Starter for YSM 8 and YSM12

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Nov 8, 2004
56
Cape Dory 30 Ketch Kemah, Texas
Does anyone know if a starter from a Yanmar YSM8 and a YSM12 are the same?
I also have YSM 8 for sale for transmission and parts.
A bad day on the water is still better than any day working!
 
Mar 2, 2008
406
Cal 25 mk II T-Bird Marina, West Vancouver
The YSM8 / YSM12 manual indicates they are the same part munber "S114-194". If you don't have a manual, get one.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
Make sure the problem is the starter. This summer I had an intermittent (Yamar SB12) starter and put a meter on the solenoid output (no voltage.) I failed to check the input. I later discovered that I had another solenoid in the control console that was corroded. It only cost $29 as opposed to $550 I was quoted for a starter and solenoid (they only sell them together) I''m sure glad I didn't order the new starter.

The starter itself is simple and easy to work on. Any automotive electrical shop should be able to rebuild it for you if it needs it, but the solenoid is a different story and they don't sell them without the starter.
 
Dec 20, 2011
101
Cal 28 Eagle River
I have a YSM 8 , my starter solenoid is shot, to start ,I cross with pliers and starter works fine & starts fast. This summer I decided to order a new starter off Ebay $120.00 , Only it wouldn't start the motor ! turned it over but would not do the trick- So I changed back & starts just fine as long as you don't mined the pliers . Has anyone else had this problem or did I just get a Bad starter? --Dale
 
Jul 5, 2007
196
Kenner Privateer 26 schooner, Carlyle Illinois
I have a YSM 8 , my starter solenoid is shot, to start ,I cross with pliers and starter works fine & starts fast. This summer I decided to order a new starter off Ebay $120.00 , Only it wouldn't start the motor ! turned it over but would not do the trick- So I changed back & starts just fine as long as you don't mined the pliers . Has anyone else had this problem or did I just get a Bad starter? --Dale
I had the same problem on my YSE8 starter replacement. It just wouldn't spin fast enough to start the diesel. I put the old starter back on. (same problem with the solenoid as yours). I bought a battery disconnect swithch from Harbor Freight, and wired it directly to the solenoid studs. That alowed me to start the motor without having to "short out" the solenoid with pliers. Just remember to turn the switch off as soon as the motor starts.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I have a YSM 8 , my starter solenoid is shot, to start ,I cross with pliers and starter works fine & starts fast. This summer I decided to order a new starter off Ebay $120.00 , Only it wouldn't start the motor ! turned it over but would not do the trick- So I changed back & starts just fine as long as you don't mined the pliers . Has anyone else had this problem or did I just get a Bad starter? --Dale
You probably have a bad/corroded/high resistance starter 'primary circuit' ... and there is enough 'voltage' getting to the solenoid to 'energize' it. This is a VERY common problem with older Yanmars. Yanmar used non-tinned wiring in the 'control panel' ... and over time wiring, the keyswitch, the 'pushbutton, and the in line fuse (and fuse holder) become corroded and oxidized .... hence 'voltage drop' at the solenoid. If the solenoid works 'well' when 'jumped' then most commonly there is lots of 'electrical resistance' in the starter-solenoid primary circuit: Battery-->key switch --> starter button --> fuse (usually mounted on the engine) and ALL the wiring and wiring connectors in this 'circuit'.

How to assay (use a digital voltmeter) :)

1. Measure battery voltage AT the batt side of the keyswitch, use a good electrical ground when measuring.
2. turn key and measure on the 'solenoid side' of the keyswiitch ..... if voltage is markedly lower - replace switch or clean switch connections, etc.
3. measure at batt side of 'push button' .... push the button and measure voltage on the 'solenoid side' .... if voltage markedly lower, either clean the carbon off of the internal contacts or replace the switch.
4. fuse holder .... clean connections / replace as needed .... best is to replace the entire fuse holder.
5... etc. etc. etc.

Repeat voltage drop test on the (heavy gage) 'secondary' wiring to the starter ... do the SAME on the 'ground' circuit - ALL the WAY back and including the batt. negative/ground terminal.

Resistance (corrosion/oxidation) in the primary or secondary circuits will cause the voltage to be lower .... and the amperage draw higher (power = amps X voltage)

As needed, replace wire with tinned wire of 'heavier' wire gage. Use tinned replacement connectors. For extreme reliability replace/rebuild the ENTIRE 'primary circuit'.

;-)
 
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