i have a 23' oday..and i need to adjust tension on stay wires..can anyone tell me what the tension number should be?? i am using a loos guage tool
stay wire tension
- Thread starter fireone
- Start date
I have an O'Day 28 and have searched high and low for tension numbers for my standing rigging. I've read numerous different methods of adjusting my rigging tension and have come to several conclusions. First, there are no specific numbers published for stay tension on O'Day boats. Second, most published video or text instructions are wrong unless you're a competition sailor. I've finally resorted to adjusting the tensions evenly. I first adjusted all stays hand tight then if I adjust the starboard stay turnbuckle one half turn, I do the exact same to port. I also have a loos gauge and my aft stay is pretty tight but still doesn't measure the recommended tension on the gauge. I've buried my rail while sailing so I guess it isn't going to fall apart. From what I've learned, if you're on a tack and the opposite stays aren't loose then you're good to go. If it is loose, adjust both sides evenly. Just be careful, I've seen boats with the sides "oil canned" from too much tension on the stays.
Here is a table of breaking strengths. Figure 25% to 30%. Hayn rx's 40% which seems high to me. Engineers on this forum are the best source on that. The columns didn't copy correctly. The first is wire size. The second is 7x7 wire. The second and third are 7x19 316 grade ss. I don't know why there is a difference. See the table at:
http://www.hayn.com/tech/wire_breaking_strength.html
My point is that the tension on standing rigging is largely governed by the physical properties of the wire and not as much by the boat. If the rigger wants more tension he can specify bigger wire. Forestay length can be specified per boat and if your rig has pre-bend you may set differing tensions on the lowers. Backstay tension can be adjustable but shouldn't exceed a portion of the wire breaking strength (Others may specify yield strength - but I won't get into that.) You would probably be surprised at how little backstay tension it takes to bend a typical production boat.
Wire Breaking Strength (lbs)
All Hayn Rigging Turnbuckles are designed to exceed the breaking strength of 1x19 stainless steel rope in their corresponding wire size. However a safe working load of 40% of these amounts should not be exceeded!
Wire
Size 7x7
(316 Grade) 7x19
(316 Grade) 1x19
(316 Grade)
1/16" 360 405 425
3/32" 700 783 1020
1/8" 1360 1470 1780
5/32" 1860 2000 2800
3/16" 3200 3450 4000
7/32" 4300 4500 5350
1/4" 5075 5368 6900
9/32" 5800 6130 9360
5/16" 7496 7600 10600
3/8" 10560 11760 14800
7/16" - 15000 20000
1/2" - 20200 27000
9/16" - 24500 31200
5/8" - 30000 42000
3/4" - - 47660
« Return to Previous Page
http://www.hayn.com/tech/wire_breaking_strength.html
My point is that the tension on standing rigging is largely governed by the physical properties of the wire and not as much by the boat. If the rigger wants more tension he can specify bigger wire. Forestay length can be specified per boat and if your rig has pre-bend you may set differing tensions on the lowers. Backstay tension can be adjustable but shouldn't exceed a portion of the wire breaking strength (Others may specify yield strength - but I won't get into that.) You would probably be surprised at how little backstay tension it takes to bend a typical production boat.
Wire Breaking Strength (lbs)
All Hayn Rigging Turnbuckles are designed to exceed the breaking strength of 1x19 stainless steel rope in their corresponding wire size. However a safe working load of 40% of these amounts should not be exceeded!
Wire
Size 7x7
(316 Grade) 7x19
(316 Grade) 1x19
(316 Grade)
1/16" 360 405 425
3/32" 700 783 1020
1/8" 1360 1470 1780
5/32" 1860 2000 2800
3/16" 3200 3450 4000
7/32" 4300 4500 5350
1/4" 5075 5368 6900
9/32" 5800 6130 9360
5/16" 7496 7600 10600
3/8" 10560 11760 14800
7/16" - 15000 20000
1/2" - 20200 27000
9/16" - 24500 31200
5/8" - 30000 42000
3/4" - - 47660
« Return to Previous Page
It's a process, not a number.
In general, the process is
1) get the masthead centered. You can do this with the main halyard, or by hoisting a 50-foot tape to the top of the mast. Either way, you want to check and make sure that the distance from the masthead to the base of the shroud is the same on both sides. Adjust the upper shrouds until the distances match.
