you might also be having the transducer binding when it's in the thru hull - the tabs that hold the wheel are pretty flexible and if bent in only slightly can cause the paddlewheel to stick
My housing is also plastic but the backing plate/flange that holds/screws the housing to the hull is ( I hate spellcheckers "ferule" ) is called a "ferrule" and mine is made of brass. If you don't have your ST60+ manual, try....The housing is plastic so there shouldn't be any corrosion issue
Interesting! OTOH, the last fail, I ran it for 35KM / 5 hours and it did not respond. Geesh. Good for the hunt and I'll add it into the bag. Thanks.I was told once that an air bubble could be caught by the paddle wheel and keep it from turning. Mine sometimes needs to have 6 knots of water under the keel before it wakes up. Then its good at any speed. However I did find that my paddle wheel was for high speed not the low speed wheel. I was happier when I didn't know. All U Get
Ok did it look like the install diagram from your ST manual , with only one half of the wheel protruding below the intact backing flange/nut on the thru hull?It spun freely and indicated at the station OK. There was no flap hanging down and the area around the through-hull seemed clear (although I did clear a small piece of growth off the flange in front of the wheel)
I am not trying to be a pest, but it is the amount of wheel exposed to the "current of water" flow by the wheel.It did look correctly orientated.
Not a pest! Thanks for the thoughts. It did look correct in terms of the area of the wheel that was protruding. I'll check it out next time I'm there. Thanks again for the suggestion.I am not trying to be a pest, but it is the amount of wheel exposed to the "current of water" flow by the wheel.
A fully exposed wheel, to the flow of water, will NOT spin.
Only half of wheel should dip below the ferrule and expose itself to water flow.
If the wheel protrudes into the water flow beyond its install point, then No proper Spin!
Obviously this protrusion can't be perfectly mid way on the wheel axis.
So...
You must adjust by....
Calibration...
But if...
The wheel is too much out below hull surface line then erratic behavior and no calibration
Jim...
Although it seems to spin freely, that sounds like a good idea. I'll order one. Thanks.Hey,
I had a similar problem last year. In my case the paddle wheel would spin freely by hand, but had some resistance and didn't register in the water. I bought a new wheel (which came with a new pin, o rings, etc.) and that solved the problem. After seeing the difference in how easily the wheel spun on the new shaft vs old shaft I used some sandpaper on the old shaft and now the old wheel works too.
My suggestion is to buy a new wheel and / or lightly sand the old shaft. The new wheel would spin when I blew on it, the old wheel would not (before sanding the shaft).
Barry