Standing Rigging

Oct 30, 2019
1,459
6mm seems overkill, increasing the cost of the wire and all related fittings and adding extra weight to the rig. If you want extra strength in a 5mm wire check out DYFORM, aka Compacted Wire.There is also the Synthetic Rope option.I've used Hayn Marines Hi Mod compression fittings on two different forestays and will use them again. They have a special crown ring that is re-usable, rather than needing to replace the crushable wedge as in Sta-Lok fittings. I know that swageless fittings are costly, but they give you the option of making your own repairs or replacement as needed, without the need for special tools. You could carry a length of synthetic rope for use as an emergency stay. It's very strong and does not stretch. I use it for my lifelines.Petermostlyaboutboats.ca
 

n6ric

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Mar 19, 2010
208
Feb 12, 2008
337
The last time I checked, riggingonly.com had some good prices. 4-6 years ago it was something like $800 to rerig with hayn hi mods. No doubt, prices are up a lot since then. Tim
 
Jan 28, 2001
694
I think it was in a book called The Nature of Boats or The Elements of Boat Strength by David Gerr that I read the formula for calculating wire size for boats. I can not recall it and no longer have the book. We were getting ready to re-rig Lyric and I was thinking of going up a wire size from 3/16" to 7/32". After I did the calculations I found that the correct size was 1/8". Albin had already went up a size. Racing boats were advised to use a size larger than cruising boats. We went with 3/16" Sta-Loks. They have served us well. Looking on-line I see replacement wedges are $5.00 and cones $7.00. Sta-Lok also makes a double-ended fitting for connecting a broken stay. I don't currently see one for 3/16" but we do have one though. Anyone planning on using them should make one up, let the silicone cure and then try taking one apart. It's not easy!Looking on-line for conversion I get the following3mm = 1/8" 4mm = 5/32"5mm = 13/64"6mm = 15/64" 3/16" works out to 4.76mm Please check my math and all figures have been rounded. Considering wire and fitting costs along with weight aloft it might be worthwhile for someone to check the books for that formula. Walt, Lyric From: pjacobs55@...To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Thu, 24 Apr 2014 09:41:01 -0700Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Standing Rigging






6mm seems overkill, increasing the cost of the wire and all related fittings and adding extra weight to the rig. If you want extra strength in a 5mm wire check out DYFORM, aka Compacted Wire.There is also the Synthetic Rope option.I've used Hayn Marines Hi Mod compression fittings on two different forestays and will use them again. They have a special crown ring that is re-usable, rather than needing to replace the crushable wedge as in Sta-Lok fittings. I know that swageless fittings are costly, but they give you the option of making your own repairs or replacement as needed, without the need for special tools. You could carry a length of synthetic rope for use as an emergency stay. It's very strong and does not stretch. I use it for my lifelines.Petermostlyaboutboats.ca
 
Feb 13, 2010
528
Just as a little background I am an old machinist who had done a lot
of marine work and I have a lot of experience Stainless steel. And
at least some with rigging and some more experience with and over
rigged boat. First if all rust on stainless is not likely damaging
and is most likely not the stainless rusting but the steel rubbed
off the extruding dies and the cutting tools. I would polish the
rust off in some places and then look it over with a microscope or
strong magnifying glass. If you can see no cracks or pits in the
wire or fittings they are they are likely all right. If the
fittings are showing wear I would replace them. If you can find no
damage to the wire I would only only replace the fittings.
Stainless has a very good possibility of having crevice corrosion if
it is under salt water. Stainless above decks is a different story.
When wet by salt water and then subject to air and wind repassivates
its self and in this way further protects itself from corrosion. It
really is corrosion resistant and maybe corrossion proof if it gets
plenty of air with it's oxegine. The Nickel in stainless makes it
work harden so could be subject to cracking if the boat has been
sailed a lot. If the rigging is original after so may years for a
long ocean trip I would replace it, not because I think it will
break but because I would not want to go to sea and have it in the
back of my mind that it might fail. IF it's 10 years old and has not
been extensively raced I would spend the time to very carefully
inspect it and if you can find no pits or cracks. In all my 70 or
so years of sailing I have never seen a shroud suddenly beak and
drop a mast. I have seen many times where a single strand broke and
the skipper took the pressure off and the mast satyed up there. If a
fitting breaks there is a good chance you will loose the mast. So
be sure of them or replace them. I would would carry some extra wire
and some fittings and make what ever shroud might need to be
replaced if money is a big factor. Maye the no stretch rope might
be better to carry and a few fittings for it as that makes it easy
to make up a replacement.
My feelings are that the Vega sails so well on short canvas I can
see no reason to drive her hard. This also takes a lot of wear and
tare as well as fatigue off of you. In the ocean sailing I have done
it is fatigue that I consider the most dangerous to the success of
you trip. I would say the headstay is the most likely to suffer
from wear and its the one I would inspect the closest. Sail hanks or
rollerfurling have a tendency to scrube the passivation off the
stainless so it is subject to wear and without the protection of
opassivation is the most likely to corrode. I guess in this matter
a lot depends on how well healed you are and how much patience you
have as to when you will get to your destinations in you decision to
replace expensive rigging.

--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO


On 04/23/2014 01:15 PM,
ke.sharp01@... wrote:
 
Feb 28, 2006
127
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Very helpful post, Doug. Thanks.

Garry
V. 2427