We drysail our 170, leaving the shrouds attached. I have trouble stepping the mast. I have to lay the mast all the way flat on the cockpit deck and then tug a good bit until the pin squeeze into the step. Once things are up, it doesn't seem as though the sidestays are too tight. Mike Garrison in a post mostly on reefing mentioned and showed a picture of using CS Johnson lever tensioners on his upper shrouds. I amenable to trying this. But will the fixed lower shrouds still be a problem? Thanks, Jim O'Reilly Durham NC
Stepping the mast of the 170
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Kevin B.
Stepping the 170
Hi Jim, You will find as you tighten your shrouds. It will become impossible to get the pins to fall into place with the mast flat on the deck. You must begin to raise the top of the mast slightly off the deck to get enough slack in the shrouds to drop the pins in place. The lower you move your adjustment on the side chainplates, the more you will have to angle the top of the mast up to step it. If your shrouds are loose enough for you to step you mast with it flat on the deck, you will find that you probably don't have enough tension on your shrouds thus creating to much sag in your the forestay. This will limit your ability to point the boat to windward. Hope this helps some. Keep experimenting and post your results. Fair Winds
Hi Jim, You will find as you tighten your shrouds. It will become impossible to get the pins to fall into place with the mast flat on the deck. You must begin to raise the top of the mast slightly off the deck to get enough slack in the shrouds to drop the pins in place. The lower you move your adjustment on the side chainplates, the more you will have to angle the top of the mast up to step it. If your shrouds are loose enough for you to step you mast with it flat on the deck, you will find that you probably don't have enough tension on your shrouds thus creating to much sag in your the forestay. This will limit your ability to point the boat to windward. Hope this helps some. Keep experimenting and post your results. Fair Winds
Shroud lines
Hi Jim, I trailer my boat where ever I go and I always leave my shroud lines attached. When I step my mast I move as far back on the boat as possible, right to the edge of the stern resting the mast on my right shoulder. at this point the mast still is about a foot from being far enough back to get it in place so.... I raise the mast up over my head about a foot or so, now the mast can easily move back far enough that it can slide into the alignment slot and drop into its proper place. now walk forward pushing the mast up all the way. using your topping line secure the mast in place by tying your topping line to one of the froward horn cleats. now climb out of the boat and using your triler winch, take the hook and secure it to a loop on your topping line, mine is about 4 feet high. once you secured the topping line to the winch, use the winch to pull the mast forward, crank good enough so that your jib stay line can easily be connected to the furling unit, secure the jib stay line and releas the winch. your all set. Your front shrouds should be nice and tight, the rears a bit looser. derigging is the same. I have a picture and drawing as to my shroud settings if your interested, just send me an e-mail.glenn.basore@medtronic.com hope this helps Glenn
Hi Jim, I trailer my boat where ever I go and I always leave my shroud lines attached. When I step my mast I move as far back on the boat as possible, right to the edge of the stern resting the mast on my right shoulder. at this point the mast still is about a foot from being far enough back to get it in place so.... I raise the mast up over my head about a foot or so, now the mast can easily move back far enough that it can slide into the alignment slot and drop into its proper place. now walk forward pushing the mast up all the way. using your topping line secure the mast in place by tying your topping line to one of the froward horn cleats. now climb out of the boat and using your triler winch, take the hook and secure it to a loop on your topping line, mine is about 4 feet high. once you secured the topping line to the winch, use the winch to pull the mast forward, crank good enough so that your jib stay line can easily be connected to the furling unit, secure the jib stay line and releas the winch. your all set. Your front shrouds should be nice and tight, the rears a bit looser. derigging is the same. I have a picture and drawing as to my shroud settings if your interested, just send me an e-mail.glenn.basore@medtronic.com hope this helps Glenn
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Jeff Wessel
Johnson levers
Jim, I have the Johnson levers you refered to on all four shrouds on my boat. You still need to walk to the end of the stern and raise the top of the mast to get the pins to engage the slot in the step. It is a little easier though. Then, walk the mast forward and pin the jib stay. My 14 year old Son does this while I hold the mast up and there is NO winch/topping lift action required. The mast is secure enough at this point that you can sit down, pull the levers down on your shrouds and pin them. Now the mast is up no problem and there is enough tension in the shrouds to put that nice 2" rake at the top of the mast for perfect jib tension. You can get the levers at West Marine (order the small size) for under $100.00. Hands down the best money I have spent on the boat aside from the motor. Jeff
Jim, I have the Johnson levers you refered to on all four shrouds on my boat. You still need to walk to the end of the stern and raise the top of the mast to get the pins to engage the slot in the step. It is a little easier though. Then, walk the mast forward and pin the jib stay. My 14 year old Son does this while I hold the mast up and there is NO winch/topping lift action required. The mast is secure enough at this point that you can sit down, pull the levers down on your shrouds and pin them. Now the mast is up no problem and there is enough tension in the shrouds to put that nice 2" rake at the top of the mast for perfect jib tension. You can get the levers at West Marine (order the small size) for under $100.00. Hands down the best money I have spent on the boat aside from the motor. Jeff
Which levers?
