Recently I noticed excessive play in the steering. Cables are nice and snug so, checking further, I found that a bolt that goes from the center of the steering quandrant into the rudder shaft has loosened. I removed it and the thread appears fine; there's no sign of excessive wear, etc. Tightening it up took care of the excessive play. But before I put locktite on it to keep it from loosening up again, I wanted to check on something that puzzles me. With that one bolt removed, the quadrant turns freely around the rudder shaft (in other words, the quadrant turns but the rudder shaft doesn't. (The bolts holding the quandrant itself together are nice and snug, so they aren't a problem.) I'm a little surprised that there isn't a key between the quadrant or that the center of the quadrant doesn't fit tightly against the rudder shaft. As it is, it's just that one bolt (I'd guess it's a 5/16) doing all the work of transferring the movement from the quadrant to the rudder shaft. I'm curious to know whether anyone with a similar setup has gotten a close enough look at this to know if it's the same as mine. One reason this has perked my interest is that the quadrant was removed when the rudder was replaced last year (when I first bought the boat). I want to make sure someone at the yard didn't miss a step in reassembling it. Thanks, John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers
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Ed Schenck
Rudder play.
Hi John, there's no doubt that you'll get a definitive answer. I'm betting many H37C owners have worked on their rudders. I've been in there to adjust cable tension but never had the quadrant loose. I always assumed the bolts holding the two quadrant halves together had a clamping affect. And I can't visualize a bolt going into the rudder post so I'll check next time. I wonder if corrosion caused the clamp to slip and someone added the bolt? It'll be interesting to see the answers here.
Hi John, there's no doubt that you'll get a definitive answer. I'm betting many H37C owners have worked on their rudders. I've been in there to adjust cable tension but never had the quadrant loose. I always assumed the bolts holding the two quadrant halves together had a clamping affect. And I can't visualize a bolt going into the rudder post so I'll check next time. I wonder if corrosion caused the clamp to slip and someone added the bolt? It'll be interesting to see the answers here.
J
John Reid
Ed, re the bolt
In just looking at it, I would have guessed that the clamping effect would turn the rudder, exactly as you thought, while the bolt would be there to keep everything in alignment, especially to prevent the quadrant from sliding down on the rudder post over time. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion, but I haven't taken the quadrant apart yet to check that. Figured I'd wait for a couple of days to see if anyone has dealt with this.
In just looking at it, I would have guessed that the clamping effect would turn the rudder, exactly as you thought, while the bolt would be there to keep everything in alignment, especially to prevent the quadrant from sliding down on the rudder post over time. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion, but I haven't taken the quadrant apart yet to check that. Figured I'd wait for a couple of days to see if anyone has dealt with this.
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s/v DREAMER"
The bolt, the clamp, and losing a rudder at sea.
I lost my rudder 1000NM enroute to mainland from Hawaii. Took 7-days to make the 1000NM, and 23-days to sail back. But that's another story. The answer to the question is: Without the bolt, the clamping effect will not hold the quadrant in place for very long. A fact I discovered on my way from Hilo, (where I installed my new rudder), to Honolulu, where I was going to do the final installation. The bolt is necessary, even if it does weaken the wall if the Stainless Pipe which serves as rudder stock. The whole assembly Is shoddy, and is, to me, the weakest part of this excellent boat.
I lost my rudder 1000NM enroute to mainland from Hawaii. Took 7-days to make the 1000NM, and 23-days to sail back. But that's another story. The answer to the question is: Without the bolt, the clamping effect will not hold the quadrant in place for very long. A fact I discovered on my way from Hilo, (where I installed my new rudder), to Honolulu, where I was going to do the final installation. The bolt is necessary, even if it does weaken the wall if the Stainless Pipe which serves as rudder stock. The whole assembly Is shoddy, and is, to me, the weakest part of this excellent boat.
S
s/v "DREAMER"
More from "DREAMER"
There are more things I want to say about the rudder stock. I Thru-bolted the quadrant so both halves of the Quadrant are fixed to the stock. I suggest that the next time any H37C is out of the water, drop the rudder and inspect the SS Pipe for cracks. This is easily said, however, the cracks will be under fibreglass, about 3/4 to 1" inside the rudder, where the SS pipe enters the glass. Cut away the glass to inspect the pipe. It's easy enough to replace the glass frmoved for this inspection which might save you losing your rudder. While the rudder is out of the boat, tate the opportunity to replace the thru-hull where the stock enters the boat. Oh, by the way, the boat handled without a rudder well enough to get me to within 35 NM of the big Island, before being taken under tow.
There are more things I want to say about the rudder stock. I Thru-bolted the quadrant so both halves of the Quadrant are fixed to the stock. I suggest that the next time any H37C is out of the water, drop the rudder and inspect the SS Pipe for cracks. This is easily said, however, the cracks will be under fibreglass, about 3/4 to 1" inside the rudder, where the SS pipe enters the glass. Cut away the glass to inspect the pipe. It's easy enough to replace the glass frmoved for this inspection which might save you losing your rudder. While the rudder is out of the boat, tate the opportunity to replace the thru-hull where the stock enters the boat. Oh, by the way, the boat handled without a rudder well enough to get me to within 35 NM of the big Island, before being taken under tow.
T
Terry Arnold
tightening quadrant
On my 79 H33 I had the same problem with the quadrant being loose on the rudder shaft. I was able to machine each side of the radius wheel so that when reassembled, the clamp works as intended. In my case, I used a woodworking jointer.
On my 79 H33 I had the same problem with the quadrant being loose on the rudder shaft. I was able to machine each side of the radius wheel so that when reassembled, the clamp works as intended. In my case, I used a woodworking jointer.
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John Reid
Thanks
Thanks for all the good information. Here's what I'm going to do: -- Plane the inside halves of the quadrant just a whisker, which will result in the quadrant clamping onto the rubber post firmly. (In addition to Terry, I got the same suggestion from Gene Gruender of Rainbow Chaser.) -- Drill the bolt hole all the way through the rudder post and through the other side of the quadrant hub, so I can put a bolt all the way through and snug it down with a locking nut. By the way, it turns out my steering system was made by Merriman (sp?), which is out of business. Those of you with similar systems may want to check yours. If it's like mine, it's pretty frail but easily fixed. And, while I have the stage, if you want to know who built your steering system: according to Edson, check the wheel brake (on the pedestal). If the brake pad is foreward of the chain sprocket on the wheel axle, it's an Edson. If the brake pad is aft of the chain sprocket, it's Merriman.
Thanks for all the good information. Here's what I'm going to do: -- Plane the inside halves of the quadrant just a whisker, which will result in the quadrant clamping onto the rubber post firmly. (In addition to Terry, I got the same suggestion from Gene Gruender of Rainbow Chaser.) -- Drill the bolt hole all the way through the rudder post and through the other side of the quadrant hub, so I can put a bolt all the way through and snug it down with a locking nut. By the way, it turns out my steering system was made by Merriman (sp?), which is out of business. Those of you with similar systems may want to check yours. If it's like mine, it's pretty frail but easily fixed. And, while I have the stage, if you want to know who built your steering system: according to Edson, check the wheel brake (on the pedestal). If the brake pad is foreward of the chain sprocket on the wheel axle, it's an Edson. If the brake pad is aft of the chain sprocket, it's Merriman.
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