Launching my new water ballast 260 last year for just the second time, I couldn't get it to back off of the trailer. I thought it was because the lake was so shallow, not enough to float it off the trailer. Using legs and back together, I estimate that I put about 200-300+ pounds of force to try to back it off the trailer bed, several times, over about 50 minutes. No luck. Then I discovered that I'd left the swing keel rope slack. Duh. The keel had popped down (after slipping past the center bed) and wedged straight against a cross strut on the trailer. The keel appeared generally O.K., though there was a slight impression. But when I sailed last summer there was an intermittent tremor or shudder that seemed to come from the keel. Not wobbly, but like it was resonating maybe 5-10 cycles per second. Happened maybe 10% of the time. Annoying and must slow the boat down. How do I check the alignment of the swing keel? Is this something for someone more experienced than me? Other than that, I had a blast sailing last summer and love the boat. Thanks -Greg
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Greg Stebbins
I'm picking up good vibrations....
Hey Greg, Greg here. I get the same low freq vibs ocasionally when I get my 23 up on plane. It seems to happen at or over 10kts. It's hard to be sure though. Under those conditions things are usually busy and serious. At what hull speed do you get the vibs?
Hey Greg, Greg here. I get the same low freq vibs ocasionally when I get my 23 up on plane. It seems to happen at or over 10kts. It's hard to be sure though. Under those conditions things are usually busy and serious. At what hull speed do you get the vibs?
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Gary Adams
sing me a tune....
I am not sure if this will hit the problem but, on alot of Hobie Cats the rudders get the same singing or vibration. It is caused from the trailing edge. To fix this problem I simply recut the trailing edge using a piece of metal with a v notch in it. It will dress the edge and eliminate the vibration and singing. Gary
I am not sure if this will hit the problem but, on alot of Hobie Cats the rudders get the same singing or vibration. It is caused from the trailing edge. To fix this problem I simply recut the trailing edge using a piece of metal with a v notch in it. It will dress the edge and eliminate the vibration and singing. Gary
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Dave Condon
Don't worry
I have once forgotten to make sure the centerboard line sometimes called the cascade line to be tight when launching. Doubt seriously that you did any damage but if concerened, then take the boat to a yard with a lift and look underneath. Also, make sure that the seal which the compressin post sits on inside the cabin underneath the cover plate was nnot broken.. You will be able to determine if you are getting water inside. On many boats with a centerboard line whether metal or line, if loose, it will sing. Tighten up on the line. If this does not stop it, thne the only other thing could be the big bolt not tightened all the way that holds the centerboard and housing. Crazy Dave
I have once forgotten to make sure the centerboard line sometimes called the cascade line to be tight when launching. Doubt seriously that you did any damage but if concerened, then take the boat to a yard with a lift and look underneath. Also, make sure that the seal which the compressin post sits on inside the cabin underneath the cover plate was nnot broken.. You will be able to determine if you are getting water inside. On many boats with a centerboard line whether metal or line, if loose, it will sing. Tighten up on the line. If this does not stop it, thne the only other thing could be the big bolt not tightened all the way that holds the centerboard and housing. Crazy Dave
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Steve
Centerboard Wear and Tear??
In line with the alinement concern, How much "play" is normal in the centerboard? My 26 has some play when grabbed underwater when lightly pushed and pulled. (+- 2") I suspect that the pin/bolt horiziontal sleave must wear from use. Does any one know or have experience at the service life or wear tolarances before the centerboard should be droped out and rehabed before damage occures. Thanks in advance
In line with the alinement concern, How much "play" is normal in the centerboard? My 26 has some play when grabbed underwater when lightly pushed and pulled. (+- 2") I suspect that the pin/bolt horiziontal sleave must wear from use. Does any one know or have experience at the service life or wear tolarances before the centerboard should be droped out and rehabed before damage occures. Thanks in advance
Question for Greg S. re: singing rudder
I used to get a low very frequency vibe from the rudder on my Missile (16 ft dinghy) when it was on plane, and I get a similar vibe from my H23 at a little under 6 kts. That's as fast as I can make her go, and I know I am definitely not planing. I am extremely curious... how do you go about getting a 23 up on plane, as I was not aware that it could be done. Do I need a spinnaker? Peter s/v Raven
I used to get a low very frequency vibe from the rudder on my Missile (16 ft dinghy) when it was on plane, and I get a similar vibe from my H23 at a little under 6 kts. That's as fast as I can make her go, and I know I am definitely not planing. I am extremely curious... how do you go about getting a 23 up on plane, as I was not aware that it could be done. Do I need a spinnaker? Peter s/v Raven
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Greg Stebbins
Peter - Da plane! Da plane! - Greg
