Steering cable cover

[Albanach]

I am in the process of installing a wheel pilot. As part of this process I am trying to take off the cover that protects the steering cables etc intruding on the rear cabin – as per picture attached – to see how best to install the wiring for the motor and control unit.

After loosening the screws, the cover seems to be stuck to the cabin ceiling.

Is this just sealant keeping it attached? I am nervous about causing damage by just prising it off, if it is attached in some other way I can’t see.

Perhaps one of you guys, having been thru this installation, could enlighten me?

Many thanks.

 

[rpwillia]

There was some sealant on mine

It should pop loose causing no damage - just give it a gentle tug. Which AP are you installing? PaulJ, Witzend and I all did AP installs last year, so if you have questions fire away. PaulJ did pass onto me his design for mounting the Rudder Angle Sensor (brackets made it easy), and then everything else was pretty easy. I did mount my Fluxgate Compass on that bulkhead right behind and a little below where you will be working, and my computer is mounted below the chart table on the bulkhead by the oven. That way I was able to use the supplied cables.

 

[Albanach]

Thanks, rpwillia. Have researched your and the others' posts re installation of AP and found some good advice.
My AP is a Raymarine Smartpilotx-5, which does not need a rudder sensor. I was going to follow your examle of locating the computer below the chart table, but was a bit nrervous about messing things up and therefore hid it in the port shelf of the rear cabin against the rear bulkhead. The fluxgate is mounted under the sink facing aft.
Am still being held up by not being able to get the steering wheel off, despite several doses of WD 40 and freezing it. The small gear puller I used did not help - may have to ask the boatyard for assistance with a proper wheel puller.
Also ordered separate housing for control unit months ago - still "on its way".

 

[rpwillia]

No problem with the wheel

Wheel came right off, needed no tools except a wrench to get the bolt started. I did check around with a compass and it seemed like there was interference under my sink which was too bad as it would have been a lot easier. But, my final location on the aft bulkhead of the rear bunk did work out pretty well.

Would be interested to hear how the sea trial for the X-5 goes. One confusing part for me was during the commissioning where I missed the note about all the turns to calibrate for the rate gyro. My unit did not have the correct stuff coming up on the display.

 

[Albanach]

Re: No problem with the wheel

Having finally removed the steering wheel ( took our club mechanic nearly ½ hour with blowtorch and wheel puller - shaft was covered in rust) I hit the same snag you guys did: not enough space for the clutch.

As I am on a swing mooring in often quite gusty winds, I am not really looking forward to moving the CP and am looking for an easier way out.

Is there a critical reason why I can’t just move the “slot No1”, ie. add a 3. slot a few degrees to port of No1, thereby possibly lifting the clutch lever enough to provide free play for it. It appears to me that the pedestal bracket simply keeps the wheel motor from turning with the wheel. Am I missing some basic point here?

According to PaulJ’s pictures (which, btw, are first class) I would not be blocking the brake or stop handle by doing this.

Have put this question also to Raymarine.

 

[rpwillia]

Please clarify

Is there a critical reason why I can’t just move the “slot No1”, ie. add a 3. slot a few degrees to port of No1, thereby possibly lifting the clutch lever enough to provide free play for it. It appears to me that the pedestal bracket simply keeps the wheel motor from turning with the wheel. Am I missing some basic point here.

Slot? Can you explain what you mean - sorry I am being a bit dense with the terminiology. I know that different years have slightly different configurations. What does yours look like? PaulJ, Witz and I all have the engine control box below our wheel while I know that newer models have the engine control higher. My fix, based on Witz and Pauls experience was to simply lower my control box a few inches. I did not shave my handle as it just snags a little bit. I also used my engine control box as the way I routed my Raymarine supplied power cord for the motor as it provided the extra few inches I needed to use that wire when I mounted my control box under my nav station.

 

[Witzend]

The fluxgate under the sink is a bad idea, too much ferrous metal. I located mine in port shelf in the aft cabin, on the bulk head that divides the aft cabin and head, so it faces to the rear. I believe Paul mounted his there as well. If you choose this location, be careful not to put the mounting screws through the bulkhead so the ends of the screws are visible in the head. Also, you will need to correct the heading adjustment (180 deg.) for this rear orientation during commissioning.

 

[Albanach]

The fluxgate under the sink is a bad idea, too much ferrous metal. I located mine in port shelf in the aft cabin, on the bulk head that divides the aft cabin and head, so it faces to the rear. I believe Paul mounted his there as well. If you choose this location, be careful not to put the mounting screws through the bulkhead so the ends of the screws are visible in the head. Also, you will need to correct the heading adjustment (180 deg.) for this rear orientation during commissioning.

rpwillia - Sorry, I should have been more specific. Obviously too immersed in my little problem.

The slot I meant is the one in the rim where the motor sits, into which the grey bracket fits – as per copy of manual excerpt attached. Unfortunately, I could not take a picture as it is raining here and too uncomfortable to dinghy over to the boat.

