I acquired a Hunter 34 with this unit. When not on engine, it gives me a low battery warning within about 5-15 minutes. Seas were less than 1 foot all times. I replaced the batteries (two Grp 31 deep cycles), but even when left on the "both" position, the Autohelm still dies out after a short time. Only solution I found is to start up the engine. Ideas?
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Check your wiring.
Scott: I'd check the wiring and the wiring instructions. When we got our Navico unit, they recommended that we hook the Autopilot to the instrument breaker (not exactly sure why either). You could have some type of resistance from having the wrong size wire, a loose connection or who know what. There has been posts on this problem in the past (as I remember), so try the archives too. Make sure that your batteries are really topped off too.
Scott: I'd check the wiring and the wiring instructions. When we got our Navico unit, they recommended that we hook the Autopilot to the instrument breaker (not exactly sure why either). You could have some type of resistance from having the wrong size wire, a loose connection or who know what. There has been posts on this problem in the past (as I remember), so try the archives too. Make sure that your batteries are really topped off too.
J
Jim Oursler
ST4000 low bat ? -check wiring first
Don't know whether in fresh or salt water, but would suspect a corroded connection. Either wiring to battery or control unit to wheel controller. Wiring at wheel was encased at the factory. My control head on H34 was close enough that no splicing was needed, so first user serviceable screw up area would be to recheck all connections at control head. First measure the 12V lead at head. Then, follow supply wires from head back to battery. The 4000 has a current limiting 5 amp fuse inline, installed by user, and typically draws .5 to 1.5 amps while tending(turning)helm, and 60 MA in standby.. so it would take 10 hours to suck the battery down. But if you have a bad connection, or prior owner installed with small wire, high resistance would show up at the unit as low battery voltage. Spec is that low bat alarm comes on at 10 /-.5 volts, which is a well drained battery. I think that if you measure your battery bank you will find that you have plenty of juice, so then feret out the bad connection. By the way. wire specs for ST 4000 are 18AWG 8 ft, 16AWG 13 ft, 14AWG 22 ft. On the back of the control head, you will find the wires to check labeled: 12V - (2 wires) and Drive (2 wires)
Don't know whether in fresh or salt water, but would suspect a corroded connection. Either wiring to battery or control unit to wheel controller. Wiring at wheel was encased at the factory. My control head on H34 was close enough that no splicing was needed, so first user serviceable screw up area would be to recheck all connections at control head. First measure the 12V lead at head. Then, follow supply wires from head back to battery. The 4000 has a current limiting 5 amp fuse inline, installed by user, and typically draws .5 to 1.5 amps while tending(turning)helm, and 60 MA in standby.. so it would take 10 hours to suck the battery down. But if you have a bad connection, or prior owner installed with small wire, high resistance would show up at the unit as low battery voltage. Spec is that low bat alarm comes on at 10 /-.5 volts, which is a well drained battery. I think that if you measure your battery bank you will find that you have plenty of juice, so then feret out the bad connection. By the way. wire specs for ST 4000 are 18AWG 8 ft, 16AWG 13 ft, 14AWG 22 ft. On the back of the control head, you will find the wires to check labeled: 12V - (2 wires) and Drive (2 wires)
J
Jim Oursler
Voltage check only valid when driving wheel
Almost forgot.. a static voltage check of 12 V wiring at control head may not show a faulty wire connection/high resistance area, as voltage drop increases proportionally with current draw. You might also bypass all your wiring and run brief test, putting fused 12 V from batt direct to control head. CAUTION- Do not apply 12 V direct to drive unit.
Almost forgot.. a static voltage check of 12 V wiring at control head may not show a faulty wire connection/high resistance area, as voltage drop increases proportionally with current draw. You might also bypass all your wiring and run brief test, putting fused 12 V from batt direct to control head. CAUTION- Do not apply 12 V direct to drive unit.
J
jim oursler
starting engine gives an extra 0.8-1.5 volts
Almost forgot.. in answer to your question of why it works when you start the engine.. the alternator charges above the steady state voltage of the battery.. so you get enough extra oomph ot overcome the wiring problem to the control head on the ST4000
Almost forgot.. in answer to your question of why it works when you start the engine.. the alternator charges above the steady state voltage of the battery.. so you get enough extra oomph ot overcome the wiring problem to the control head on the ST4000
J
jim oursler
starting engine gives an extra 0.8-1.5 volts
Almost forgot.. in answer to your question of why it works when you start the engine.. the alternator charges above the steady state voltage of the battery.. so you get enough extra oomph to overcome the wiring problem to the control head on the ST4000 . If memory serves me, alternator charges at 13.8 to 14.5 dependent upon setting, and batteries top off at 12.7-13 depending upon type.. wet or gel. Now of course, you could have alternator voltage set for gel when system charges at lower wet setting, but that is a last last possible problem. You are by the low bat indicator dropping about 2 volts between battery and control head when head is under load of a moving wheel actuator.
Almost forgot.. in answer to your question of why it works when you start the engine.. the alternator charges above the steady state voltage of the battery.. so you get enough extra oomph to overcome the wiring problem to the control head on the ST4000 . If memory serves me, alternator charges at 13.8 to 14.5 dependent upon setting, and batteries top off at 12.7-13 depending upon type.. wet or gel. Now of course, you could have alternator voltage set for gel when system charges at lower wet setting, but that is a last last possible problem. You are by the low bat indicator dropping about 2 volts between battery and control head when head is under load of a moving wheel actuator.
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