Peter, I first picked up on this from an old field guide to sail boats. The last line under the Hunter 23 was “The 23 will plane”. Kinda like a warning Huh? The deal is, 23’s are really light, overpowered, flat-bottomed boats (check the specs) Ready to experiment? If you’ve go enough wind in your aria (and I can’t imagine you don’t) then it’s easy. You don’t need a spinnaker given 18-25 knot winds. Below that I use a spanker but there’s a problem with that setup I’ll get into later. Given the right wind conditions, you can get up on plane if your pretty much flat. That means on a reach. The whole trick is to get enough of the hull out of the water to allow your boat to accelerate to planing speed. You need a following sea. I think that’s what it’s called. The waves need to be going roughly in the same direction you are because you’re going to ride one up to speed. Set your course, set your sails perfectly (no reefing – you need the power), pick your wave and move everybody as far aft as possible which will bring the bow up a little. As you crest the wave, move all forward to the hatch (did I mention you need a tiller extension?) and wait for it. If it worked, you should get a low freq hum from the hull and your knot meter will start to climb fast. After about 7.8-8.0 knots, you’re committed and you should be able to see and hear a roar, which is the bow wave just in front of your stubby little keel and in view between the cabin and the winch. Some where around here you’ll notice the boat really wants to broach, and I mean REALLY wants to broach. If you can keep it under control, you’ll continue to accelerate up to 10+ kts. With the broach under control (Ha!) you start to look for somebody to pass. After all you’re almost out of control, making all kinds of noise and just about the fastest little cruiser around. If you think you’ve got a broach problem with the 110, you wont believe what you get into with a spanker. You can’t really understand the phrase “tiger by the tail” till you try it. Notes: Have the winch handle in the winch. You can’t do anything to the jib sheet by hand. If your jib sheet cleats are marginal use something else. If you jib blocks aren’t rated to a minimum of about 600 lbs. (mine are 2200 lbs) Don’t try this. All standing rigging should be in good shape (no bends) Go to the bathroom before you start.
Peter, I first picked up on this from an old field guide to sail boats. The last line under the Hunter 23 was “The 23 will plane”. Kinda like a warning Huh? The deal is, 23’s are really light, overpowered, flat-bottomed boats (check the specs) Ready to experiment? If you’ve go enough wind in your aria (and I can’t imagine you don’t) then it’s easy. You don’t need a spinnaker given 18-25 knot winds. Below that I use a spanker but there’s a problem with that setup I’ll get into later. Given the right wind conditions, you can get up on plane if your pretty much flat. That means on a reach. The whole trick is to get enough of the hull out of the water to allow your boat to accelerate to planing speed. You need a following sea. I think that’s what it’s called. The waves need to be going roughly in the same direction you are because you’re going to ride one up to speed. Set your course, set your sails perfectly (no reefing – you need the power), pick your wave and move everybody as far aft as possible which will bring the bow up a little. As you crest the wave, move all forward to the hatch (did I mention you need a tiller extension?) and wait for it. If it worked, you should get a low freq hum from the hull and your knot meter will start to climb fast. After about 7.8-8.0 knots, you’re committed and you should be able to see and hear a roar, which is the bow wave just in front of your stubby little keel and in view between the cabin and the winch. Some where around here you’ll notice the boat really wants to broach, and I mean REALLY wants to broach. If you can keep it under control, you’ll continue to accelerate up to 10+ kts. With the broach under control (Ha!) you start to look for somebody to pass. After all you’re almost out of control, making all kinds of noise and just about the fastest little cruiser around. If you think you’ve got a broach problem with the 110, you wont believe what you get into with a spanker. You can’t really understand the phrase “tiger by the tail” till you try it. Notes: Have the winch handle in the winch. You can’t do anything to the jib sheet by hand. If your jib sheet cleats are marginal use something else. If you jib blocks aren’t rated to a minimum of about 600 lbs. (mine are 2200 lbs) Don’t try this. All standing rigging should be in good shape (no bends) Go to the bathroom before you start.
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Eric Jensen
Singing a tune Second
Greg, I am pretty sure you are hearing is a low Freq. response to the turbulence generated by the "impression" you added to the CB. I also have experianced the Hobie vibration, I tapperd the trailing edge to a knife edge, it worked completly. I believe you can ignor it or drop the board and file it sharp or add the V notch to the trailing edge as you prefer I think either will work. Good luck.
Greg, I am pretty sure you are hearing is a low Freq. response to the turbulence generated by the "impression" you added to the CB. I also have experianced the Hobie vibration, I tapperd the trailing edge to a knife edge, it worked completly. I believe you can ignor it or drop the board and file it sharp or add the V notch to the trailing edge as you prefer I think either will work. Good luck.
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Jim
Experience from a Catalina22
I used to have a Catalina 22 (now have a Hunter 23). The CAT 22 had a swing keel (not a centerboard but a pivoting keel.) If you got going good, the cable for that would start singing. I found the best way to reduce it was to tighten the keel bolt and then the line that lifted the keel. Since I don't have a Hunter 260, don't know if you have the former (a big wingnut that tighten to keep the keel from swinging). Good luck.
I used to have a Catalina 22 (now have a Hunter 23). The CAT 22 had a swing keel (not a centerboard but a pivoting keel.) If you got going good, the cable for that would start singing. I found the best way to reduce it was to tighten the keel bolt and then the line that lifted the keel. Since I don't have a Hunter 260, don't know if you have the former (a big wingnut that tighten to keep the keel from swinging). Good luck.
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