The engine is a Universal M12 in an O'Day 28. It almost takes two hands to pull the stop lever. Greasing the lever shaft helps only a bit. The engine connection end moves freely. Anyone seen this; if so how fix?
Stop Lever difficult
- Thread starter odaydokay
- Start date
In several cases I saw (actually felt) corrosion limiting the sliding of the inner wire of the cable. The casing was worn through in one case, and there was rust apparent in another cable cover.
One of the diesel engine supply companies (Marine Diesel Direct, Mack Boring, or some Universal or Kubota dealer) might have a replacement. Measure the length needed. A bit too long is better than too short.
If you have already checked for easy movement at the lever and at the engine end, then I would suspect the cable between them is at fault. In both boats where I needed to change the cable it had a round knob on the end, not a lever.
One of the diesel engine supply companies (Marine Diesel Direct, Mack Boring, or some Universal or Kubota dealer) might have a replacement. Measure the length needed. A bit too long is better than too short.
If you have already checked for easy movement at the lever and at the engine end, then I would suspect the cable between them is at fault. In both boats where I needed to change the cable it had a round knob on the end, not a lever.
The cable slides inside a coiled wire sheeting, water gets in there and causes corrosion. When it gets to the point that it hardly moves then it is best to replace it. Once you remove the cable you can clean and lubricate the lever mechanism but continuing to use force on it may damage it prematurely. When removing the cable do follow how it is routed so you can replace it. Do measure it before purchasing a new one. In the mean time you can continue to operate the boat just shut it down manually at the engine.
what you need to know is the length of the cable which is probably a 3300 series cable. When ordering or purchasing that 3300 series cable make sure you know the exact length. If too much you are ok but if short, oh heck.
Much obliged, fellas! I did read that good practice is to disconnect the wire (not the sleeve in its retainer, however) and pull it out, grease it from time to time. I have the complete service manual on the Uni M12 and of course it says nothing about that so I just went on my merry way. I will do a measurement as you all suggested, go long if in doubt, and replace it. The current setup uses a T-handle, but a round handle should work just as well. No sense paying $120 for something that will work fine at $30, right?
In the motorcycle world, lubricating control cables (brakes, throttle, etc.), either as you've suggested or with a simple oil-injector setup, is an integral part of routine maintenance. Same thing applies to their use on boats... but it is usually overlooked there.
I would add that in boats the maintenance is more critical when you have to deal with salt water.
Don't put it off like I did ... I eventually broke the plastic control panel by pulling out the stop knob (with my old panel). Now with new engine and new panel, I simply press a button and to shut her down.
Ouch! I did not know one could break the panel. My t-handle does move out with effort, must be pushed back in, however. I am 99% sure the issue is in the handle shaft and its housing, i.e. where the handle steel shaft slides in and out or is supposed to. The wire at the engine end is bent 90% after the mounting hold and is completely free of corrosion. To check my theory, can I unbend that wire so is is straight, pull the t-handle farther out and polish and grease it if the wire inside the cable seems to move fine?
Replacement probably better, but if the handle shaft and its tunnel are the issue, I need one in stainless, not one like I already have. Salt air is a killer, we all know that.
Lubing just part of the system will likely not solve the problem. Just disconnect the inner cable at the engine, pull it out, and clean and lube the entire length.
I see your point. When I unbend that 90 degree bend and afterward try to re-bend it, even given that it is corrosion free is it likely to accept that without breaking?
Can't guarantee it, but the inner cable is likely made of mild steel that can stand a few gentle re-bendings without "work hardening" and breaking. If it hasn't been bent and re-bent repeatedly at that point, you should be OK.
It likely never should have been bent in the first place. Usually, the fuel shutoff lever end of the cable is secured with a set screw, and leaving it unbent allows for adjustment.
if it's a morse cable it has a ss core wire...if you can get it out of its sheath you may be able to put it on a hard wood block and with a wooden mallet straighten it out...if you use a steel hammer you will more than likely bend it or flatten it to where it is not going to work in the sheath or even go in
It's been a few years so I don't exactly recall. The knob became pretty stiff and the plastic panel stressed and finally broke when I pulled the knob out. I was left with a hole in the panel around the knob. We had to grip the knob and the shaft using 2 hands to stop the engine. I think at that point, I finally used a dry spray lube on the cable just at the exposed end, which made shutting down a whole lot easier - and made me feel idiotic for not addressing it before I broke the panel (I'm glad it didn't break when Sue was at the helm). I was going to rebuild a panel, but we re-powered so it became a moot issue. I still have the damaged panel, which goes with the old engine - pending a re-build.
It didn't help that the panel cover loosened and exposed the panel to wet weather occasionally. That was another upgrade that I considered to be more of an immediate need after I damaged the panel. There's always sumptin' with these old boats!
It didn't help that the panel cover loosened and exposed the panel to wet weather occasionally. That was another upgrade that I considered to be more of an immediate need after I damaged the panel. There's always sumptin' with these old boats!
The motor has never been out of the boat so I guess that is the way they did it back then (90 degree bend). I guess I will try shooting some lube into the engine end as there is no downside. If NG, then I will try to straighten the bend and pull the lever/shaft out a ways. That will tell me a bit about where the issue is I would think. Might have to replace the whole cable but that will be a PITA I think. The $ are not the issue.