need is on the floor and vice versa... what a life!

Anyway... other window on tomorrow and then it is time to try and sort out the inside.. it is such a mess..all my doing! Good thing is I am having to "think" of what to do next.. they are not jumping at me all the time. Time for a shower......

John
 
S

schult.cindy

.
Oct 30, 2019
34
I work for a boat repair company located in the Caribbean. We replace
large hatches and windows on a regular bases with Acrylic mounted in a
frame or on the exterior of boats. Many of these windows are much larger
than those on a Vega. The keys for strong non-frame windows are to form
them to fit the shape of the fiberglass below, to overlap the fiberglass
(relative to the window size - not 1/4 inch for a 2 foot by 10 foot
window), to mount them with either Sikaflex or similar (per their specs -
primer etc.) or using automotive window mounting material, and to use a
material thick enough to manage the forces for the window size. I would
expect exterior mounted Vega-size windows to be about 3/8 inch thick.
Remember the window may also be a structural component. If so, the design
must compensate. Though I doubt the windows lent much to the structure of
a Vega given the original mounting method.

Food for thought . . . .
 
T

tomfentonvega2977beowulf

.
Aug 29, 2011
103
Thank you Cindy. I shall never cease to be amazed by, and grateful for, the
breadth and depth of knowledge, skill, good sense and experience of the
people who watch and contribute to this group.

Steve, great news. Looking forward to hearing more...

Tom
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
I realize that everyone's budget, timelines and expected end result are different. I'm amazed and jealous at how quickly Johnny has been able to prep his Vega. I have just over a year left before I retire and can spend much of my time sailing. My direction has been to take my time and have an end result that I won't have to do any major work to after I retire.

I also bought new windows from Steve and they were a great investment and worth even having them shipped to the US. I did the windows toward the beginning of my rebuild project, which seems like a lifetime ago, when I hadn't had as much experience working on the boat. Even with me doing the install by myself, the windows went in easy. They are in there to stay and look great. If I ever find a wave that can take them out, that will be the least of my worries. There are pictures of them on my website.

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Ric,
Nice web site, and nice windows!
Looking at the head rebuild photos you mention the hull is cored, clearly shown in the photos. Is this a "Series II" feature? My hull is solid glass ... just curious!

Peter
www.sintacha.com
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Peter,
I thought it looked like it was cored when I did the work and took the pictures, but it is more likely fiberglass mat. That was one of my early jobs and there was enough grime that it looked like plywood. However, since I dealt with the dry rot in the cabin top I realized the texture was all wrong when I cut it back.

Now that I did all that work, I'm going to take the thru-hulls out and seal the holes. I've decided to install a Nature's Head so I don't have to deal with holding tanks, thru-hulls, and plugged up heads. At least that's the plan for now. I won't tackle that until I replace the starboard side main bulkhead, after finishing the port side of the main cabin. That gives me some time to change my mind again. :)

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Peter,
I thought it looked like it was cored when I did the work and took the pictures, but it is more likely fiberglass mat. That was one of my early jobs and there was enough grime that it looked like plywood. However, since I dealt with the dry rot in the cabin top I realized the texture was all wrong when I cut it back.

Now that I did all that work, I'm going to take the thru-hulls out and seal the holes. I've decided to install a Nature's Head so I don't have to deal with holding tanks, thru-hulls, and plugged up heads. At least that's the plan for now. I won't tackle that until I replace the starboard side main bulkhead, after finishing the port side of the main cabin. That gives me some time to change my mind again. :)

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
I looked at composting heads (Air Head and Natures Head)and came to the same conclussion on the height problem. On the Ballad project I could probably get one in, but have scaled back on large expenditures until I I get some sailing time in to see how I like the boat. For now it's a borrowed stove from the Vega, hank-on headsails, and a porta-pot :)
But I have replaced all the thru-hulls, just to leave my options open.

Peter
www.sintacha.com
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Doug,
You are right about the Nature's Head being taller. I took the measurements and played with them in the compartment. The base is somewhat narrower front to back and with the thru-hull valve gone it can sit lower. Their turn hadle only sticks out a couple of inches on the right so it will fit and function from side to side also. Before I buy one, I'll do a mock up of it, put it in place, see what the room looks like and it I can sit on it. I'm 6'2", but mostly legs. :) Thanks for the thoughts.

