Stationary camera

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,717
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
I've got a Drift Ghost, it's waterproof to about 10' I think and works off of a remote or a cell phone app. The latest mount I used is on a cheap stabilizer gimbaled on a piece of conduit sticking out about 3 feet from the rail. I can reach it to change the battery, but it still gets most of the boat and crew in the shot, and the stabilizer keeps it pretty steady through tacks and jibes. $40 for the stabilizer on Amazon. Right now I'm working on a floating platform for the camera to leave in the water and sail around it to get stills and video of the boat.
The video in the link below has the camera up the mast, on the rail, and on the arch:
You can see different ways the camera was mounted in photos of the boat that are in the video.View attachment 116827
*REALLY* like that video! I wish I were close enough to crew for you.
 
Aug 11, 2011
759
catalina 22 Islamorada
For what it's worth, the chip clip is selling for about 60 Cdn, that's about 87 cents US these days.
Naa I could get the clip and I have a clamp that will clamp to the safety rail problem that I don't see me overcoming is when you were talking about to much movement in the x,y,z axis and it looking like crap. I know you can buy stuff to do it but it's all getting a little to much for little ol me.
 
Aug 1, 2011
3,972
Catalina 270 255 Wabamun. Welcome to the marina
No such thing as a dead horse when it comes to discussions of how to do stuff better.
The boat is the frame of reference in the video, in the case of the bridge approach, it might have been better to take a shot every second and splice that such that each shot is displayed for .15 seconds or so. The net effect would be that there are enough "filler" shots to remove the jumpy look this video has. Spacing them too far apart was what I was referring to originally, not only are all three planes moving, but the shots are so far apart that the frame of reference (the boat) is jumping around in all three planes against the horizon at the same time, and that makes it hard to watch. There needs to be enough filler to smooth it out because you cannot control the three axis movement, but you can "pin it" to a frame of reference, and make it work to your advantage. Hence the two ways to get the product, pin the boat as the frame of reference by attaching the camera fixed to the boat, or pin the camera to the horizon with a gimbal. As long as x, y OR z is relatively stable, it'll be easy to watch.

Here's a sample of what I mean; there's enough shots that the clouds moving across the scene are casting a shadow that moves in a nice linear fashion - it has a video look to it, and it's not hard to look at. If there had been say, 1/2 as many shots, the shadow would look jumpy and would take your eye away from the scene. The text says the crossing takes about 10 minutes, so there's probably something in the 600-1000 range for individual shots in each crossing.

There's no right or wrong way to do it, and nobody's going to rain on anybody for sharing their trip

Memory cards are cheap. I've never heard anybody say they took too many pictures and you never know when that one really cool shot will happen, and if you don't push the limits you'll never know!