Probably ok if you don't have glow plugs or screens. Don't use it when the engine is warm
Starting fluid
- Thread starter CYQK
- Start date
Mike
Yes can spray without glow plug on
Aquired a new ZF12M gear this winter and about to finish re assemble
Have a fine fuel system just want to help the process for the first start
Great responses wanted to use this time to ask about the dos and dont of start fluid use
Yes can spray without glow plug on
Aquired a new ZF12M gear this winter and about to finish re assemble
Have a fine fuel system just want to help the process for the first start
Great responses wanted to use this time to ask about the dos and dont of start fluid use
Logically, if you use less than the LEL (lower explosive limit) the fluid cannot detonate on the upstroke, and can only serve to provide something just a little easier to light when the rest of the fuel comes in, making up for imperfect atomization. How you gauge "just enough" closer to guesswork, but starting with very little and increasing only a little makes sense. No constant spraying, in the belief that more is better. You really want to stay below the LEL.
I would wait and try to start it conventionally. If it's properly bled, it should fire right up. Only resort to starting fluid if it fails to start and it's an emergency, in my opinion.
I remember seeing out on a cold cold flight line I thin in Germany a crusty old crew chief going out to some piece of equipment that would not start spraying the intake with something, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, starting fluid, probably whatever was handy then pulling out his lighter lighting a cigarette then holding it out to whatever he just sprayed. Put his Zippo away as the flame went out told the Airman to try it again and vroom vroom it started right up. He said to the kid that's how you do it but do not try it on your own.
Not many hair dryers out on the ramp and no place to plug it in if you found one but I guess the same theory.
Not many hair dryers out on the ramp and no place to plug it in if you found one but I guess the same theory.
Completely true unfortunately the LEL of ether is 1.7% in atmos. Tough to figure out when the atmosphere is sucking into the engine. Also considering he’s trying to get it to fire to prime the system….he might as well crank the engine over to prime it or do it the proper way.
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The wife and I just test fired Impetuous' engine after 18 months on the hard, getting ready to splash on Wednesday. A bit of glow plug preheat and it fired right up. Shut it back down because I didn't want to really stress my "run dry" impeller that much.
wayne, just 1 second can tear up a dry impeller. sending chunks towards the exchanger. please check impeller before you splash. ten minutes now could save you big headaches next week.
rule number one: never ever ever spin a dry impeller. never ever.
prolly just throw in a new one for grins
jon
ps: love tartan 37s
rule number one: never ever ever spin a dry impeller. never ever.
prolly just throw in a new one for grins
jon
ps: love tartan 37s
Run-Dry ® Impellerswayne, just 1 second can tear up a dry impeller. sending chunks towards the exchanger. please check impeller before you splash. ten minutes now could save you big headaches next week.
rule number one: never ever ever spin a dry impeller. never ever.
prolly just throw in a new one for grins
jon
ps: love tartan 37s
The OP said " I didn't want to really stress my "run dry" impeller that much."
me, i change them every season on all my boats. but that's just me.
i have 4 sailboats, only one with an engine
i have 4 motorboats
what's the loudest noise on a motorboat? the sound of the engine stopping
i have 4 sailboats, only one with an engine
i have 4 motorboats
what's the loudest noise on a motorboat? the sound of the engine stopping
I know that starting fluid is a no no for diesel engine combustion, but then I know people in the construction trades who have equipment with all sorts of diesel engine sizes and they use starting fluid in cold weather. Some have mentioned that bleeding the engine might be the problem. Also water in the system or contamination can be a cause for engine starting failure. Usually if it is water, it's because the rubber o-ring around the fill cap is shot. If contamination, it could be because of algae forming in the fuel. An additive like Bio-Bor or Killem might help dissipate the crud. The worse scenario is you have to clean the tank or polish the fuel. And in some cases compression might be the problem if the engine has been sitting long enough without lubrication where the rings start to rust and hence a good seal to is lost to create the necessary compression to start the engine. In that case, I have used an ounce or so of diesel poured onto the top of the cylinders, or Marvelous Mystery Oil, which creates a temporary compression and the engine fires.
Marvel Mystery Oil
Have a container of the stuff in my shop
Folks in this part of the world talk about it . Never thought to use it for engine starting...will give it a try
Thanks
Have a container of the stuff in my shop
Folks in this part of the world talk about it . Never thought to use it for engine starting...will give it a try
Thanks
Must be a large engine to be able to pour anywhere near a ounce of liquid into the cylinder and not hydro lock. Maybe t
Mystery Oil (wiki) is mostly mineral oil which has a Flash Point of 275F. This is the temp it must be raised to to generate vapors capable of ignition. Diesels is around 175f. Flash Point is dramatically effected by pressure but being that they would both be exposed to the same enviroment.....diesel would be a more appropriate fuel to start a cold diesel. Wiki shows that it also has mineral spirits also which is a lower FP but if I was going to grab one or the other, I'd grab diesel. If your using it to increase compression then ok but I wouldn't be putting in any more than a couple tenths of a ounce each. If you at that point then you need a rebuild in my opinion.