storm jib

[vegatern]

Chris
The second reef is done the same as the first, through it\'s own
separate blocks etc. For two reefs I might bring them down on opposite
sides of the boom and back to opposite sides of the companion way, to
keep them well separate. The one issue I have with the way the boat
is rigged is that because everything comes back to the cockpit, and
everything meets at the mast bail first, it is possible for the line
I\'m working to grab a bight of a slack line and pull it into the
working sheave, jamming it. So I pay attention to slack lines. I will
fix that someday by re-aligning the lines and moving some off the mast
bail onto deck blocks. I am interested in what you have designed at
the mast step David. It sounds like a clean solution. I had thought
of adding another bail a bit higher on the mast, but haven\'t. Holes in
the coach roof are drilled out with a spade bit the size of the bolts
washer, the cavity filled with fortified resin, the bolt hole drilled
through that and backed up with a fender washer or aluminum plate. The
result is probably stronger than the original skin and foam core, and
mistakes can be fixed with resin and paint. Each line that comes
through the splash guard ( reefs, halyards, downhaul, cunningham ,boom
vang, topping lift) has it\'s own hole, ½" I think , reamed out a bit
with a rattail file, swabbed well with resin and painted. All in all,
I\'m well pleased with the setup.
Craig #1519 Tern

 

[fotofundi]

Hi Chris & Kerin

The promised photos are available at:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AlbinVega/photos/browse/3e4a?c= (sorry it doesn't want to convert into a link, copy and paste it into your browser)

Here is a brief explanation

Photo 1. This shows the temporary rig for getting the sail control ropes to feed into the organiser at the correct height. I found a galvanised clamp in the local hardware shop that I believe is used to clamp two pipes together. It was made for a 4? " pipe and with some slight bending fitted the mast beautifully. It came with the rubber gasket and has been positioned under the existing rope cleats, which stop it from riding up the mast when under pressure. I used two 6mm s/steel nuts and bolts to clamp it on with, threading the eye of the triple block through the aft one.

Photo 2 shows the path of the ropes for the sail control. The green with yellow flick is the topping lift, the solid green is the kicker ? and as you can see this is threaded off the bottom kicker block up through the centre sheave while the white with green and black fleck is the mainsail halyard. Both this and the topping lift come down the mast and around the bottom of the sheaves.
You will see that the triple block has a becket that the kicker rubs against, I don?t want to cut this off until I have devised a better system for securing the blocks to the mast. Current thoughts are that the kicker will use a separate block, but the triple will do for the time being.

Photo 3 shows the 3-way organiser. This is secured with three 8mm machine screws that go all the way through the coachroof.

Photo 4 shows the lines coming back to the clutch and winch

Photo 5 shows the mounting block for the clutch and winch. Note the winch is angled back slightly (about 10 degrees) to make the ropes feed onto the winch without causing riding turns. Both items are bolted to the Iroko plinth, which is then through-bolted using five 8mm nuts and machine screws ? shown from above in photo 6.

Photo 8 shows the reefing lines coming down to a double block on the Port side attached to a bottle screw fastened to the mast heel plate and adjusted to get the right height to feed the lines through a double organiser on the Port side of the Coachroof.

Photo 9 shows the organiser on its spacer that is secured by two 8mm nuts and machine screws through the coachroof.

Photo 10 shows the small Spinlock clutch and winchfeeder on a smaller flat topped plinth. The Spinlock clutch is really too small for the job and will be replaced with something more suitable. The winchfeeder is through-bolted using its own 12mm bolt and the front of the plinth is secured with two 8mm nuts and machine screws through the coachroof.

The final photo shows how the reefing lines are lead around the winchfeeder, across the companionway and onto the winch. Once tightened and held by the clutch they can be stowed on the Port side bulkhead

At present all the plinths are bolted down using rubber gaskets cut from an old lorry inner tube to provide a water seal between the plinths and the coachroof but once I am satisfied that everything is OK I will strengthen the holes and use a sealing/adhesive compound.

