My throttle lever is extremely hard to move when increasing the power. When I get it up to crusing speed, it will slowly move back, decreasing the engine speed. When you disconnect the cable at the engine, the lever and cable moves freely. I have put a clamp on the cable, to give it more resistance, so it won't autmatically retard. When I increase the tension enough so the the throtle won't retard on its own, it is not possible to move the lever to increase RPM's. It't like the throttle lever on the engine is to stiff to move properly.
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aah that lever
I had similar circumstances. To solve the "lever creep" I cut holes in a tennis ball and slid it onto the lever. The other problem may be a problem I found out about the hard way. You may want to take off your compass and make sure that the throttle lever cable casing is "anchored" by an aluminum prong-like fitting in the pedestal. In my case the guys who assembled the boat never installed the prong -which held the casing in place as the lever would push-pull the cable. Hence I was flexing (more like bending) the cable before it got into the casing and "of course in a storm" it broke from metal fatigue. Check it out...you may have that prong but maybe the casing has slipped out of the anchor on the prong. J. McCue s/v Safeharbor
I had similar circumstances. To solve the "lever creep" I cut holes in a tennis ball and slid it onto the lever. The other problem may be a problem I found out about the hard way. You may want to take off your compass and make sure that the throttle lever cable casing is "anchored" by an aluminum prong-like fitting in the pedestal. In my case the guys who assembled the boat never installed the prong -which held the casing in place as the lever would push-pull the cable. Hence I was flexing (more like bending) the cable before it got into the casing and "of course in a storm" it broke from metal fatigue. Check it out...you may have that prong but maybe the casing has slipped out of the anchor on the prong. J. McCue s/v Safeharbor
Throttle slippage
I also experienced stiffness in the throttle lever on my Hunter 31' that got worse over time. I took the compass off so I could get to the top of the cable and let WD 40 and cable lube work its way down the cable. This worked so well that the cable then began slipping! I now use a short bungy cord looped around the pedestal and the throttle handle to hold it.
I also experienced stiffness in the throttle lever on my Hunter 31' that got worse over time. I took the compass off so I could get to the top of the cable and let WD 40 and cable lube work its way down the cable. This worked so well that the cable then began slipping! I now use a short bungy cord looped around the pedestal and the throttle handle to hold it.
Second Dan's Comments..
.. that is exactly what I did on my V32, that is what the result was and I remedied it the same way. I have seen throttle bungies on million dollar yachts, so do not feel alone. I have on on my 40.5 depite installing a cable brake (clamp). Good luck. Rick D.
.. that is exactly what I did on my V32, that is what the result was and I remedied it the same way. I have seen throttle bungies on million dollar yachts, so do not feel alone. I have on on my 40.5 depite installing a cable brake (clamp). Good luck. Rick D.
After you get rid of the corrosion...
you should probably put a proper cable clamp on the throttle cable. I was told by my Yanmar guy not to use the traditional clamp. These just crush the housing (probably why most of us have the corrosion problem). For the 2gm/3gm engines we should use a Morse Cable Clamp. These are designed for the cable. They are part number 44386 and you should specify a series 30. The price is about $16. I have not got mine yet. They are on back order.
you should probably put a proper cable clamp on the throttle cable. I was told by my Yanmar guy not to use the traditional clamp. These just crush the housing (probably why most of us have the corrosion problem). For the 2gm/3gm engines we should use a Morse Cable Clamp. These are designed for the cable. They are part number 44386 and you should specify a series 30. The price is about $16. I have not got mine yet. They are on back order.
Look for tension screw
On our 1991 37.5 we had this same problem and I was told about the set screw inside the pedestal (Edson) on the throttle shaft boss. It can be tightened to put pressure on the shaft rather than the cable. I found that ours had threads stripped out so I drilled it larger and tapped it to a larger thread. I also added two other set screws and put them in place over some sacrificial plastic pins which ride on and protect the shaft. It is almost too tight now but does not slip. If you have a different pedestal, you might do something similar. I do not like the idea of clamping the cable since it will cause wear in a place which is essential for control of the engine. Our shift cable once broke unexpectedly and it was a time consuming fix and could have been quite dangerous as we were entering the Ballard large locks at the time. Luckily, we caught the wall and only had to deal with the logistics of getting a replacement and spend an afternoon doing a task which we did not expect. If your cable is rusty, I hope you will at least get a replacement to have with you if it fails. They are not expensive and can be hard to find. If you are in need of further explanation, email me at patrick.ewing@juno.com I am in Seattle and am willing to help if you want. Patrick
On our 1991 37.5 we had this same problem and I was told about the set screw inside the pedestal (Edson) on the throttle shaft boss. It can be tightened to put pressure on the shaft rather than the cable. I found that ours had threads stripped out so I drilled it larger and tapped it to a larger thread. I also added two other set screws and put them in place over some sacrificial plastic pins which ride on and protect the shaft. It is almost too tight now but does not slip. If you have a different pedestal, you might do something similar. I do not like the idea of clamping the cable since it will cause wear in a place which is essential for control of the engine. Our shift cable once broke unexpectedly and it was a time consuming fix and could have been quite dangerous as we were entering the Ballard large locks at the time. Luckily, we caught the wall and only had to deal with the logistics of getting a replacement and spend an afternoon doing a task which we did not expect. If your cable is rusty, I hope you will at least get a replacement to have with you if it fails. They are not expensive and can be hard to find. If you are in need of further explanation, email me at patrick.ewing@juno.com I am in Seattle and am willing to help if you want. Patrick
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