I have a 94 Hunter 26 (#174) - a design that predates the installation of backing plates from the factory. I obtained instructions from Hunter on installing stern rail seats myself. They look pretty straightforward except for two items ... they indicate that I need to glass in backing plates on the inside of the cockpit deck - above the cockpit window and the same location on the other side of the cockpit. I'm not sure of the access to this from inside the boat (I'm working from memory - I won't be able to get to my boat for a few weeks.) If any 26' or 24' or 23.5' owners have done this - how accessible was this area? The rest of the seat is held in with Molly bolts. Tom Grass Grasshopper II H-26 #174
Stern Rail Seats - H26
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backing plate with through bolts would be better
I'm not sure what kind of access you'd have from the interior to that area. We have a 240 and the install area would mean crawling back behind the divider between the aft bunk and the aft storage area. Then lying on your back and reaching all the way up to the top of the boat. If it were me the firemen would probably need to cut me out if I ever made it back there! I do love the stern rail seats on our 240!!! Ken
I'm not sure what kind of access you'd have from the interior to that area. We have a 240 and the install area would mean crawling back behind the divider between the aft bunk and the aft storage area. Then lying on your back and reaching all the way up to the top of the boat. If it were me the firemen would probably need to cut me out if I ever made it back there! I do love the stern rail seats on our 240!!! Ken
I did it on a 240
I did it with help from a friend - we did not glass in the backing plates. The ones at the stern of the boat are relatively easy, the ones on the side needed us to cut a hole in the liner, scrap out foam (very messy) and took quite some time. In total, about a day's work.
I did it with help from a friend - we did not glass in the backing plates. The ones at the stern of the boat are relatively easy, the ones on the side needed us to cut a hole in the liner, scrap out foam (very messy) and took quite some time. In total, about a day's work.
Expandable Drywall fitting?
Doesn't seem like you will be sailing salt water. Do you suppose one of those heavy duty drywall things that spread out once inside would do the trick? If it should break, all you would have to do is drill it out and re-do it. I think they run up to 1/4 inch or better.
Doesn't seem like you will be sailing salt water. Do you suppose one of those heavy duty drywall things that spread out once inside would do the trick? If it should break, all you would have to do is drill it out and re-do it. I think they run up to 1/4 inch or better.
It was done on our '94 h26
A 4" hole was cut on the inside of the cockpit coaming, behind where the foam back cushions are velcroed onto the coaming (or snapped, as the case may be). The backing plates are placed through the holes and then thru-bolted from the seat rails. The 4" access hole is then covered with a plastic deck inspection plate which is subsequently hidden by the foam seat backs (when installed). Seems like the easiest way to go, albeit leaving a piece of hardware showing. It also leaves access for further maintenance down the road. I don't see why the backing plate cannot be restrained with adhesive rather than being glassed in.
A 4" hole was cut on the inside of the cockpit coaming, behind where the foam back cushions are velcroed onto the coaming (or snapped, as the case may be). The backing plates are placed through the holes and then thru-bolted from the seat rails. The 4" access hole is then covered with a plastic deck inspection plate which is subsequently hidden by the foam seat backs (when installed). Seems like the easiest way to go, albeit leaving a piece of hardware showing. It also leaves access for further maintenance down the road. I don't see why the backing plate cannot be restrained with adhesive rather than being glassed in.
Depends on backing plate material
Mine installed by PO at the dealer in a 1994 26. Shoddy work all around. Odd sized bolt heads, not sure if they backplated or not. I will not sit in them (230#) until I install proper plates of stainless and matching hardware. Wood would have to be glassed in for durrability. My kids love them too. I like the inspection plate idea. You could stick a drybag in there and store stuff behind the plate. Light stuff of course. Hunter foamed the crud out of the gap area in mine. THere is no way to get in there. I moved the battery forward and wanted a hot spot and charger back there. What a mess the foam was to chisle out. I still have some in my ears and hair. The drywall anchors would pull right through the freeboard and you would be sitting in the water at the most inconvenient time.
Mine installed by PO at the dealer in a 1994 26. Shoddy work all around. Odd sized bolt heads, not sure if they backplated or not. I will not sit in them (230#) until I install proper plates of stainless and matching hardware. Wood would have to be glassed in for durrability. My kids love them too. I like the inspection plate idea. You could stick a drybag in there and store stuff behind the plate. Light stuff of course. Hunter foamed the crud out of the gap area in mine. THere is no way to get in there. I moved the battery forward and wanted a hot spot and charger back there. What a mess the foam was to chisle out. I still have some in my ears and hair. The drywall anchors would pull right through the freeboard and you would be sitting in the water at the most inconvenient time.
I did it on my 94
I ordered the kit from Hunter and installed it last summer. Did not glass or glue backing plates on advice from Hunter but through bolted them. Through bolted the two stern most side mounts and used some unique and handy toggle bolts from Hunter for the two forward mounts. It gets pretty tight for the side mounts and you need to remove some foam. The fiberglass on the inside can have some awfully sharp places. I did not have to cut any access holes but you need to be slim with long arms and somewhat of a contortionist. A lot of work but really worth it. Good Luck
I ordered the kit from Hunter and installed it last summer. Did not glass or glue backing plates on advice from Hunter but through bolted them. Through bolted the two stern most side mounts and used some unique and handy toggle bolts from Hunter for the two forward mounts. It gets pretty tight for the side mounts and you need to remove some foam. The fiberglass on the inside can have some awfully sharp places. I did not have to cut any access holes but you need to be slim with long arms and somewhat of a contortionist. A lot of work but really worth it. Good Luck
Best Info
The best info I have right now is that the seats cost about 7 1/2 Boat Units - from Hunter. I've been quoted another seven Boat Units for my dealer to install. I'm not sure about shipping costs from Florida to Missouri. I'm still exploring exactly how they interact with my current life lines at the stern. It's my belief that they ARE identical to the factory installed units. Tom Grass
The best info I have right now is that the seats cost about 7 1/2 Boat Units - from Hunter. I've been quoted another seven Boat Units for my dealer to install. I'm not sure about shipping costs from Florida to Missouri. I'm still exploring exactly how they interact with my current life lines at the stern. It's my belief that they ARE identical to the factory installed units. Tom Grass
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