Hello All, I have a Hunter 336. When I turn the key to start the engine and then press the starter button, nothing happens. There is no sound of turning the engine. I press the starter button again and she starts right up. This happens at times. The batteries are new and I have applied some WD-40 to the wire connections on the starter button. I was thinking of replacing the starter button. Any ideas / help will be greatly appreciated. Amir
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Starting issues
I have a 1986 Hunter 28.5 with a Yanmar 2GM20F. What you describe seems to be a somewhat common problem with aging Yanmars and their wiring harnesses. My engine began to develop the same symptoms a few years ago. Perhaps like you, I began the process of trying to find and fix the problem by taking off all the connections from the battery to the starter solenoid and cleaning and tightening them (turned out to be worthwhile as I found some loose crimps, but did not fix the starting problem). I also replaced the starter button, which also did not fix the problem. Eventually, I read about, and did the following (which DID fix the problem): I bought a 12vdc relay at an auto parts store and installed it across the starter solenoid terminals. I added a 30 amp ATO fuse in the hot wire. The whole thing cost about $30 and I've had no starting problems since. I personally think that the cause of this commom problem is that as the wiring harness ages, it can no longer deliver the needed power to the starter. But replacing the entire harness would be an expensive and time consuming job. This fix worked for me; perhaps it will for you, too. Good luck as this is an annoying problem.
I have a 1986 Hunter 28.5 with a Yanmar 2GM20F. What you describe seems to be a somewhat common problem with aging Yanmars and their wiring harnesses. My engine began to develop the same symptoms a few years ago. Perhaps like you, I began the process of trying to find and fix the problem by taking off all the connections from the battery to the starter solenoid and cleaning and tightening them (turned out to be worthwhile as I found some loose crimps, but did not fix the starting problem). I also replaced the starter button, which also did not fix the problem. Eventually, I read about, and did the following (which DID fix the problem): I bought a 12vdc relay at an auto parts store and installed it across the starter solenoid terminals. I added a 30 amp ATO fuse in the hot wire. The whole thing cost about $30 and I've had no starting problems since. I personally think that the cause of this commom problem is that as the wiring harness ages, it can no longer deliver the needed power to the starter. But replacing the entire harness would be an expensive and time consuming job. This fix worked for me; perhaps it will for you, too. Good luck as this is an annoying problem.
Alternative
This is indeed a frequent and scary problem, but one easy fix is to jump the starter by holding a key behind the starter switch to make the connection. If after three tries you don't get ignition, try it.
This is indeed a frequent and scary problem, but one easy fix is to jump the starter by holding a key behind the starter switch to make the connection. If after three tries you don't get ignition, try it.
Yeah, it's the harness.
I replaced mine. It's the plugs that join the harness segments that cause so much grief. When I bought my new harness I coated the plug contacts with silicone. I used grease but the spray stuff would work too. My complete harness with one intermediate extension was less than a hundred dollars as I recall. That was in '02. Good luck.
I replaced mine. It's the plugs that join the harness segments that cause so much grief. When I bought my new harness I coated the plug contacts with silicone. I used grease but the spray stuff would work too. My complete harness with one intermediate extension was less than a hundred dollars as I recall. That was in '02. Good luck.
I’m having a cranking problem
with my 2001 1GM10 and have spent considerable time reading the many postings on this subject at this site. However, I have never been able to confirm the similarity of symptoms. Amir, when you say “nothing happens”, I presume that nothing means NOTHING. When I push the starter button, sometimes she cranks like a champ. However, when she doesn’t crank, there’s a single, distinct, metallic click. Repeat attempts have always (thus far) resulted in cranking and starting. I’m not capable of repairing this myself and it just so happens that the yard mechanic diagnosed it yesterday as a faulty solenoid. It hasn’t been replaced yet, so I can’t comment on the diagnosis. They’re having problems locating a replacement solenoid - it may not be available as a separate piece. Paul s/v Pretty Lady
with my 2001 1GM10 and have spent considerable time reading the many postings on this subject at this site. However, I have never been able to confirm the similarity of symptoms. Amir, when you say “nothing happens”, I presume that nothing means NOTHING. When I push the starter button, sometimes she cranks like a champ. However, when she doesn’t crank, there’s a single, distinct, metallic click. Repeat attempts have always (thus far) resulted in cranking and starting. I’m not capable of repairing this myself and it just so happens that the yard mechanic diagnosed it yesterday as a faulty solenoid. It hasn’t been replaced yet, so I can’t comment on the diagnosis. They’re having problems locating a replacement solenoid - it may not be available as a separate piece. Paul s/v Pretty Lady
Paul again on a sidenote.
Again I defy the logic that on a 2001 boat you could have a bad solenoid or starter. They just dont typically go bad. The problem is upstream in the harness as Fred said. Not that my fix is the "goo", its just a way to do it among several. AND any auxillary equipment on the harness is still hooked up since I only unhooked the lead at the starter button and down at the solenoid. Voltage drop is by far the most common problem. Check yours. You probably have a 5 to 10 percent drop by the time it gets to the solenoid from all the junctions in the harness. And 11 volts will buy you and intermittant start.