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
S

SVFlyAway

.
Oct 31, 2019
303
I own an Airhead. It is 19 inches tall, the Nature's head is one inch
taller. I am using the same height platform as standard (replaced the wood
with high density, 1/2 inch plastic) and I find I have to bend my head to
fit in (I am 6 foot). I also find my feet don't reach the main cabin sole.
Not a problem as I can easily make a foot riser of some sort.

The biggest problem I have is with the vent. I have never had a problem
with having it on the cabin top, but I decided to run it to the stern. I
actually built an "inside the cabin" dorade vent to sit above the coat rack
locker across from the head. I didn't have room for the vent and me in the
head compartment, even without the dorade. I could have put an outside
dorade, but still had the space problem in the head compartment because of
the fan holder, I was always bumping my head on it.

I talked with the Airhead designer (can't remember his name) about the
long run to the stern and he said they have had installations with a 20
foot run. Now the hose on the Airhead seems to be the same size as on
Nature's head. It fits nicely with PVC fittings. And, buying flexible PVC
pipe ( or hose since it is flexible) is way cheaper than buying longer hose
from Airhead. So I am using the Airhead hose from the head for a few feet
to the PVC. The Airhead hose fits nice and snug and just a little silicon
or epoxy will seal it well I am told. Then PVC back to the dorade (with
the fan). I have an unused Nicro fan unit I might use also, but I am told
it isn't necessary.

I am going to still build a dorade of sorts for the stern (which I probably
don't need to do). I am now playing with a design where I use ABS plastic
pipe fittings -- 3 or 4 inch. I'll probably end up building a wooden, or
glass box however.

It has been most interesting to work on the project.

Chris
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Chris,
How long have you had the Airhead? Aside from the height issue, how well does the head actually work? I really like the idea of no pumpout requirements or the potential plumbing issues of a regular head.
Thanks,

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
S

SVFlyAway

.
Oct 31, 2019
303
I've actually had it for a few years and, I must admit I am still
installing it. My sailing of late has been only short daysails as I am
working on the boat. It wasn't a project boat until I started messing with
things :) (Right now I am rewiring and also putting in a new fuel tank).
Anyway,I have used an Airhead on another boat, that is why bought mine. On
that boat there was virtually no odor problem. It is easy to use just
adding the peat moss. I can't comment on how long it would go between
emptying out. If I were going to sail offshore mostly, I wouldn't go with
one since dumping isn't a problem, either legally or environmentally when
well offshore. But I just got tired of pumping the tank out all too often
in the Puget Sound.

The biggest problem is fitting it in the Vega as there is so little room.
I've tried a couple scenarios and always had a problem with the hand crank.
But now I think I've solved that by using a ratcheting socket wrench. The
design changed on the new ones and I am not sure how it would work as there
seems to be some sort of adapter that I didn't need.

Also keep in mind that liquid and solids have to be separated and the
liquid container is rather small. There are three little holes (say 1 Inch)
at the front of the bowl that lead to the little jug (holding maybe a
couple quarts). I guess some folks actually have plumbed the liquids to
small holding tank. I sail alone as my wife "retired" from sailing. But I
don't think my wife would be all that keen on the arrangement and having to
keep liquids and solids separate (although many women use the Airhead and
are really happy with them -- got to be careful not to get anyone mad at
me!!).

My friend was was boarded by the CG one time. Of course one of the first
things they wanted to see was that his head thru hull was wired shut. It
took him a little explaining that he didn't have one and didn't need one.

Chris
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Chris,
It says on the Air Head website that they now offer a ratchet as an option to the longer crank handle, so I guess many people had that same space issue. On the Nature's Head, they use a 3 spoke handle that doesn't stick out more than an inch or so. I have read several reviews of both and the Nature's Head seemed to come across better. Practical Sailor did a test of the Air Head, but the Nature's Head wasn't out at that time so they haven't compared the two in the same type of testing. They did have good things to say about the Air Head though.

I, like you, will be doing a lot of single handing. I do plan on doing off shore sailing, but will do lots of local sailing also. With Catalina and the Channel Islands close by, they make for great local escapes.

Thanks, for the insight. And, believe me I understand project boats. Next month I hit my 2 year anniversary of buying and undertaking this project. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. I love working on the boat and learning new things.

If anyone has used the Nature's Head, please share your experiences.

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
I looked into both and the main downside I could see on the Nature's Head was that to remove the urine container one has to lift the main lid to the solids reservoir. On the Air Head I think it just flips out without opening the lid to the 'pit'.

Lovely stuff ;-)

Peter
www.sintacha.com
 
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