Hi all, I'd just like to point out an interesting (and possibly dangerous) method of fatigure that can occure in standing rigging that I discovered as I went over my forestay to replace it. My forestay turnbuckle is inside of a CDI furler, so I don't see it too often. What I discovered was that, while it was cotter ringed in place, somewhere along the line the rotational forces have actually torqued the turnbuckle so hard against the cotter rings that there is a significant amount of deformation where the cotter rings were cutting into the metal of the turnbuckle! Has anybody else seen this?? -Brian
Standing Rigging fatigue
- Thread starter Brian M H23
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Hi all, I'd just like to point out an interesting (and possibly dangerous) method of fatigure that can occure in standing rigging that I discovered as I went over my forestay to replace it. My forestay turnbuckle is inside of a CDI furler, so I don't see it too often. What I discovered was that, while it was cotter ringed in place, somewhere along the line the rotational forces have actually torqued the turnbuckle so hard against the cotter rings that there is a significant amount of deformation where the cotter rings were cutting into the metal of the turnbuckle! Has anybody else seen this?? -Brian
A side note
Does hunter use chromed naval brass or bronze for O.E. turnbuckles? The part of the turnbucke that the CDI sits on and spins has the shint coating worn off, and it appears to be brass or bronze, not solid stainless... which is better?
Does hunter use chromed naval brass or bronze for O.E. turnbuckles? The part of the turnbucke that the CDI sits on and spins has the shint coating worn off, and it appears to be brass or bronze, not solid stainless... which is better?
A side note
Does hunter use chromed naval brass or bronze for O.E. turnbuckles? The part of the turnbucke that the CDI sits on and spins has the shint coating worn off, and it appears to be brass or bronze, not solid stainless... which is better?
Does hunter use chromed naval brass or bronze for O.E. turnbuckles? The part of the turnbucke that the CDI sits on and spins has the shint coating worn off, and it appears to be brass or bronze, not solid stainless... which is better?
Ah, but if only
If only i chose to put this here. I'll admit, I bought the boat with it not knowing any better. I was ok, but once I tried it out in any real wind, I ended up removing it and hanking on the original sail. As for next year..who knows.
If only i chose to put this here. I'll admit, I bought the boat with it not knowing any better. I was ok, but once I tried it out in any real wind, I ended up removing it and hanking on the original sail. As for next year..who knows.
Ah, but if only
If only i chose to put this here. I'll admit, I bought the boat with it not knowing any better. I was ok, but once I tried it out in any real wind, I ended up removing it and hanking on the original sail. As for next year..who knows.
If only i chose to put this here. I'll admit, I bought the boat with it not knowing any better. I was ok, but once I tried it out in any real wind, I ended up removing it and hanking on the original sail. As for next year..who knows.
Something aint right
Brian, something doesn't sound right with that setup. The only moving part of the furler that should be touching any part of the forestay is the plastic luff (forgive me if that is the wrong word - extrusion maybe?) and should only touch the actual wire, the bottom should be above the swaged fitting. The drum shouldn't touch the turnbuckle in any way - including the cotter pins. There are risers (washers) and a sort of U shaped piece at the bottom of the drum to create the clearances. I'm paranoid, about once a month I lift the drum and take a look to make sure everything looks good under there. As far as the turnbuckles, they may be chromed bronze. Check out page six of the Rigging Only catalog (link below). I had all my upper rigging replaced last winter and the replacement turnbuckles were chromed bronze. It doesn't look like the ones I replaced were stainless (I'm guessing they were original). Manny
Brian, something doesn't sound right with that setup. The only moving part of the furler that should be touching any part of the forestay is the plastic luff (forgive me if that is the wrong word - extrusion maybe?) and should only touch the actual wire, the bottom should be above the swaged fitting. The drum shouldn't touch the turnbuckle in any way - including the cotter pins. There are risers (washers) and a sort of U shaped piece at the bottom of the drum to create the clearances. I'm paranoid, about once a month I lift the drum and take a look to make sure everything looks good under there. As far as the turnbuckles, they may be chromed bronze. Check out page six of the Rigging Only catalog (link below). I had all my upper rigging replaced last winter and the replacement turnbuckles were chromed bronze. It doesn't look like the ones I replaced were stainless (I'm guessing they were original). Manny
Something aint right
