My steaming light is not working on my H28, so I am going to try a couple of things before I replace it. First I am going to intercept the connection at the mast base and hook up a 12V source to see if it is the connection between the step and the base or further down. If it works there I will then know that it is further down the way. If this is the case I am going to take a look at the switch and move the connections to see if I can make it work from there. If this does not work that the fixture may be bad (bulb has been replaced), so the last resort will be for me to replace the entire assembly. This brings up my question. Has anyone gone to the Perco Masthead/Foredeck light that they sell at West Marine. If so, what was the installation like and did you have to run an additional wire and add a switch for the use of he foredeck light.
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Results
Terrance, When you are done with this project please let me know your results because I have the same problem with my steaming light and top of mast light. jrallo@prodigy.net
Terrance, When you are done with this project please let me know your results because I have the same problem with my steaming light and top of mast light. jrallo@prodigy.net
Corrosion Likely Culprit
Most of the time when a light doesn't work it's due to corrosion. The wires were not marine grade, the connectors were not sealed against moisture, and the contacts are exposed, both for the bulb and for the wire-to-fixture connectors. If you installed a new fixture, which, based on it's age isn't a bad idea, then coat all electrical contact points with silicone dielectric grease to reduce corrosion: where the wires are secured to the fixture and the contacts where the bulbs are mounted. This coating will help keep the salt air at bay. The sun is hard on the plastic lens and it's probably crazed and a new one with a clear lens will provide better visability. The link you provided was for aqua-signal (not Perko) which is a good replacement. Troubleshooting is not easy and your approach appears about as good as can be done under the circumstances.
Most of the time when a light doesn't work it's due to corrosion. The wires were not marine grade, the connectors were not sealed against moisture, and the contacts are exposed, both for the bulb and for the wire-to-fixture connectors. If you installed a new fixture, which, based on it's age isn't a bad idea, then coat all electrical contact points with silicone dielectric grease to reduce corrosion: where the wires are secured to the fixture and the contacts where the bulbs are mounted. This coating will help keep the salt air at bay. The sun is hard on the plastic lens and it's probably crazed and a new one with a clear lens will provide better visability. The link you provided was for aqua-signal (not Perko) which is a good replacement. Troubleshooting is not easy and your approach appears about as good as can be done under the circumstances.
Found it! Question?
I found the culprit, a faulty connection at the mast step. I accessed these connections through the access hole on the port side of the mast. I repaired the connections and voila, all of my lights work. . Obviously Hunter hired the lowest bidder for the steaming and anchor light parts and installation. Even though I have this working, I think that I will go ahead and replace the steaming light this spring with the combo unit that I mentioned earlier. My question for the forum: is there a three position switch that I can use to replace the current steaming light switch with, which will allow me to not have to use the one spare on my panel. With this, will there be any additional wiring needed for this installation. Also, who has had success with running additional wires through the wire lead/tube inside of the mast? Tips and or tricks for this project are appreciated.
I found the culprit, a faulty connection at the mast step. I accessed these connections through the access hole on the port side of the mast. I repaired the connections and voila, all of my lights work. . Obviously Hunter hired the lowest bidder for the steaming and anchor light parts and installation. Even though I have this working, I think that I will go ahead and replace the steaming light this spring with the combo unit that I mentioned earlier. My question for the forum: is there a three position switch that I can use to replace the current steaming light switch with, which will allow me to not have to use the one spare on my panel. With this, will there be any additional wiring needed for this installation. Also, who has had success with running additional wires through the wire lead/tube inside of the mast? Tips and or tricks for this project are appreciated.
Running Wires In Mast
It's good that you figured it out! and, it was only a bad connection. That makes life a lot easier. How sweet success is! Hunter did use un-tinned, non-marine grade wires which are essentially automotive wires and that was cheap. A lot cheaper. But, in my opinion, the Aqua-Signal lights are better than Perko, but there should be some corrosion block (silicon dielectric grease) on the connections and contacts for everything to hold up better. With regard to the mast wires, don't think you can run the wires inside the mast without lowering it. There are likely two raceways inside the mast, one on each side of the centerline (if the mast is Isomat). One should be a shorter raceway that goes up to the steaming/deck light whereas the other one goes to the top of the mast. Don't install wires outside the raceways as there will be a "cling" sound due to the wires swinging back and forth inside the mast. Not nice when you're trying to sleep at anchor. At the base of the mast the wires need to make a whoop-tee-do to prevent water from entering the cabin via the mast step, and this should be sealed. I don't know how this can be done properly with the mast on the boat. Use marine wire and heat-shrink tubing. Seal all the conductors from access to moisture. Liquid electrical tape helps too. Also a strain-relief for all conductors. If you pull the mast this would be a good time to install a new VHF antenna wire as well. Suggest a low-loss one if everything will fit and don't pinch it where it goes though the mast but it still needs a drip loop and mast sealant. Sail at night? Other things to add? What about a light for the windex? The steaming/deck combination light will require two breaker switches. I've never seen a three-way single braker switch. If your pannel is full up consider installing a sub pannel to free up slots.