Took ?Little Star? out in a 1215 knot wind yesterday and raised the main and reefed her in using the set up and it worked a treat. Had to use a boathook to clear a jammed mainsail slide and I need to clean up the mainsail track so the sail comes down cleanly but apart from that I am pleased with the results so far and the clamp around the mast, despite my misgivings, has not distorted (yet!).

Hope all this helps

David

 

[fotofundi]

Hi Craig

I have put some photos on the web of my set up, see

Loading…

ph.groups.yahoo.com

The method I have used to turn the mainsail ropes near the foot of the
mast is a temporary rig only. It has withstood 3 hours of sailing in
1215 knots of wind but I would not want to rely on it in a real blow.
This set up should last until the end of the summer when I will unstep
the mast and try designing something more robust. For the same reasons
I am using a triple block that will be replaced with a single for the
kicker and a double for the topping lift/main halyard. Another method
would be to mount cheek blocks either side of the mast in place of the
original cleats and put in a central organiser to control all the
ropes going back to the cockpit, but at this stage I did not want to
remove the cleats and it would mean another turn on the ropes without
any real benefit. With the present set-up the pressure of the kicker
which comes up from the bottom block and over the central sheave
counter ballances the pressure of the main halyard to a certain
extent, which relieves the strain on the 6mm bolt securing the band
around the mast to which the triple block is attached. This band is a
galvanised 4 1/2" pipe clamp suitably bent to shape that I bought from
a local hardware store.

The Spinlock clutch for the reefing lines is not ideal and will be
replaced with something more robust. Five 8mm machine screws hold the
wooden block with the three-way clutch and winch to the coachroof
while the 12mm bolt that the winchfeeder revolves around plus two 8mm
machine screws hold the smaller wooden block in position on the Port
side. All the other machine screws - mostly 6mm, are secured with
penny washers and self locking nuts in recesses in the underside of
the wooden blocks.

Cheers

David

 

[fotofundi]

Chris

To avoid a long winded description here I have sent you a separate
email explaining the photos which can be viewed at:

Loading…

ph.groups.yahoo.com

If you have any questions please let me know

Cheers

David
V1696

 

[vegatern]

Thanks for the pictures David. I appreciate it. Craig

 

[albinvega1865]

Great Photos and explanations David! Thanks so much for both. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I have been single handing for the past week up the coast of New England and have been out of touch!

Looks like a well though out system!
Chris

David Runyard dr@... wrote: Hi Craig

I have put some photos on the web of my set up, see

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AlbinVega/photos/browse/3e4a?c=

The method I have used to turn the mainsail ropes near the foot of the
mast is a temporary rig only. It has withstood 3 hours of sailing in
1215 knots of wind but I would not want to rely on it in a real blow.
This set up should last until the end of the summer when I will unstep
the mast and try designing something more robust. For the same reasons
I am using a triple block that will be replaced with a single for the
kicker and a double for the topping lift/main halyard. Another method
would be to mount cheek blocks either side of the mast in place of the
original cleats and put in a central organiser to control all the
ropes going back to the cockpit, but at this stage I did not want to
remove the cleats and it would mean another turn on the ropes without
any real benefit. With the present set-up the pressure of the kicker
which comes up from the bottom block and over the central sheave
counter ballances the pressure of the main halyard to a certain
extent, which relieves the strain on the 6mm bolt securing the band
around the mast to which the triple block is attached. This band is a
galvanised 4 1/2" pipe clamp suitably bent to shape that I bought from
a local hardware store.

The Spinlock clutch for the reefing lines is not ideal and will be
replaced with something more robust. Five 8mm machine screws hold the
wooden block with the three-way clutch and winch to the coachroof
while the 12mm bolt that the winchfeeder revolves around plus two 8mm
machine screws hold the smaller wooden block in position on the Port
side. All the other machine screws - mostly 6mm, are secured with
penny washers and self locking nuts in recesses in the underside of
the wooden blocks.

Cheers

David

 

[mphalv]

Same system I use. I would prefer not to go forward but I can reef in under
two minutes. I reef early because the boat sails so well when reefed.

Paul
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