I thought that if I cut another/new slot, as per the drawing, I may be able to save moving the control box (which seems in same place as yours, below the wheel).

Hopefully, I’ve been a bit clearer this time.

Witzend – thanks for your advice. Have however already mounted under sink – probably followed Mainesail, who does not appear to have had problems with this (?)

It does seem that your location has become the more popular one since. If mine does not work out, shall just have to re-locate things. Not connecting it to wind instrument or otherwise as yet – just using it as 2. crew for tacking etc, for the time being.
Btw I checked various locations with a handheld compass, which did not seem to be affected in any locations I tried. It is an army surplus compass – maybe that is why it is surplus?

Just trying to convert the boat from a floating workshop into a functional sailing boat before the summer ends.

 

[rpwillia]

Ahhh, Those slots

Albanach, I had forgotten about the slots on the back of the wheel. To be honest I don't know if there is really any way around that. I suspect it is also a little bit of the luck of the draw as to where the engine control box sits. But, it was not a big deal to move the box as I learned from reading Paul or Witz's experience and then doing it myself. The box is not all that delicate and really just a matter of deciding what to do. At one point I was thinking of putting the clutch lever on the port side as I am left handed, but then decided it just made sense to stick with a stbd side installation. You will find once you pop the box open there is a lot of room and it is not that big of a deal.

The hardest part of the whole installation was installing the rudder sensor - which with an X-5 you miss out on completely.

 

[Albanach]

Re: Ahhh, Those slots

Just one more question on this subject – hopefully the last one. I am going to house the pilot controller in a separate navpod. Thinking I had the ideal location by attaching it to the pedestal guard just below the existing Navpod, which houses the 3 standard instruments, and just above/beside the binnacle compass, I now discover that it should be at least 2.5’ away from the compass.

Has anyone located their controls in similar fashion and if so, any problems? (The current Navpod is only about one foot away from the compass.)

My only alternative would be to attach it the top of the guard rail, which I am loathe to do because of the wheel cover and vulnerability.

Thanks for all your help, folks.

 

[rpwillia]

I have the 4 instruments in the NavPod

I had room for one more instrument in my NavPod so I added the control head there. Really is the best place for it. It is only about 12" away from the compass, but I have noticed no problems. I have also attached a picture for where I mounted the computer. This made it easy to add it to the power panel (I had a spare breaker) and use the factory cables.

If you need to add another Navpod below for the control head, it would seem to be easier and cost about the same to replace your existing Navpod with a larger one. What do you have in your existing Navpod?

 

[Witzend]

My setup: As you can see at the time the picture was taken the compass and auto pilot is 180 out because it is mounted facing aft. The commissioning procedure for adjusting the heading has provisions for correcting this.

When I executed the truns to calibrate the fluxgate, when it was mounted under the sink I received a number of 13 for the deviation reading, outside the acceptable limit. After relocating the fluxgate to the aft berth shelf wall, I received a 3 for the deviation. I beleive the perminate magnets in the shower/refrig. drain pump and water presure pump was causing the problem.

 

[paulj]

Albanach

Use a Dremel tool and grind the clutch handle to fit in the existing location or you can add a spacer on the steering wheel shaft behind the hub.


Grinding the handle was a better solution for me.

Because I have GPS I do not use the boat compass.

Since you do not have a rudder sensor you better get the get the deveation 3 or better or you will be bouncing back and forth even when the reaction response setting is set to it's fastest.

In smooth water you will not notice but when the chop starts you will know what I know.....

paulj :troll:

 

[Albanach]

Ok, thanks, guys – I am convinced and shall re-locate my FG compass to the aft port berth shelf and the Course Computer below the chart table.

As a matter of interest, Witzend and paulj, where did you place your Course Computer? Chart table location seems to make it essential, as per rpwillia, to route motor cable thru dropped engine instrument housing to obtain necessary length. I may have a slight problem here as from memory the cable pipe does not lead entirely vertically into the housing.

rpwillia, unfortunately, you appear to be right re price of housing. Today there is a special for a 4 instrument housing about $10 extra. However, when I ordered my single housing 2 months ago, it seemed double the price. In any case, I have now paid for it and will have to live with it. My present set-up comprises Wind, Depth and Speed. Whilst latter hardly ever works due to to what grows on the paddle wheel, it looks impressive. Shall have another look and might leave the pilot controller installation to last when I can hold it live, on a loose wire, somewhere on the guard rail and see what happens to the binnacle compass.

Shall re-approach the whole project when the rain here finally stops, including looking at paulj’s suggestion re clutch etc.

PS I must say that all your instrument set ups look great and very functional.

 

[Witzend]

Mine course computer is located where RP's is.
To get access for running cables take out the small wooden cubbie under the stove then when you drill the holes you can reach in and fish the cables through.