This is my first season with a diesel engine. I always used a gas stabilizer for the fuel with my old Atomic 4. I went to the West Marine site and found a variety of products ranging from $8 to $30 all claiming to be diesel fuel stabilizers. The price range was even within the same manufacturer's product line. Any recommendations on what to do and what product to use?
Stabilizer for diesel during haul out
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I have always used the Power Service brand that is available at Wal-Mart. There is nothing "Marine-Special" about this stabilizer.
I can't tell you if it is really required, but I've just always used it.
I can't tell you if it is really required, but I've just always used it.
20+ years on 4 boats, never used a "stabilizer". Fill your tank to minimize condensation.
Because I have a 1978 Westerbeke and only get fuel from a busy diesel station and I wonder about the low sulfur diesel fuel that big brother has introduced to the public the sulfur lubricates the fuel injector pump so a shop recommended a product called Stanadyne which a few diesel mechanics also recommended and I fill the tank in the fall and in the spring it fires right up and never had a problem even before I used the additive
http://www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=45
http://www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=45
Practical Sailor ( www.practical-sailor.com ) did a comprehensive evaluation of diesel additives and marine fuel storage challenges in the August 2013 issue. I would recommend that you subscribe, because PS is a great source of intel and real-world testing. They determined that one of the least expensive additives is the best, and that a cocktail of two was a good choice. They also provide recommendations that will allow you to determine what is going on in your tank and which concerns you need to address.
the new low sulfer fuels have way less lubricity in them and most of the good brands of conditioners have the added lubricity to keep it running smooth for a long time.... its more importent to use a conditioner now than it was 15 years ago, but still not a requirement.
a good pump will run a long time without before it starts giving troubles, but a pump that has seen a long life can really benefit from the conditioner...
and the fresh pump can stay fresh longer by using it.... you will never know that you should have used it until the $1800 pump rebuild and they tell you it was wore out, and to prevent it from happening again you should use a fuel conditioner.
a good conditioner is not qualified by price.... the lucas brand is a good affordable one that has been around for years.... stanadyne is excellent but a bit more money.
there are other good brands also but these two im very familier with.
if it hasnt been used in awhile in the system, a double dose can help remove any gum or varnish from the metering rods and help clean the injectors but using more than the recommended dosage during the routine fuel up does you no good....
a proper fuel conditioner/injector system cleaner is good for a gas engine also, but the "heet" type products that claims to remove water from the tank, is a terrible additive. it should never be used UNLESS, you are either going to siphon the tank and discard the contaminated fuel, or you are going to run the tank dry within the next few hours and refill with fresh gas, as it can gel up if left to sit very long.
a good pump will run a long time without before it starts giving troubles, but a pump that has seen a long life can really benefit from the conditioner...
and the fresh pump can stay fresh longer by using it.... you will never know that you should have used it until the $1800 pump rebuild and they tell you it was wore out, and to prevent it from happening again you should use a fuel conditioner.
a good conditioner is not qualified by price.... the lucas brand is a good affordable one that has been around for years.... stanadyne is excellent but a bit more money.
there are other good brands also but these two im very familier with.
if it hasnt been used in awhile in the system, a double dose can help remove any gum or varnish from the metering rods and help clean the injectors but using more than the recommended dosage during the routine fuel up does you no good....
a proper fuel conditioner/injector system cleaner is good for a gas engine also, but the "heet" type products that claims to remove water from the tank, is a terrible additive. it should never be used UNLESS, you are either going to siphon the tank and discard the contaminated fuel, or you are going to run the tank dry within the next few hours and refill with fresh gas, as it can gel up if left to sit very long.
I'm on my 3rd sailboat. I have always used some sort of fuel conditioner. A friend who was a long haul truck driver and now a mechanic said the Howes Diesel Treatment is the best to use. That's what I use now.
Diesel fuel treatment
I second the idea of getting a subscription to Practical Sailor. I am using, as they suggest, Biobor JF and StarBrite StarTron Enzyme. I also have a Desiccant vent filter on order.
Just slapped myself in the head. I am (and have been for many years) a subscriber to PS. Not sure how I missed the article. Thanks to everyone for their advice! As always, there is quite a range of recommendations, including doing nothing!
I've found that the simplest way to deal with this is to use injector cleaner in the new fuel filter when I change filters.
"second the idea of getting a subscription to Practical Sailor"
I just sent in my subscription card yesterday. You guys are making me feel like a genius.
I just sent in my subscription card yesterday. You guys are making me feel like a genius.
that is a better quality fuel because its exempt from the epa regulations that apply to the fuels that are readily available for marine use and road use.
but its not a feasible alternative for most people for several reasons....
a fuel conditioner is. its cheaper and it all runs the same when its all clean and lubricated properly.
water vapor can condensate in a tank with jet fuel in it and begin to degrade it, and algea can grow in it also, so either way, a conditioner is a good practise.
I would agree. Though it is a more highly refined stream it is also considerably lower in viscocity. Yup, it will run fine in diesels, for a time.
This, from Shell:
http://www.shell.com/global/product...nowledge-centre/technical-talk/techart19.html
"Firstly it has much less lubricity than diesel fuel. As Jet is a lighter fraction than diesel, it is much less "oily" and so, whereas road diesel engines commonly use the fuel to lubricate parts like the fuel pump, this is not a practical proposition when using Jet fuel. This is a problem that we commonly see when people have been running airfield bowsers on jet fuel - the engine will run, but soon the fuel pump will fail."
There is a movement towards diesels in small aircraft. Low Lead Gasoline based AVGas is difficult to find in some parts of the world and there is pressure to eliminate it here. Continental just purchased bankrupt Thielert (they us a 2L Mercedes auto engine as a base), and Cessna has started offering an SMA Diesel in their 182. They all use Jet A. How they manage the lubricity issue I have no idea, but some of these engines have been around for almost ten years now.
That being said, why bother. Jet A has slightly less energy per squirt (about 1.5%), which translates into shorter range and about 7-8 cents per gallon higher cost to achieve the same energy value. I can buy additives all day long from just about anywhere.
That being said, why bother. Jet A has slightly less energy per squirt (about 1.5%), which translates into shorter range and about 7-8 cents per gallon higher cost to achieve the same energy value. I can buy additives all day long from just about anywhere.
Diesel fuel that is *open to the atmosphere* most definitely needs a stabilizer plus
'biocide'; especially in those cases where historical tank contamination/fouling is or has been noted.
The very best way to 'store' diesel fuel in a boat with regard to 'water uptake/condensation', biological contamination/growth and chemical stability is to REMOVE/DRAIN it, ...... take it home and burn it in your home 'oil burner'.
An empty tank will not 'accumulate water', the growth of the typical 'fungals' (species that form 'resins' on the tank walls) will be at a minimum; a full (topped off) tank will 'uptake' water until complete 'water saturation' (from the atmosphere) is attained.
If you cant or dont want to remove most ALL the oil, then a stabilizer/biocide should be added.
'biocide'; especially in those cases where historical tank contamination/fouling is or has been noted.
The very best way to 'store' diesel fuel in a boat with regard to 'water uptake/condensation', biological contamination/growth and chemical stability is to REMOVE/DRAIN it, ...... take it home and burn it in your home 'oil burner'.
An empty tank will not 'accumulate water', the growth of the typical 'fungals' (species that form 'resins' on the tank walls) will be at a minimum; a full (topped off) tank will 'uptake' water until complete 'water saturation' (from the atmosphere) is attained.
If you cant or dont want to remove most ALL the oil, then a stabilizer/biocide should be added.
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