Standing rigging-est. How much.

KandD · May 18, 2011

Our '85 hunter 40 was almost 4K with mechanical fittings. That was materials and labor. The B&R rig is what got us, 34 fittings I think is what our's took. We had that up for a year and a half before dropping the mast for shipping, and we had another rigger help us put it back up. It wasn't all that complicated, just needed diligence. He was good about walking me through everything and watching me do it so I learned.

Getting the original rigging was scary.... so many broken strands and cracked swedges.

EDIT: Next boat I'll do myself just replacing one at a time, but that was the first thing we did when we bought ours. The surveyor said we couldn't hoist the sails until it was done.

John Nantz · May 18, 2011

Step One: Contact http://www.secosouth.com/

The first thing I'd recommend is to contact Jean at http://www.secosouth.com/ with your rigging request. Give them your boat make and model information and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at their quote.

Turnbuckles may or may not be included so indicate your preference.

As a comparison, a couple years ago our rigging with 316ss wire and fittings cost $835 without the turnbuckles and plus shipping.

I'd recommend using Lanocote on the turnbuckle threads.

c_witch · May 19, 2011

Cpt. Jon said:
My boat budget is getting less by the day. My 1980 hunter 30 we bought a couple of years ago is getting a new main and head/sanitation system. Additionally she needs a haul and bottom painting... While we do that, it only makes sense to replace the standing rigging (original), but I have no idea of what this takes...

We drive old cars that I maintain and plan to keep running till their ultimate fate, so I'm at least a little handy. Is replacing the standing rigging a pretty straight forward procedure? This old boat didn't seem to be much help. And what kind of costs am I looking at? Actually, the costs are my first question . What's a good source for the tackle?

Thanks!

We are replacing ours as well. Although we are only a 22 cruiser. The Binicle in Halifax has quoted me 90 cents a foot for wire (ss) and 3 buck each loop and crimp. So I think we are looking at somewhere in the 200 dollar range. I have already bought a number of new ss closed turnbuckles for around 150 or so.

Happy sailing,
Brina
PS I'm going to keep several of the old cables (the best ones) on board coiled up along with a half dozen cable clamps as an emergency back up just in case

Ed Schenck · May 19, 2011

Seco South gets a second from me. I did a lot of shopping before I settled on them. That included buying my own wire and terminals and having my marina build them since they have a swage machine. Six shrouds, forestay, and backstay for a 37-footer were less than $800. including shipping. I did ship one each of a lower, an upper, and the backstay. The forestay is new so they shipped it long without the stud and I will swage it at the marina. Except for the forestay this was just wire and terminal ends. I had my turnbuckles checked and they are not being replaced.

woodster · May 19, 2011

I have posted in some other threads about using my old wire and moveing it around to the next lesser size shroud....and after further inspection and consulting i have found that they are in a grey area of reusing so at this time i am replaceing all the terminals and wire rope and i will be doing this through SECO South as they have the best prices and as others have stated the best service as well it will cost about $550. to do this ....
that is a heck of a lot cheaper that the running rigging would have cost if i hadn't had a good source ......i am with the rest on the standing rigging using SECO for sure.....

regards

woody

dscribner · May 19, 2011

I took my lower shrouds into (hold on) West Marine. I paid $80 for the pair. I replaced my backstay a few months earlier but I went to a local sail loft. I paid $90 for that. My mast is about 28' tall on my 25' boat. You can probably interpolate cost from that. I guess the real question is "Are you replacing all the hardware too?" If not, you can buy the wire by the foot and buy StaLok (sp) fittings. Being handy, they're supposed to be easy to install and as strong as proffessionaly swaged ends. There are instalation videos on line.

Fair Winds

Don

Steve Dion · May 19, 2011

Don:

WM charges more for the materials than Seco charges for a completed assembly.

zeehag · May 19, 2011

find good wire at a place that sells the stuff--- get the ends fastened and do it yourself for less than 400 dollars. make sure the tangs are also replaced. might wanna check your chainplates for integrity as well. doesnt matter the size of boat-- also may wanna go up a size or 2 in the wire diameter as well if you plan on sailing at all. wind has a great strength.
my ericson 35 was to be done with an estimate of 1200 dollars, family rate by some rigging co in sd-- but i havent gotten her done as yet. the previous owner of my formosa pid 10k to rerig my formosa when he was in lost angeles.. so prices WILL vary.
if you want to sail and enjoy boat-- donot go with highest bid...duh-- go for the learning experience and sail more and farther.

tommays · May 19, 2011

J24 700 dollars

Cal 29 all 316 wire and swags new pins and 9 open body bronze 1100

NYSail · May 19, 2011

Seco South .... real great people and a fabulous price. 50 feet 3/8 forestay with a turnbuckle little over $200.... I used a Sta-lok for the eye that came with my new Schaefer 2100.