Brian, something doesn't sound right with that setup. The only moving part of the furler that should be touching any part of the forestay is the plastic luff (forgive me if that is the wrong word - extrusion maybe?) and should only touch the actual wire, the bottom should be above the swaged fitting. The drum shouldn't touch the turnbuckle in any way - including the cotter pins. There are risers (washers) and a sort of U shaped piece at the bottom of the drum to create the clearances. I'm paranoid, about once a month I lift the drum and take a look to make sure everything looks good under there. As far as the turnbuckles, they may be chromed bronze. Check out page six of the Rigging Only catalog (link below). I had all my upper rigging replaced last winter and the replacement turnbuckles were chromed bronze. It doesn't look like the ones I replaced were stainless (I'm guessing they were original). Manny
Brian, something doesn't sound right with that setup. The only moving part of the furler that should be touching any part of the forestay is the plastic luff (forgive me if that is the wrong word - extrusion maybe?) and should only touch the actual wire, the bottom should be above the swaged fitting. The drum shouldn't touch the turnbuckle in any way - including the cotter pins. There are risers (washers) and a sort of U shaped piece at the bottom of the drum to create the clearances. I'm paranoid, about once a month I lift the drum and take a look to make sure everything looks good under there. As far as the turnbuckles, they may be chromed bronze. Check out page six of the Rigging Only catalog (link below). I had all my upper rigging replaced last winter and the replacement turnbuckles were chromed bronze. It doesn't look like the ones I replaced were stainless (I'm guessing they were original). Manny
A lil bit of research
Has showed me that silicon bronze is stronger and less elatic than stainless, while at the same time stainless on bronze makes for a much better thread matchup than stainless on stainless (no galling). So I think i'm going to set aside my shiny new stainless turnbuckle (that looks like it was cast, though advertised forged) and get myself a new forged si bronze turnbuckle. As for the CDI...I think I may be going with a downhaul next season instead.
Has showed me that silicon bronze is stronger and less elatic than stainless, while at the same time stainless on bronze makes for a much better thread matchup than stainless on stainless (no galling). So I think i'm going to set aside my shiny new stainless turnbuckle (that looks like it was cast, though advertised forged) and get myself a new forged si bronze turnbuckle. As for the CDI...I think I may be going with a downhaul next season instead.
A lil bit of research
Has showed me that silicon bronze is stronger and less elatic than stainless, while at the same time stainless on bronze makes for a much better thread matchup than stainless on stainless (no galling). So I think i'm going to set aside my shiny new stainless turnbuckle (that looks like it was cast, though advertised forged) and get myself a new forged si bronze turnbuckle. As for the CDI...I think I may be going with a downhaul next season instead.
Has showed me that silicon bronze is stronger and less elatic than stainless, while at the same time stainless on bronze makes for a much better thread matchup than stainless on stainless (no galling). So I think i'm going to set aside my shiny new stainless turnbuckle (that looks like it was cast, though advertised forged) and get myself a new forged si bronze turnbuckle. As for the CDI...I think I may be going with a downhaul next season instead.
CDI
Im not sure if CDI is the culprit..in fact, i'm very hard pressed to think this. the cotter rings dug into the turnbuckle only in one direction of rotation...the direction the turnbuckle rotates to loosen. Also note that i lubricated the tunbuckle threads - it spun very easily. The forestay tension made the turnbuckle want to spin, the cotter rings did their job- but dug in.
Im not sure if CDI is the culprit..in fact, i'm very hard pressed to think this. the cotter rings dug into the turnbuckle only in one direction of rotation...the direction the turnbuckle rotates to loosen. Also note that i lubricated the tunbuckle threads - it spun very easily. The forestay tension made the turnbuckle want to spin, the cotter rings did their job- but dug in.
CDI
Im not sure if CDI is the culprit..in fact, i'm very hard pressed to think this. the cotter rings dug into the turnbuckle only in one direction of rotation...the direction the turnbuckle rotates to loosen. Also note that i lubricated the tunbuckle threads - it spun very easily. The forestay tension made the turnbuckle want to spin, the cotter rings did their job- but dug in.
Im not sure if CDI is the culprit..in fact, i'm very hard pressed to think this. the cotter rings dug into the turnbuckle only in one direction of rotation...the direction the turnbuckle rotates to loosen. Also note that i lubricated the tunbuckle threads - it spun very easily. The forestay tension made the turnbuckle want to spin, the cotter rings did their job- but dug in.
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