Steel Swing Keel

CalebD · Mar 14, 2010

I think you are going to have to treat the entire surface with Ospho or naval jelly before you consider glassing it in. If you just put epoxy on it the surface will continue to rust underneath the epoxy causing it to delaminate.
Once the rust is treated nearly any epoxy will do. I would add a layer or two of cloth to your build up.

Joe11688 · Mar 14, 2010

Brendan Carney said:
I have recently taken the keel off my boat(which is not an easy task!) and found that there was a ton of rust and corrosion. Also there is a tremendous amount of slop in the pin hole. I had some time last weekend and threw the grinder and sander to her. After a lot of elbow grease, sweat and dust it cleaned up pretty well. My concerns are where the rust was really heavy there are deep pits in the steel. I am thinnking that I want to epoxy the whole keel- is this a good idea? and what is the best epoxy/filler?

This guy had the same problem Brendan.
http://baysailorbill.spaces.live.com/ Only his problem involved a cast iron keel and the Fiberglas centerboard on a 1973 O'Day 23. You may want to get in touch with him and ask what he used on his keel. Bill likes to restore vintage boats and his work is superb.

sailingdog · Mar 14, 2010

I'd second what CalebD said. Use microballons to thicken the epoxy. However, since microballons can absorb water, you should coat the centerboard with unthickened epoxy once you've sanded it fair to seal the microballons.

Tom Hoffman · Mar 14, 2010

I was just advised against micro ballons for the same reason (absorb water) stated. I was told to use Micro Fibre 403 from West Systems, it is just very finely gound up fiberglass boats made into powder. It will thicken the epoxy and not absorb water. I ordered some this past friday to fix some gouges on my keel. Not too expensive.

Tom...

jwa · Mar 14, 2010

I would get it sand blasted to stop all the rust action before coating it. Then epoxy coat it. When I dropped my keel it only had a few rust spots which I ground out with a grinder. Then I coated it with interluxes barrier system.
jeff

Sumner · Mar 14, 2010

jwa said:
I would get it sand blasted to stop all the rust action before coating it. Then epoxy coat it. ...........jeff

I'd second that. Not necessarily sand blasted, but that would work. Take it to a place that uses some form of media blasting and get it cleaned down good. It won't cost that much and then you have a good foundation.

Then I would use something like the everglass above.....

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36

...... to fill the pits and shape the surface. Don't use regular bondo as it will absorb moisture. The Everglass won't. If you can't find it go to a place that sells auto refinishing products. They will have it.

After the Everglass is sanded flat and you have the shape you want then put on the epoxy paint. Most of the epoxy paints have to be topcoated within a certain time period, so be sure and follow their directions to get good adhesion between the epoxy paint and whatever you are going to use over it and make sure they are compatible.

Good luck,

Sum

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Sumner · Mar 14, 2010

A little more..................

Just a little more info if you need it and this comes from doing a fair amount of car body work. Put the Everglass on thick enough to just cover the high spots filling the low spots completely. After it kicks and is hard, but not a day later, within the next hour use a .....

....long board like above or make one that you use stick on 36 or 40 grit paper (you can get these at the auto supply also). The Everglass will cut down pretty quick if you get to it fast, so just work say 1/4 of the keel at a time. You are not sanding at this point, but cutting it to shape with the course paper. When you start hitting metal stop. You should now just start to see the high spots appearing.

Switch to 80 grit paper on the long board and sand out the 40 grit sanding scratches. Since the repair is a boat and is going to be under water I'd quit at this point and go to the epoxy primer. If you sand too far put on more Everglass. Put a skim coat on in a larger area and work it back flat, don't try and fill individual smaller areas.

Hope this helps and if you want a really nice super smooth finish then there is more to it............

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/tech--body-paint-index.html

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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Paul Brinkley · Mar 15, 2010

Pin hole: Try welding or glassing in a bushing of the correct size. My Mac 26S has a fiberglass centerboard, and when I did some repairs on it a couple of years ago, I glassed in a piece of PVC pipe the right size. Its still doing just fine. With your heavier material, steel might work better for you. -Paul

watercolors II · Mar 15, 2010

VC Tar

Check out "VC Tar" properties as a prime coat before your barrier coat.

Did my cast iron keel around 94 and used it, I'm ready to touch up a few spots for the first time and have already purchased the Tar.

Bob McL · Mar 16, 2010

I reworked the keel on my Mac/Venture 25 using a rust converter first (after removing the loose rust chunks) I used five coats, however three will do. Then I used a filler to fair the shape. Check out the "sailingaz" account on photobucket.com. With the rust converter you don't really want a shiny bare metal surface. The rust converter used was POR-15 which you can find in auto paint shops or contact the manufacturer via the internet.

Barry B. · Mar 17, 2010

Keel Repair Video

Catalina Direct sells a video that shows how to make any necessary repairs to a Catalina 22 keel, including fairing and finishing. The same processes should work on any steel or cast iron keel.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/http://www.catalinadirect.com/

Steel Swing Keel

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