I have a H34 1983, I've read many articles in the archives regarding cold start thats goes well and "warm" start that would or not start. Got the same problems. Do anyone knows the manufacturer of the original Yanmar starter/solenoid ? Anyone out there tried wit a different starter/solenoid ? Could they be rebuild ? Thanks André Wind Spirit 3
Starter manufacturer for a H34
- Thread starter André R.
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Maybe not the starter..
Andre, the biggest problem relating to starting issues is not the starter but the solenoid. And its not the solenoid directly but, the lack of voltage getting to it so it can pull in the starter. The wire harness has corrosion around the connectors that produces voltage drop so the solenoid does not have enough voltage to pull in. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not. There are at least two connectors from the 3GM to the Yanmar panel. Find the one that has the 10 Gauge wire(Follow the solenoid wire to the connector). Pull that connector apart and clean up the contacts (male and female) really good. Use a fine wire brush. Also clean the contacts in the upper connector next to the control panel. The connector near the engine is the biggest corrosion point. Other alternatives/solutions have been to run a redundant wire in parallel with the control harness wire to eliminate the connection issues or, install a smaller control relay to pull the solenoid in. The control relay basically uses the wire harness to drive its coil and the contactor of the relay is then wired into the solenoid. It basically acts as a current reducer for the cable harness so voltage drop in the harness is not an issue. With this method, the new relay contacts are almost a direct connection to the solenoid and this almost eliminates voltage drop.
Andre, the biggest problem relating to starting issues is not the starter but the solenoid. And its not the solenoid directly but, the lack of voltage getting to it so it can pull in the starter. The wire harness has corrosion around the connectors that produces voltage drop so the solenoid does not have enough voltage to pull in. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not. There are at least two connectors from the 3GM to the Yanmar panel. Find the one that has the 10 Gauge wire(Follow the solenoid wire to the connector). Pull that connector apart and clean up the contacts (male and female) really good. Use a fine wire brush. Also clean the contacts in the upper connector next to the control panel. The connector near the engine is the biggest corrosion point. Other alternatives/solutions have been to run a redundant wire in parallel with the control harness wire to eliminate the connection issues or, install a smaller control relay to pull the solenoid in. The control relay basically uses the wire harness to drive its coil and the contactor of the relay is then wired into the solenoid. It basically acts as a current reducer for the cable harness so voltage drop in the harness is not an issue. With this method, the new relay contacts are almost a direct connection to the solenoid and this almost eliminates voltage drop.
Good Advice
Good advice given by previous poster. Only thing I might add is I like to use a brass bristled wire brush on these electrical projects, and some solvent/lubricant like WD40 etc. Cleans connectors up real nice. The brass wire brushes are readily available, and are cheap, more gentle than a real wire brush. Look kind of like a big tooth brush.
Good advice given by previous poster. Only thing I might add is I like to use a brass bristled wire brush on these electrical projects, and some solvent/lubricant like WD40 etc. Cleans connectors up real nice. The brass wire brushes are readily available, and are cheap, more gentle than a real wire brush. Look kind of like a big tooth brush.
Bad design
It is not so much corrosion but just the number of connections that the circuit has. On my 37.5 legend there are 12 connections. With a 0.2 volt drop on each one in the best of conditions that is 2.4 volts drop or a best voltage the solenoid sees of 9.8 volts. If you let the battery sit a while you get a slightly higher surface charge and that can activate the solenoid but after the engine is hot and you have been using stuff, even small stuff, the voltage is down to 12.2 and you are screwed. Either rewire with fewer connections, add an aux solenoid or add a dedicated starter button that is hot wired to the batts.
It is not so much corrosion but just the number of connections that the circuit has. On my 37.5 legend there are 12 connections. With a 0.2 volt drop on each one in the best of conditions that is 2.4 volts drop or a best voltage the solenoid sees of 9.8 volts. If you let the battery sit a while you get a slightly higher surface charge and that can activate the solenoid but after the engine is hot and you have been using stuff, even small stuff, the voltage is down to 12.2 and you are screwed. Either rewire with fewer connections, add an aux solenoid or add a dedicated starter button that is hot wired to the batts.
Hey Andre'!
Are these guys good or what? Follow their advice and your engine will start perfectly. I replaced my harness. It was too far gone. Instead of WD40 I coated all contacts with silicone grease. Good for a lifetime.
Are these guys good or what? Follow their advice and your engine will start perfectly. I replaced my harness. It was too far gone. Instead of WD40 I coated all contacts with silicone grease. Good for a lifetime.
Thanks to all
With all your comments and what I read in this forum, I plan in changing or replacing the wire that runs from the start button to the sollenoid, with a higher grade like 12GA. Concerning the push button I havent checked it yet but I do how since I've changed the panel few years ago, is there more than one wire plugged to it ? Something else, many talked about the numerous wires in the harness, in my boat there's at least 3 to 5 wires that are not hooked to anything,atthe engine side, can I take them ouT ? And finally, I'm still looking for the manufacturer's info cause I'll probably will take the starter and solenoid out next spring to have it check, but I'd like to have a price range from the shop first. Thanks again André
With all your comments and what I read in this forum, I plan in changing or replacing the wire that runs from the start button to the sollenoid, with a higher grade like 12GA. Concerning the push button I havent checked it yet but I do how since I've changed the panel few years ago, is there more than one wire plugged to it ? Something else, many talked about the numerous wires in the harness, in my boat there's at least 3 to 5 wires that are not hooked to anything,atthe engine side, can I take them ouT ? And finally, I'm still looking for the manufacturer's info cause I'll probably will take the starter and solenoid out next spring to have it check, but I'd like to have a price range from the shop first. Thanks again André
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