Again I defy the logic that on a 2001 boat you could have a bad solenoid or starter. They just dont typically go bad. The problem is upstream in the harness as Fred said. Not that my fix is the "goo", its just a way to do it among several. AND any auxillary equipment on the harness is still hooked up since I only unhooked the lead at the starter button and down at the solenoid. Voltage drop is by far the most common problem. Check yours. You probably have a 5 to 10 percent drop by the time it gets to the solenoid from all the junctions in the harness. And 11 volts will buy you and intermittant start.
relay wiring
I have written this up a few times. Purchase a small 12 volt DC relay from Radio Shack or any electrical shop. A relay is a switch which consists of two low current terminals and two high current terminals. The flow of current through the low current side trips an internal switch to flow current through the high current side. Mine is located right on top of the solenoid. The wires attached to the terminals hold it in place. To install: (Turn off the main battery swtich) First disconnect from the selenoid the wire coming from the starter button. Connect this wire to a low side terminal on the relay. With a new wire ground the other low side relay terminal. Next run a short new wire from the starter terminal (the one with the heavy red wire running to the battery). This is likey right below the solenoid. Connect this wire to a high current side relay terminal. With a new wire connect the other high side terminal to the solenoid. Your job is complete. The solenoid will now get a strong current flow to enable it to turn on the starter and in turn your engine. This set up has worked every time for over four years.
I have written this up a few times. Purchase a small 12 volt DC relay from Radio Shack or any electrical shop. A relay is a switch which consists of two low current terminals and two high current terminals. The flow of current through the low current side trips an internal switch to flow current through the high current side. Mine is located right on top of the solenoid. The wires attached to the terminals hold it in place. To install: (Turn off the main battery swtich) First disconnect from the selenoid the wire coming from the starter button. Connect this wire to a low side terminal on the relay. With a new wire ground the other low side relay terminal. Next run a short new wire from the starter terminal (the one with the heavy red wire running to the battery). This is likey right below the solenoid. Connect this wire to a high current side relay terminal. With a new wire connect the other high side terminal to the solenoid. Your job is complete. The solenoid will now get a strong current flow to enable it to turn on the starter and in turn your engine. This set up has worked every time for over four years.
Starting Issues, Pt II
Paul J: The problem you describe certainly sounds like a faulty starter solenoid, which may be available from Torrensen for about $96-- see link below. The symptom of the problem I had, and perhaps that of Amir too, was when you turned on the ignition key, and then hit the starter button, absolutely NOTHING happened and there was NO clicking noise from anywhere, just the sound of silence. The 12 vdc relay I described below seems to have fixed my problem. Fred: when you replaced your harness, did you get a complete kit that included all the wires to/from the instrument panel, water temp and oil sensor, etc?
Paul J: The problem you describe certainly sounds like a faulty starter solenoid, which may be available from Torrensen for about $96-- see link below. The symptom of the problem I had, and perhaps that of Amir too, was when you turned on the ignition key, and then hit the starter button, absolutely NOTHING happened and there was NO clicking noise from anywhere, just the sound of silence. The 12 vdc relay I described below seems to have fixed my problem. Fred: when you replaced your harness, did you get a complete kit that included all the wires to/from the instrument panel, water temp and oil sensor, etc?
Warren,
thanks!!! I've also had good luck with them and had already passed their contact information onto the local yard. Paul
thanks!!! I've also had good luck with them and had already passed their contact information onto the local yard. Paul
Could be the switch, Could be the Starter,...
...Could be the Solenoid, Could be a faulty Ground, Could be the Harness. These are the potential problems that I have heard for 10 years. I have had the same, persistent problem, so over the years: 1. I changed the starter button - didn't work. 2. I searched the Ground - no luck. 3. I checked the harness - no luck. 4. I rebuilt the starter - helped, but happened again. 5. I had the solenoid checked (bench tested) - checked out OK. I was told it was a bad ground somewhere. This year I had the starter brushes replaced. This helped, but the 5th try, it happened again. My batteries have always been fine. I have exhausted the options, so my remedy is to jump it with a screw driver when it happens. Now, I am warned that this could cause a problem and burn up the whole starter. I have lived with this and I think this will continue. If ANYBODY find out a REAL solution, please inform me. Otherwise, I think we will continue to beat this to death to no avail.
