Starter Mystery

[nveater]

So like many yanmar owners, I installed a solenoid relay switch to help with starting and it has worked well this year. I did notice several times that unit was warm (before starting) when doing work on the engine.

Last night after a club race, I went to push the starter button and nothing happened- even the alarm that usually sounds when you turn the key was very weak. I tried to jump start the engine with the screw driver across the two poles on the starter and nothing happened. My instruments were working so there was some battery juice. I have two 105 amp Deka batteries new this season and the switch was set to Both. I was able to sail successfully back into the slip the air being light and my wife biting her tongue

Today I removed the relay switch and reconnected the old way- tightened the battery terminal connections and the engine fired right up. However when I tried a second time nothing. A fellow boater wise in electrical ways suggested trying one battery and then the other which I did and it worked. I then looked in the battery cells and topped off the with distilled water- one cell on one battery was down low but plates still covered and when I removed the positive terminals of that battery there was a fair amount of white battery corrosion which I cleaned off - the other battery terminals were fine but I buffed them up. I was then able to start the engine on either battery and checked to make sure that the alternator was charging the battery that was on.

I am stumped onto the root cause of the starting issue seems like power was not getting to the starter - Bad cell in one battery was draining them both since they were connected ? Any thoughts , ideas would be appreciated

Also I was contemplating about having an extra starter I see the Yanmar one is about $412 while non yanmars- Hitachi etc go from anywhere from $70- $250 any thoughts about OEM vs after market

Thanks

 

[Stu Jackson]

nv,

Very good description.

The answer lies in continuing to do your detective work, one step at a time.

99% of electrical issues are the connections, so don't forget the starter solenoid (in addition to the electrical one you added, which should still work or be replaced).

When NOTHING HAPPENS, as you describe, it means "juice" ain't gettin' to where it's supposed to go, right?

A good friend once told me: "ONLY do ONE thing at a time and check the results."

I find it wise caution, 'cuz then you know what works and doesn't and can narrow your search to the culprit.

It's like a good murder mystery book!

You did two things at one time. While once you know both of them together worked, once it started dieing again you don't know which is the weak link.

Go back to Sherlock Holmes - time. Enjoy. I always think of it as a safety thing: "If I hadda start the engine, right now!!!, would it?"

If it doesn't do that ALL THE TIME, you GOTTA find the fix.

Good luck, good reporting.

 

[RIVERCRUISER]

tractor starter should be less than $412.

 

[Johnb]

I have had experience of battery terminals and other connections being somewhat intermittent if they are dirty and/or a little loose. That can lead to confusing symptoms.

The advice to go thoroughly through all of the connections, clean and tighten is good. I would do that before starting to suspect expensive stuff.

 

[Bill Roosa]

If the buzzer did not go off the whole panel was not getting power. Assume the panel and all wiring down stream is OK till you can confirm that the panel is getting power and firing up the buzzer.

 

[rardiH36]

Also I was contemplating about having an extra starter I see the Yanmar one is about $412 while non yanmars- Hitachi etc go from anywhere from $70- $250 any thoughts about OEM vs after market

Thanks

Only about 1.5 weeks ago, I posted on Ask All Sailors if anyone had real world experience with after-market starters. Several replies with suggestion about fixing my existing starter, but not one response from anybody with an after market starter. My starter's brushes (~1979 Hitachi starter motor mated to a Yanmar 2QM20 engine) had worn down to barely making contact with the comutator. I found a supplier on-line for the brush plate with new brushes. Starter goes vroom again!

 

[Sailm8]

I've been using and aftermarket starter for 2 years and had no problems and it was an exact swap. Cost was $80 on ebay I think. Plan to someday have the old one refurbished as a backup.