Standing Rigging Replacement Tutorial

[Cpt. Creekbed]

Good thread!!

I think it was you that mentioned...


...using cable clamps to help swage the thimbles. I used...

...them and was able to do it by myself, but a second set of hands would sure help.

Did you find Fisheries Supply to have better pricing than riggingonly.com?

Good info for all of us, thanks,

Sum

Thanks Summer, I stumbled across your blog b4....wish i had your tool & die shop! Can't wait to see what you do with the Endeavour

Best regards, John G

 

[Doc_holiday]

Ok I'll look at what I have tomorrow. The one thing, is that I had cut the single adjuster plates on almost all of the shrouds. This was done out of desperation where I needed extensions for my current shrouds. I really wasn't thinking about future users of these shrouds. Of course the reason I was replacing my shrouds was because I was using my Clipper Marine CM26 mast which is 26.5 feet

Here's a picture of the ends I cut.

I'm not sure if I have all the double parts of the adjuster but will look. I would probably use turnbuckles anyway.

The first pic is a close up of the cut piece, I think the second is of the rear stay

 

[oreana123]

backstay Lower end of adjustable backstay formulated using blue Amsteel and secured at chainplate with snap shackle

 

[oreana123]

backstay arrgh diff w/pics

 

[oreana123]

sidestays I have another set of open body turnbuckles coming to me to replace these closed type.

 

[oreana123]

Masthead

 

[oreana123]

hounds 22 feet from mast base to bolt hole upper sidestay tangs are bolted here jib halyard

 

[oreana123]

spreaders with tangs for side lowers 11 feet from mast base to bolt hole yes my boat is very dirty

 

[THECUSCUS]

The Sta-Lok studs would've been a "cleaner" way to do the lower ends, IMHO. They are easy to install, and don't require any special tools.

 

[Cpt. Creekbed]

spreaders with tangs for side lowers 11 feet from mast base to bolt hole yes my boat is very dirty

Thanks for all the pics and measurements oreana123! These are all a great help.

 

[oreana123]

The Sta-Lok studs would've been a "cleaner" way to do the lower ends, IMHO. They are easy to install, and don't require any special tools.

That does look nice. 2 things about nicopresses: less expensive and easily inspected visually. I have had problems with Sta-locs accomodating variations in wire diameter. One hundred miles from home and the sta-loc barrel would not fit over the wire. Solution- ream barrel just a few thousands to standard wire size. Party town (Mccall idaho) with no machine shop services. Probably never happen again in a hundred years, but what a hassle.

 

[oreana123]

I just got off the phone with the Nico Press people. Their company, the National Telephone Supply Company developed the simple, in-the-field metal cable swaging ability in response to the Government's need to create submarine nets. www.nicopress.com

The strength of a properly assembled nicopress cable and oval will hold aircraft control cable in tension until it breaks. The caveat here is that all materials be mil spec. If non-mil spec materials are used, pull testing is recommended to establish work load limits.

As I look over the web concerning nicopresses, there is incredible amounts of misinformation. Go to the source mil-dtl-83420m dated 2-17-09