...Could be the Solenoid, Could be a faulty Ground, Could be the Harness. These are the potential problems that I have heard for 10 years. I have had the same, persistent problem, so over the years: 1. I changed the starter button - didn't work. 2. I searched the Ground - no luck. 3. I checked the harness - no luck. 4. I rebuilt the starter - helped, but happened again. 5. I had the solenoid checked (bench tested) - checked out OK. I was told it was a bad ground somewhere. This year I had the starter brushes replaced. This helped, but the 5th try, it happened again. My batteries have always been fine. I have exhausted the options, so my remedy is to jump it with a screw driver when it happens. Now, I am warned that this could cause a problem and burn up the whole starter. I have lived with this and I think this will continue. If ANYBODY find out a REAL solution, please inform me. Otherwise, I think we will continue to beat this to death to no avail.
To Paul Akers
You seem to have tried all the fixes others mentioned except adding the 12 volt relay across the starter solenoid, as described by Warren and others in great detail. If you can start your engine by jumping the starter, it really sounds like your wiring impedence is the problem and you just ain't getting the volts/amps to the starter. If so, the relay will fix that. Have you tried connecting a VOM to the starter and then cranking and seeing what kind of juice is getting to the starter? That would be a start....
You seem to have tried all the fixes others mentioned except adding the 12 volt relay across the starter solenoid, as described by Warren and others in great detail. If you can start your engine by jumping the starter, it really sounds like your wiring impedence is the problem and you just ain't getting the volts/amps to the starter. If so, the relay will fix that. Have you tried connecting a VOM to the starter and then cranking and seeing what kind of juice is getting to the starter? That would be a start....
The sans solonoid solutions
Well the solenoid on a solenoid solution works but seems like asking for more maintenance issues. There are several alternatives all of them the same. 1 Mount a pushbutton starter switch in the conpanyonway and run it from the selector switch common to the solenoid start terminal. Now the crew gets involved in starting the motor! 2 Do the same thing to the stock starter switch. Yes, that hot wires it and kids could come and press the putton till your battery is dead but not likely. 3. Redo the wiring so it works right by running a new hot from the + pole on the starter to the ignition switch and another from the starter switch to the solenoid. Just don't use any connectors make it one length of wire each way. You can leave the old wires in place as it is just "along for the ride and not doing anything. It is not that hard to run 2 wires from the engine to the instrument panel at the helm. If you use duplex wire (colors will be wrong but just document them in the ships books) you only have to run 1 wire in effect.
Well the solenoid on a solenoid solution works but seems like asking for more maintenance issues. There are several alternatives all of them the same. 1 Mount a pushbutton starter switch in the conpanyonway and run it from the selector switch common to the solenoid start terminal. Now the crew gets involved in starting the motor! 2 Do the same thing to the stock starter switch. Yes, that hot wires it and kids could come and press the putton till your battery is dead but not likely. 3. Redo the wiring so it works right by running a new hot from the + pole on the starter to the ignition switch and another from the starter switch to the solenoid. Just don't use any connectors make it one length of wire each way. You can leave the old wires in place as it is just "along for the ride and not doing anything. It is not that hard to run 2 wires from the engine to the instrument panel at the helm. If you use duplex wire (colors will be wrong but just document them in the ships books) you only have to run 1 wire in effect.
Pete
I know that I haven't tried the special wiring, but I'm not at that level of expertise for setting up electrical wiring. And the problem is getting less frequent. That is why I'm dealing with the problem as I have. Besides, another inexpensive "reason" should soon crop up to fix the solution that I may try. Thanks for the info.
I know that I haven't tried the special wiring, but I'm not at that level of expertise for setting up electrical wiring. And the problem is getting less frequent. That is why I'm dealing with the problem as I have. Besides, another inexpensive "reason" should soon crop up to fix the solution that I may try. Thanks for the info.
Glow Plug Heat-Up?
I don't have a deisel engine on my boat... but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night! I hate to ask these questions, but is your engine deisel? If so, are you waiting for your glow plugs to suficiently heat up before you push the start button? Sorry, but I just HAD to ask. BrianW
I don't have a deisel engine on my boat... but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night! I hate to ask these questions, but is your engine deisel? If so, are you waiting for your glow plugs to suficiently heat up before you push the start button? Sorry, but I just HAD to ask. BrianW
BrianW
FYI--There are no glow plugs on Yanmar engines. That's why they get hard to start in cool weather, like we have here in MI. Std. start procedure is throttle 3/4 full, then back off when it starts.
FYI--There are no glow plugs on Yanmar engines. That's why they get hard to start in cool weather, like we have here in MI. Std. start procedure is throttle 3/4 full, then back off when it starts.
Install a relay
Inconsistent starting is common problem with Yanmar's. I had the same problem---sometimes the starter would turn over, sometimes not. After three or four times it would always start, but I was always nervous. I installed a relay two years ago, as so many have noted in the archives. Solved the problem so completely that I had forgotten about it until I read this thread...
Inconsistent starting is common problem with Yanmar's. I had the same problem---sometimes the starter would turn over, sometimes not. After three or four times it would always start, but I was always nervous. I installed a relay two years ago, as so many have noted in the archives. Solved the problem so completely that I had forgotten about it until I read this thread...
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