2) then, sight up the mast and see if it is straight. If there is any bend to one side, adjust the lower shrouds until the mast is straight.
3) when the mast is centered and "in column", snug all the shrouds evenly. they don't need to be "tight" at this point, just not sloppy. In general, if you pull on one of the wires and it deflects less than two inches, it is plenty tight at this state
4) Then go sailing, preferably on a moderate day (8-10 knots, tops). Put the boat hard on the wind and see if the leeward shrouds are loose. If they are, tighten them a little, then *tack* and tighten the new leeward shrouds the same amount. Repeat this until the leeward shrouds are snug when on the wind.
Then... lower sails and go back to #1. Check to see if the masthead is centered and the mast is straight under the masthead. If the mast is not centered, loosen one upper shroud slightly and tighten the other the same amount. If the mast is not straight under the masthead, loosen one lower shroud slightly and tighten the other the same amount.
Bottom line... tuning a rig isn't about hitting a number on a gauge - it is about getting the rigging so that it holds the mast straight and centered while you are sailing. The shrouds shouldn't be violin-string-tight, they should simply be adjusted until they support the mast correctly without any slop.
$.02
In general, the process is
1) get the masthead centered. You can do this with the main halyard, or by hoisting a 50-foot tape to the top of the mast. Either way, you want to check and make sure that the distance from the masthead to the base of the shroud is the same on both sides. Adjust the upper shrouds until the distances match.
2) then, sight up the mast and see if it is straight. If there is any bend to one side, adjust the lower shrouds until the mast is straight.
3) when the mast is centered and "in column", snug all the shrouds evenly. they don't need to be "tight" at this point, just not sloppy. In general, if you pull on one of the wires and it deflects less than two inches, it is plenty tight at this state
4) Then go sailing, preferably on a moderate day (8-10 knots, tops). Put the boat hard on the wind and see if the leeward shrouds are loose. If they are, tighten them a little, then *tack* and tighten the new leeward shrouds the same amount. Repeat this until the leeward shrouds are snug when on the wind.
Then... lower sails and go back to #1. Check to see if the masthead is centered and the mast is straight under the masthead. If the mast is not centered, loosen one upper shroud slightly and tighten the other the same amount. If the mast is not straight under the masthead, loosen one lower shroud slightly and tighten the other the same amount.
Bottom line... tuning a rig isn't about hitting a number on a gauge - it is about getting the rigging so that it holds the mast straight and centered while you are sailing. The shrouds shouldn't be violin-string-tight, they should simply be adjusted until they support the mast correctly without any slop.
$.02
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,945
It is called tuning for a reason. You are trying to set the rig for optimum performance. Racers need to point high and drive the boat. Cruisers tolerate less sailing performance for less strain on the parts of the boat that when broken means no cruising.
BG's guidance is spot on for tension. Remember as you tighten the shrouds you are increasing the downward force on the mast. This affects the boat shape. You can exert so much force that you change the hull shape. Tighter is not always better. In an upwind tack tighten the back stay, this pulls the forestay flattening the foresail. (A reason some boats have adjustable back stays. ) Then on a down wind tack loosing the back stay lets the mast head move forward. Reducing pressure on the mast step slackening the forestay and creating a fuller foresail.
Lots of sailing in different conditions will enrich your knowledge of what tuning your boat needs to give you the performance you desire.
As BG stated "shrouds shouldn't be violin tight".
Fair winds. And sail a lot.
BG's guidance is spot on for tension. Remember as you tighten the shrouds you are increasing the downward force on the mast. This affects the boat shape. You can exert so much force that you change the hull shape. Tighter is not always better. In an upwind tack tighten the back stay, this pulls the forestay flattening the foresail. (A reason some boats have adjustable back stays. ) Then on a down wind tack loosing the back stay lets the mast head move forward. Reducing pressure on the mast step slackening the forestay and creating a fuller foresail.
Lots of sailing in different conditions will enrich your knowledge of what tuning your boat needs to give you the performance you desire.
As BG stated "shrouds shouldn't be violin tight".
Fair winds. And sail a lot.