It's good that you figured it out! and, it was only a bad connection. That makes life a lot easier. How sweet success is! Hunter did use un-tinned, non-marine grade wires which are essentially automotive wires and that was cheap. A lot cheaper. But, in my opinion, the Aqua-Signal lights are better than Perko, but there should be some corrosion block (silicon dielectric grease) on the connections and contacts for everything to hold up better. With regard to the mast wires, don't think you can run the wires inside the mast without lowering it. There are likely two raceways inside the mast, one on each side of the centerline (if the mast is Isomat). One should be a shorter raceway that goes up to the steaming/deck light whereas the other one goes to the top of the mast. Don't install wires outside the raceways as there will be a "cling" sound due to the wires swinging back and forth inside the mast. Not nice when you're trying to sleep at anchor. At the base of the mast the wires need to make a whoop-tee-do to prevent water from entering the cabin via the mast step, and this should be sealed. I don't know how this can be done properly with the mast on the boat. Use marine wire and heat-shrink tubing. Seal all the conductors from access to moisture. Liquid electrical tape helps too. Also a strain-relief for all conductors. If you pull the mast this would be a good time to install a new VHF antenna wire as well. Suggest a low-loss one if everything will fit and don't pinch it where it goes though the mast but it still needs a drip loop and mast sealant. Sail at night? Other things to add? What about a light for the windex? The steaming/deck combination light will require two breaker switches. I've never seen a three-way single braker switch. If your pannel is full up consider installing a sub pannel to free up slots.
Add the Light!
Go ahead and add the light. It takes a bit of time to get it done, but there isn't anything along the way that is impossible. You will need to add another wire from the fixture to the base of the mast. You may need to change the connectors at the base of the mast to allow for the extra wire. Getting a wire through the deck is a chance to check to see if water is getting into the balsa core of the coach roof through the hole that lets the wires enter the cabin. Below, when you loosen the plate surrounding the compression post, look for two pieces of cord. One comes down from the deck, the other goes through a piece of conduit and leads to the back of the wiring vault on the starboard side. Attach your new wire (and a new piece of cord) to the existing cord and gently pull it through the conduit. I installed another three breaker panel on the foward side of the narrow bulkhead just ahead of the electrical panel. This provided needed switch/circuit expansion. Sorry, I don't have a picture. Swallow is snuggled under her tarp waiting for an early spring. The foredeck light is a good alternative to spreader lights as you avoid having to allow for disconnecting the spreader lights to remove the spreaders. There is also enough light from the foredeck light to provide some illumination on the coach roof as well. Hugh McCully, VE3AYR s/v Swallow
Go ahead and add the light. It takes a bit of time to get it done, but there isn't anything along the way that is impossible. You will need to add another wire from the fixture to the base of the mast. You may need to change the connectors at the base of the mast to allow for the extra wire. Getting a wire through the deck is a chance to check to see if water is getting into the balsa core of the coach roof through the hole that lets the wires enter the cabin. Below, when you loosen the plate surrounding the compression post, look for two pieces of cord. One comes down from the deck, the other goes through a piece of conduit and leads to the back of the wiring vault on the starboard side. Attach your new wire (and a new piece of cord) to the existing cord and gently pull it through the conduit. I installed another three breaker panel on the foward side of the narrow bulkhead just ahead of the electrical panel. This provided needed switch/circuit expansion. Sorry, I don't have a picture. Swallow is snuggled under her tarp waiting for an early spring. The foredeck light is a good alternative to spreader lights as you avoid having to allow for disconnecting the spreader lights to remove the spreaders. There is also enough light from the foredeck light to provide some illumination on the coach roof as well. Hugh McCully, VE3AYR s/v Swallow
Ok, I'll jump.....in at this piont!
I just rewired my mast. Hunter's (1982) version was to run all wire inside the tube (1) where when reaching the piont of the steaming light, it had a 1 1/4 inch hole drilled thur the mast and the tube where the set of (2)wires exit to the steaming light and the other two go up to the anchor light. Problem one: I wanted deck lights added and I wanted the tricolor light at the top added to the existing lights. SO... lets see.. that's four hots and.. two grounds since my lights desired are Steaming/deck combo and anchor/tri-light masthead combo... but wanted to be able to control each on separate breakers. I used the Triplex wire in 14 gauge, thats three wires within one run and used two runs, (one to steaming/deck combo) and then (one to the top where the anchor/trilight combo) and thats it. Love it, added two more breakers to handle the two extra hots and that's it. I will attach photo of masthead light which is combo.. tri-light and anchor light. Ok, did not work, I'll post it in the photo forum. (Hunter 33)
I just rewired my mast. Hunter's (1982) version was to run all wire inside the tube (1) where when reaching the piont of the steaming light, it had a 1 1/4 inch hole drilled thur the mast and the tube where the set of (2)wires exit to the steaming light and the other two go up to the anchor light. Problem one: I wanted deck lights added and I wanted the tricolor light at the top added to the existing lights. SO... lets see.. that's four hots and.. two grounds since my lights desired are Steaming/deck combo and anchor/tri-light masthead combo... but wanted to be able to control each on separate breakers. I used the Triplex wire in 14 gauge, thats three wires within one run and used two runs, (one to steaming/deck combo) and then (one to the top where the anchor/trilight combo) and thats it. Love it, added two more breakers to handle the two extra hots and that's it. I will attach photo of masthead light which is combo.. tri-light and anchor light. Ok, did not work, I'll post it in the photo forum. (Hunter 33)
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