Jeff, Which Johnson levers did you purchase? I've been looking at Johnson's website and I can't determine which levers you used. There are the quick release stay adjusters, and then there are the Johnson quick release levers. Which did you purchase? Here is the link to Johnson's website. Thanks
Jeff, Which Johnson levers did you purchase? I've been looking at Johnson's website and I can't determine which levers you used. There are the quick release stay adjusters, and then there are the Johnson quick release levers. Which did you purchase? Here is the link to Johnson's website. Thanks
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Jeff Wessel
Levers
Kendall, I didn't see the levers I bought on that page. The levers are P/N 15-212. Here is a link to the West Marine page with them. Not bad for $23.00 each. Jeff
Kendall, I didn't see the levers I bought on that page. The levers are P/N 15-212. Here is a link to the West Marine page with them. Not bad for $23.00 each. Jeff
Levers Ordered!
Jeff, Thanks for the link, I ordered my levers today from West Marine, so hopefully i'll get them in soon. Any tips to using the levers? Which hole do you pin? Thanks
Jeff, Thanks for the link, I ordered my levers today from West Marine, so hopefully i'll get them in soon. Any tips to using the levers? Which hole do you pin? Thanks
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Rusty
Also add quick release ball pins!
170 Sailors, Congrads on upgrading to the Johnson Levers. Now also order 4 quick release captive ball pins to secure them to the hull with and replace the factory pins. They will cost you $20 each, but they go hand in hand with the levers. The combo will cut setup/takedown time tremendously! I think the correct size is 3/4" by 1/4" (working). Rusty
170 Sailors, Congrads on upgrading to the Johnson Levers. Now also order 4 quick release captive ball pins to secure them to the hull with and replace the factory pins. They will cost you $20 each, but they go hand in hand with the levers. The combo will cut setup/takedown time tremendously! I think the correct size is 3/4" by 1/4" (working). Rusty
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Jeff Wessel
lever hints
Kendall, I have all four of mine pinned at 4, but it is likely that my shrouds have stretched more/less than yours. In the Spring, I set up in my driveway and shim under the trailer tongue until the boat floor is level along the line from the stern to the bow. If your driveway is way off of level from port to starboard, you may want to shim up a tire to take care of that too. Then tie a weight to the halyard on the cockpit side of the mast. Let the halyard swing free at a rest (it is effectively a plum bob). Measure the distance from the mast to the halyard at the gooseneck . It should be about 2" when there is enough tension in the shrouds. I check it every once in a while during the season. Also, When you mount your levers, make sure that you mount the forward and aft levers so that they open in opposite directions. I know it sounds like a no brainer to hear it said, but it will save you a few minutes of repinning after figuring it out if you start with that in mind. When you squeeze the lever closed after you put the mast up, you slide a pin into each lever to secure it. To keep the pins handy and also to keep from having to get out of the boat to chase a dropped pin, I tied the pins to the chain plate mounts on the hull with a 3" length of masons cord. Rusty, I had the speed pins before buying the levers. I found that now, with the levers, I don't really need to unpin the shrouds.
Kendall, I have all four of mine pinned at 4, but it is likely that my shrouds have stretched more/less than yours. In the Spring, I set up in my driveway and shim under the trailer tongue until the boat floor is level along the line from the stern to the bow. If your driveway is way off of level from port to starboard, you may want to shim up a tire to take care of that too. Then tie a weight to the halyard on the cockpit side of the mast. Let the halyard swing free at a rest (it is effectively a plum bob). Measure the distance from the mast to the halyard at the gooseneck . It should be about 2" when there is enough tension in the shrouds. I check it every once in a while during the season. Also, When you mount your levers, make sure that you mount the forward and aft levers so that they open in opposite directions. I know it sounds like a no brainer to hear it said, but it will save you a few minutes of repinning after figuring it out if you start with that in mind. When you squeeze the lever closed after you put the mast up, you slide a pin into each lever to secure it. To keep the pins handy and also to keep from having to get out of the boat to chase a dropped pin, I tied the pins to the chain plate mounts on the hull with a 3" length of masons cord. Rusty, I had the speed pins before buying the levers. I found that now, with the levers, I don't really need to unpin the shrouds.
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