Standing rigging stud threads on H23.5

[PropellerHead]

The stud end on one of the shrouds on my H23.5 is bent. I was thinking of cutting it off and replacing it with a swageless end like one of these:

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/Norseman-Swageless-4mm-5-32-Stud-with-5-16-UNF-p/nvn030-m0410.htm

According to the manual, the cable is 5/32 1x9 but it does not mention the size of the stud. The swageless fitting is 5/16 UNF. Does anyone know if this will fit?

 

[Dennis Kitchen]

The standard turnbuckles are 1/4 inch studs.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Propellor Head. The stud end is a 1/4 inch size. There are a couple of issues. First you will need to know the rotation of the stud either left or right hand turn. If not, you will need to buy the appropriate stud for that. Cannot remember which way the threads turned. Secondly, if you are not sure how to do this with the Norseman, best to lower your mast and take it or send it off to a rig shop. Not sure how close to Tampa but across the bay is SECO South who made the rigging for your boat originally. Not sure if Jean still works there or is retired but they are one who can help as well.
When cutting the wire, I use to tape the end where cutting tightly. If on the east coast of Florida, time to take the boat out now with a major blow coming.

 

[rgranger]

This site (SBO) sells the original part I've purchased two replacement T-bolts for my H26 from this site.

Go here and find the part you need....

http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/model.php?m=26&gclid=CK6Khej4n8wCFcNehgodcw4GNw

and you should have it before Friday.

 

[PropellerHead]

Unfortunately, the part that is bent is not the T-bolt. That would be easy to replace. It is the stud that is swaged onto the end of the cable. Here's a dumb question: Would you sail with the stud bent this much?

 

[rgranger]

Ah... I see.... yes that is a different problem... no I would not sail with that..

Try emailing the SBO people and ask for a quote to replace the entire piece. Rigging and all... It might be less than a few hundred bucks and once you figure in your time you will spend jerry rigging this... it might be worth it. Don't get me wrong.... I'm all for DIY projects and think your plan is worth doing but if you get the length wrong, you will end up buying it anyway. At least you will have the relative costs in front of you before you decide.

r

 

[PropellerHead]

Replacing the terminal with a swageless terminal counts as jerry rigging? I was under the impression that this was an equivalent replacement...

 

[CloudDiver]

Save yourself a bunch of money... just buy a new toggle/jaw end for the turnbuckle, make sure you get the correct left or right hand twist... use 5mm dyneema to replace the shroud.

 

[PropellerHead]

Well it looks like the swageless fitting isn't an option after all. Turns out it's actually shorter than the swaged version. This is confusing since I thought they were invented for this purpose. Oh Well..

@CloudDiver: I'm not really sure what you're describing. Have a link?

 

[rgranger]

Replacing the terminal with a swageless terminal counts as jerry rigging? I was under the impression that this was an equivalent replacement...

Oh... didn't mean to imply any slack work. Should have said DIY... and as I was typing my previous response, I was thinking about the possibility of partnering a SS cable to the existing cable using cable clamps... and that would have definitely been jerry. So that is where my head was. But that idea could keep you on the water for less than $20 until you get it fixed correctly. What I was thinking is a thimble and SS cable (Lowes or Tractor Supply) three cable clamps and a shackle. Put the shackle on the existing chain plate (where the T-bolt is now) and run it through the thimble. Then run the cable up against the existing shroud and snug then together with two cable clamps. Electric tape over the bitter end of the new SS cable so you don't get metal slivers in your hand and go sailing until you get the existing part fixed correctly.

 

[PropellerHead]

Here's another thought.. There's plenty of thread left in the strait part of the cable terminal. If I can find a slightly longer version of the swivel on the other end then I can just cut off the bent part of the cable termination. The only thing lost is a little bit of adjustment room... Is there such a thing?

 

[PropellerHead]

Or maybe just a longer turnbuckle body? There's got to be some way to safely and permanently add an inch to the stay....

 

[rgranger]

That might work... a quick google search ... looks like a very common size for 1/4" thread is a 4" body. What size is your body? I did a search for 1/4" x 5" turnbuckle and found this one...

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/f...mpaignId=T9F&gclid=COed-c2Xv88CFUpbhgodWisFvg

So whatever yours is, do a search for one inch longer... Might be a $5 fix if you get lucky

 

[PropellerHead]

How about adding a D Shackle at the toggle end of the turnbuckle? Rating on the shackle is the same or better than the turnbuckle and it would add the necessary inch or so...

 

[CloudDiver]

Well it looks like the swageless fitting isn't an option after all. Turns out it's actually shorter than the swaged version. This is confusing since I thought they were invented for this purpose. Oh Well..

@CloudDiver: I'm not really sure what you're describing. Have a link?

http://www.riggingandhardware.com/p-44422-threaded-t-bolt-toggle-jaw-14-28-rh.aspx

just make sure you choose correct left hand or right hand thread.... $8 makes an easy fix. Having a toggle/jaw at the top gives more flexibility so you wouldn't end up with another bent fitting like that. A 5mm Dyneema shroud is easy to splice, but be aware that some chafe protection will be required where it passes through the spreader tip (you could use 3mm dynemma if your shrouds are 1/8 wire). Also, from what I am aware the aft main shroud is supposed to be outside the lifeline and the forward lower shroud inboard, which it is in your pic so its hard figure out why that thing bent in the first place.

 

[PropellerHead]

I'm sorry but I still don't follow. Are you suggesting I replace the 5/32 stainless shroud with Dneema and then splice an eye at the end that would go into the toggle on top of the turnbuckle? How would the Dyneema shroud attach to the mast? The fitting at the top is another thing all together.

 

[PropellerHead]

Talked to a rep from www.riggingandhardware.com. He sounded like he knew what he was talking about. Shot down my D-Shackle idea right away. Something about point loads vs some other kind of load.. blah blah. . But, I wasn't far off. I can still just trim off the bent part of the stud but use one of these instead of a shackle:

http://www.riggingandhardware.com/p-44537-rigging-toggles-14-pin.aspx

This looks like the way to go.

 

[rgranger]

We have a winner

 

[CloudDiver]

I'm sorry but I still don't follow. Are you suggesting I replace the 5/32 stainless shroud with Dneema and then splice an eye at the end that would go into the toggle on top of the turnbuckle? How would the Dyneema shroud attach to the mast? The fitting at the top is another thing all together.

Yes... Dyneema is stronger than steel and will stretch less. Splicing an eye is free vs. $12 to $15 each swage fitting. Yes, the fitting on the mast may be different, if it is a T-bolt there is a particular fitting that allows splicing line and has a stem ball or T on the end... I can't remember what the common name is for it. My shrouds pin in between tangs that are through bolted, so an eye splice with a thimble is all that is required.

 

[PropellerHead]

Talked to a rep from www.riggingandhardware.com. He sounded like he knew what he was talking about. Shot down my D-Shackle idea right away. Something about point loads vs some other kind of load.. blah blah. . But, I wasn't far off. I can still just trim off the bent part of the stud but use one of these instead of a shackle:

http://www.riggingandhardware.com/p-44537-rigging-toggles-14-pin.aspx

This looks like the way to go.