Stanchion "brace" weld repair
- Thread starter forbin
- Start date
In Everett I use NwRailmakers
http://www.railmakersnw.com/
Fair pricing, fast turnaround, quality work have been my experience.
http://www.railmakersnw.com/
Fair pricing, fast turnaround, quality work have been my experience.
Ditto John's recommendations. They do quality work at a reasonable price in my experience.
Any hints on getting that screw out? So far, nothing has worked. It's a stainless screw and the toe rail is anodized aluminum. I'm guessing it was just threaded in to the rail and not further, but I don't know for sure. I've tried multiple screwdrivers with varying degrees of leverage, a manual impact driver, I've soaked it with Corrosion X, and yesterday I freed the plate it's holding down so hopefully some Corrosion X can make it's way to the screw. I'm hesitant to use heat because I don't want to damage the resin/glass accidentally. I'm going to borrow a powerful impact driver but having already hit it pretty hard with a hammer I have a feeling that'll just break the head off...but I'm running out of options!
Hi Forbin, always a problem when you have fasteners of differing metals, especially between SS and aluminum. The SS fasteners on our aluminum toe rail are through bolted, so not a problem here. Hopefully, your solution will work.
Usually the impact wrench does the job when I've used it, but matters become more complicated if the head shears off. At that point you can drill out the old bolt and install one oversized. Or if you drill out just the bolt shank, you can use a tap to ream out the old thread material and use the same sized bolt as before.
Usually the impact wrench does the job when I've used it, but matters become more complicated if the head shears off. At that point you can drill out the old bolt and install one oversized. Or if you drill out just the bolt shank, you can use a tap to ream out the old thread material and use the same sized bolt as before.
Given its size and appearant purpose I suspect it is either through bolted or screwed into a metal backing plate.
Hopefully I'll be able to report back tomight. I have a feeling the head will shear off so I'll probably be dealing with that next!
I think it's the latter. I can't access the interior in that area without cutting an access panel but one of the other ones came out without issue so I don't think it's got a nut on the hidden end.
Wasn't able to borrow the impact driver tonight but I did manage to get the screw out of a different base plate (needed to re seal it anyway) and it's just a normal screw about 3/4 inch, so nothing too crazy. I put some more Corrosion X on it and I'll get the impact driver later this week.
If you haven't tried the impact driver you hit with a hammer they work great. http://m.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
I bought one just for this, unfortunately it didn't work either, but I was really sure it was going to when I bought it!
Really dislike Harbor Freight tools, but that is just me. The times that I have used my SnapOn impact driver it has been very effective. One consideration; alternate first between tighten and then loosen. See if that helps after a few tries. By screw, I'm assuming you mean machined rather than wood type?
I got this one from Amazon. It feels like really good quality.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDRG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't tried tighten then loosen, but I will. It's a machine screw, Phillips, pan head.
Hi Forbin, yes it does look to be of good quality and made in the USA. I'm not familiar with Corrosion X. I've had good luck with Liquid Wrench; let it soak, strike alternating a few times, more soak, more alternating strikes. Persistence and patience pays off. Hopefully, it will for you, too. Please let us know the outcome.
Well, a non-manual impact driver was able to get the screw out!!! I'm really surprised the manual one got nowhere and this seemed to work relatively easily. I'll probably suck it up and buy a powered one next time I need it.
Now it could be a long soak time in Corrision X but I'm giving credit to the impact driver as I didn't see much evidence that any of the Corrosion X actually made it to the corroded area.
Now going to get the weld done and start researching thread tapping...
Thanks for all the input!
Now it could be a long soak time in Corrision X but I'm giving credit to the impact driver as I didn't see much evidence that any of the Corrosion X actually made it to the corroded area.
Now going to get the weld done and start researching thread tapping...
Thanks for all the input!
Ditto my driver., Les.
Nice job Forbin. If at first you don't succeed, try, try,... And what do you mean a non-manual impact driver? Electric, air!?