common start problem
AS I OPERATE AN AUTO-ELECTRIC SHOP AND HAVE SEEN THIS PROBLEM NUMEROUS TIMES I HAVE A COUPLE OF SUGGESTIONS. FIRST,TO DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE A STARTER PROBLEM OR A CIRCUITRY PROBLEM THERE IS A TEST YOU CAN EASILY PERFORM TO DIAGNOSE THIS SITUATION. LOOK AT THE CONNECTIONS AT THE SOLENOID(ON TOP OF THE STARTER) YOU WILL SEE THE BATTERY(POSITIVE)CABLE ATTACHES TO THE MAIN SOLENOID TERMINAL.THERE IS ALSO A SMALLER TERMINAL CALLED A "SWITCH TERMINAL(SOMETIMES A SMALL STUD,SOMETIMES A "PUSH-ON",OR "SPADE" TERMINAL.IF YOU USE A SHORT PIECE OF 10GA. WIRE TO"JUMP" OR CONNECT THE SWITCH TERMINAL TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL THE STARTER SHOULD OPERATE INSTANTLY.THIS SHOULD BE DONE ONLY MOMENTARILY AS A TEST AT THE TIME THAT YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START FROM THE KEY SWITCH.IF IT CRANKS EVERY TIME BY "JUMPING" THE SOLENOID,THAT TELLS YOU THAT YOUR STARTER IS JUST FINE AND THAT THE PROBLEM IS A LOSS OF POWER IN THE "SWITCHING" CIRCUIT.IT MAY BE DUE TO A FAULTY KEY SWITCH(CORRODED CONTACTS)OR LESS THAN PERFECT CONNECTIONS ELSEWHERE IN THAT SAME CIRCUIT.A FIX I HAVE USED MANY TIMES IS TO WIRE IN A RELAY (OFTEN CALLED A "SLAVE" RELAY MOUNTED AT THE STARTER SOLENOID AND WIRED CONNECTED IN SUCH A WAY AS TO USE THE ORIGINAL "SWITCH LEAD TO ACTIVATE THE RELAY,THEN THE RELAY WILL ACTIVATE THE SOLENOID.YOU SEE,THE RELAY ONLY NEEDS THE KEY SWITCH TO PROVIDE 1 AMP OF CURRENT TO CLOSE IT,BUT THE ORIGINAL STARTER SOLENOID NEEDS APPROXIAMATELY 20-30 AMPS TO OPERATE IT. YOUR TOWN,I'M SUREHAS A LOCAL AUTO-ELECTRIC SHOP WHO CAN PROVIDE A RELAYAND A DIAGRAM FOR YOU,IF NOT PLEASE CONTACT ME AT 203-878-4629 DURING WORKING HOURS,I'LL BE GLAD TO HELP. BY THE WAY,WHEN YOU "JUMP"THE SOLENOID BE BE SURE YOU ARE IN NUETRAL AND YOU ARE CLEAR OF MOVING ENGINE PARTS. GOOD LUCK! TONY BARBIN S/V SUMMER WINDS MILFORD,CONN.
